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Old 07-12-2004, 08:18 AM   #16
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The car doesn't matter the principle is still the same
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by frozenpod
The car doesn't matter the principle is still the same
The car does matter when it comes to over/under drive.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:30 AM   #18
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There has been a couple Tamya off road electics

And one on road electric that was a bucket of shit and I don't remember what is was. I think I try over/under drive on this car but I experimented a lot with the off road. I always seemed great at home in the drive way and at the BMX track but when compared to other cars at the track I just could drive as hard went back to standard and could drive much harder and faster.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:38 AM   #19
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I wasn't trying get on your case about the whole over/under drive thing.
It works best on belt drive cars with a front one-way and foam tires.
It's mainly used to get the tires to wear more evenly.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:41 AM   #20
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If the car is setup correctly with the right tyre choice the tyres should wear evenly If they don't then the track has either very poor grip or very abrasive serface or the setup is bad.

I have seen well setup cars chew rear tyres on very abrasive tracks when the grip is low.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by frozenpod
If the car is setup correctly with the right tyre choice the tyres should wear evenly If they don't then the track has either very poor grip or very abrasive serface or the setup is bad.

I have seen well setup cars chew rear tyres on very abrasive tracks when the grip is low.
Yes right ONLY if you could make all the tires load all the same at all corners. Try to conform that with 4x digital scales. Same tires size with 0 under/overdrive (1:1 ratio) is design for the same tire size both F/R. When you have under/overdrive beside 0, what did you try to achieve? I think that was PSI tried to say or is not?
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:51 AM   #22
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Nothing is practice is ideal but I still try to be as close as possible.
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Yes right ONLY if you could make all the tires load all the same at all corners. Try to conform that with 4x digital scales. Same tires size with 0 under/overdrive (1:1 ratio) is design for the same tire size both F/R. When you have under/overdrive beside 0, what did you try to achieve? I think that was PSI tried to say or is not?
Thanks for the help Pyramid.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by frozenpod
If the car is setup correctly with the right tyre choice the tyres should wear evenly If they don't then the track has either very poor grip or very abrasive serface or the setup is bad.

I have seen well setup cars chew rear tyres on very abrasive tracks when the grip is low.
That's not necessarily true.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
That's not necessarily true.
this conversation can go for ever
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
this conversation can go for ever
I was thinking the same thing.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
I was thinking the same thing.
some get it some dont
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:26 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
some get it some dont
Do you want a shot at it?
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:32 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Do you want a shot at it?
no i already did the over and under with my 710 i know what you mean!
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:01 AM   #30
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Exclamation Belt Vs. Shaft

Here is the most detailed diffrences that I can give you.
The advantages of a shaft driven car is that it is more closely to a direct drive then a belt. A shaft can't stretch our or skip. You can still use a center and front one way with both belt and shaft. The biggest disadvantage with the shaft is torque steer. You don't notice it that much in stock and spec 19T mod, but the few times I have ran a 10 single mod motor in my TC3 if I pulled to hard on the throttle during initial acceleration the car would wonder slightly between the torque steer and me trying to compensate for it.
As far as the belts go, the only advantage I have seen is that they tend to be a little more balanced, and this is from how the motor is installed in the car. With a belt set up, typicly the "Torque wieght" will lean between the front and rear of the car. With a drive the torque wieght will lean side to side, and that is what causes tourqe steer. As far as maintence is conserned, belts usually have more things that can go wrong. See, with a belt you have to make sure it is at the proper tension. Too lose the belt will skip and slip, and the action is like doing a burny.....the tires are moving so fast that your speedometer is reading at 40 mph but your doing maybe 3. so thearetically, the belt is spinning at 20 mph, but the pulleys at the axles arent moving. If you set the belt too tight, then it's causing too much drag and slowing your car down, plus making your eletcronics work harder then it needs to and causing them to get too hot. As with a shaft, they typicly "float" in thier out drives, much in the same manner as the CVD's on the inside part of your car where it meets the out drive.
The only 4wd cars I have are T-maxx, E-maxx, and a TC3. I prefure the drive shaft because of it's reliabilaty. Iv'e seen a few belts on X-rays and Losi's during a race, as well as belts being too lose or too tight and that's what turned me on to the shaft driven car. That's why you see all 1/8 scale buggies are shaft driven, the belt wouldn't handle all that power!!! I may try the XXX4 as soon I get some funds up, but if Associated comes out with thier 1/10 4wd buggy before then I'll get that instead since I'm sure it will be shaft driven. I hope I shown some light on your issues there.
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