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Old 01-09-2012, 02:22 PM   #256
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Try moving the front upper arm back (more caster). Also check your front droop, make sure it is 0 or +1. Are the front axles in the center or are you using the eccentric cups with the axles in the lower position?
You can try raising the rear upper link or moving it to the outside hole, and you should try these regardless, one at a time, but I don't think either is the solution.
What size tires are you using front and rear?
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:29 PM   #257
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And congrats to Chris Verano for winning the 'Jack Holmes 80th Bday' race here in LA this past weekend with his RS, first race of the year.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:40 PM   #258
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And congrats to Chris Verano for winning the 'Jack Holmes 80th Bday' race here in LA this past weekend with his RS, first race of the year.
Thanks Garen..Car was really good this weekend.
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:11 PM   #259
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Xtreme888, one more thing I forgot to ask, have you flipped the front knuckles left to right? We have been running the front knuckles left on the right and vice versa. This changes the kingpin angle from negative to positive (moves the upper pivot ball from outside of the lower pivot ball to the inside of the lower pivot ball) and seems to make the car easier to drive, with more and predictable steering. The new RS2 knuckles give you this option. You can actually adjust the angle in 0.4mm increments and go even steeper into the positive.
If you flip the knuckles, grind the inner lower lip of the openings where the pivot ball threads through to allow proper suspension travel.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:16 AM   #260
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hi...the setup was the same as on your setup guide for the RS. The car was excellent on low speed and on the chicane. On power sweepers were a problem. Enter first half of curve fine off power fine as soon as on power the car go wide. Dont want to change too much as the traction and handling is spot on apart from on power sweepers. Hence was thinking of raising the outer upper rear link with more shims; or moving to outside hole of the rear upper hub (less camber change ). Would overdrive (changing the front side pulley ) make alot of different to on power steering ? Any suggestions please.
Had the same problem with mine last weekend. In the middle of the corner it start driffting wide. Well here is what I did to fix it:
1. Harder springs front and rear (mine was REALLY soft)
2. Thicker oil in front shocks
3. Lowered the angle of the front and rear shocks (move the top of the shock to lower holes)
4. Increased my toe-out a bit to 1 deg (was only running 0.5 deg toe out)
5. 1.5 mm shims under the steering arm ball

This caused a major improvement - but I'm not totally satisfied with it yet. I made the following changes yesterday and will test them soon:

1. Front track width increased. (Should reduce the weight transfer from side to side and increase the lateral grip)
2. Lowered the position lower rear link. (Should raise the roll centre and cause less roll in the back)
3. Lowered the rear shocks even further
4. Moved both the front and rear wheels forward to assist with the weight transfer to the front wheels.

Hope this helps
Faan
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:28 AM   #261
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Xtreme888, one more thing I forgot to ask, have you flipped the front knuckles left to right? We have been running the front knuckles left on the right and vice versa. This changes the kingpin angle from negative to positive (moves the upper pivot ball from outside of the lower pivot ball to the inside of the lower pivot ball) and seems to make the car easier to drive, with more and predictable steering. The new RS2 knuckles give you this option. You can actually adjust the angle in 0.4mm increments and go even steeper into the positive.
If you flip the knuckles, grind the inner lower lip of the openings where the pivot ball threads through to allow proper suspension travel.
Hi Garen,

Just want to check if the front upright were reversed (front left on right and vice versa ) then the steering rods would rub against the upper arms...is that correct ? If so that was how the car came and that was the way i was running it. After checking...found the lower lips were causing suspension to not full travel, hence grinded some plastic away.

Flipped the uprights round now, and the upright with the upside down letter L is now on the gear box side and the steering arms are lower .

Which one which ?

In what way handling is changed if upright reversed from original position ? if reversed would that mean more low speed steering and less high speed steering ?

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:50 AM   #262
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Put the left knuckle on the right side of the car and the right on the left side of the car. The steering links will pretty much be in the same location as they were.

I'll try to post a photo of where we grind the front upper arms later today.

By running the left knuckle on the right side and vice versa you change the king pin inclination angle. Google search 'king pin inclination' and read away and look at the 5th small photo on the left here: http://www.motonica.com/en/products/P81-RS2_22

By having the upper pivot ball closer to the car (what is referred to as positive kp angle in full size cars) the steering seems to be smoother and on our tracks here in the US, the lap times are faster. It's not so much more or less low speed or high speed steering, it seems to drive more predictable at all speeds.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:06 PM   #263
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Just wanted to say that I ran the Motonica at for the first time at last weekend's GLARC race for the A main. THE CAR FELT GREAT!! a major improvement over the shepherd. I have nothing but good things to say about this car... can't wait to get my kit
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:35 AM   #264
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The above shows where to grind the arms. If you run the angled ball ends on the outer steering links, you won't need to grind the inner portion of the arm, where the hinge pin goes through the arm.





The above shows the angled ball end. Also note the shim under the ball stud in the ball end. I run these shims on all 4 ball studs and this is something I have been experimenting with. You can't quite tell, but that is the left side knuckle on the right side of the car and vice versa.





The above shows the suspension compressed. The arms are so thick, don't worry about grinding on them, you won't break them because of that.



Tires anyone?
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:39 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIPMOTORSPORTS View Post
Just wanted to say that I ran the Motonica at for the first time at last weekend's GLARC race for the A main. THE CAR FELT GREAT!! a major improvement over the shepherd. I have nothing but good things to say about this car... can't wait to get my kit
You are welcome, and you forgot to mention that I handed you my radio only minutes before your main and that was the first time you ever drove my car. Your lap times were faster than in qualifying.
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:17 PM   #266
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Very cool looking car.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:21 PM   #267
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Garen...

Thank for photos. Think problem with on power understeer was that the arms were not grinded. Hence will keep you inform of the progress after testing again on Sunday.
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Old 01-12-2012, 03:27 PM   #268
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if needed... a steal here

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...inum-case.html
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #269
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On power understeer should have nothing to do with the grinding shown in the photo. Try the other things I mentioned and see if any of them help. Also, if you are not already, change the front hub bushings to the eccentrics to lower the front axles in the front knuckles.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:56 PM   #270
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First batch of RS2 upgrade kits arriving next week.
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