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Old 06-04-2011, 02:25 AM   #571
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whats the last hudy optional part? i cannot read it all, thanks
Xray = Hudy , thats why......
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:10 AM   #572
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whats the last hudy optional part? i cannot read it all, thanks
104414
for HUDY STAR-BOX
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:37 AM   #573
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Pop quiz! So how many pieces of options and how much they are in total?
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:02 AM   #574
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More than the car for sure!
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:31 AM   #575
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i have not added them up. thanks for the info.
are there any other cars, say 1/8 in the market having more factory(direct subsitituion) options than this rx8? i am very curious.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:10 AM   #576
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whats the last hudy optional part? i cannot read it all, thanks
http://www.redrc.net/2011/06/hudy-st...onversion-set/
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:37 AM   #577
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I like he basic, no options in my car. Everyone will back to basic similar to NT-1, the optional metal parts are easy to deform. Why people buy RX8, coz of the plastic
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:56 AM   #578
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hey if any nt1 or rx8 guys want to swap my new red clutch shoe for a new yellow, we can swap pm me..
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:07 PM   #579
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Default Wheel bearing bushing melting

Anyone? I found the concentric and eccentric bushing melt, the wheel axle losing, anyway to keep the bushing cool? The bearing I think too hot during the race.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:12 PM   #580
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Anyone? I found the concentric and eccentric bushing melt, the wheel axle losing, anyway to keep the bushing cool? The bearing I think too hot during the race.
Looks like the bearing ran dry because of a lack of lubricant. Sometimes, Xray's bearing comes dry without any oil. The very same problem happened to me on a T2008. Make sure there's enough inside each bearing and re-oil periodicaly too.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:28 PM   #581
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We finally got to run our RX8 this past weekend at the Midwest Series Race in Portage Indiana. Loran had never run 8th scale before but the car made it look almost easy. I used the kit set up except I used a yellow clutch shoe. The car was pretty good right out of the box. This was a parking lot track so I think softer springs would help it a little but all in all we are very impressed with the car. I asked Loran how she liked 8th scale and her comment was "it's awesome". Next up the Byron Challenge.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:58 PM   #582
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Looks like the bearing ran dry because of a lack of lubricant. Sometimes, Xray's bearing comes dry without any oil. The very same problem happened to me on a T2008. Make sure there's enough inside each bearing and re-oil periodicaly too.
It brand new bearings with well lub already, I use more bearing oil to lub it as well. No help to reduce melting T___T
Just wait for the metal bushing options or buy few more set bushing for my parts box
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:59 PM   #583
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We finally got to run our RX8 this past weekend at the Midwest Series Race in Portage Indiana. Loran had never run 8th scale before but the car made it look almost easy. I used the kit set up except I used a yellow clutch shoe. The car was pretty good right out of the box. This was a parking lot track so I think softer springs would help it a little but all in all we are very impressed with the car. I asked Loran how she liked 8th scale and her comment was "it's awesome". Next up the Byron Challenge.
Use R15B body, you don't have to worry about the handling.
I use the Mugen grey on front and Xray Red (hard) at rear same on bumpy track. Fantastic with R15B body!!!
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:26 PM   #584
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It brand new bearings with well lub already, I use more bearing oil to lub it as well. No help to reduce melting T___T
Just wait for the metal bushing options or buy few more set bushing for my parts box
Well, did this melting trouble happen on one side only or both at once ?
My suggestions:
- Make sure every bearing still has a nice and smooth action.
- Make sure the lube truely goes inside the bearing, underneath the rubber seal. I use the very edge of a hobby knife to "guide" the lube in, between the inner ring and the seal.
- Make sure the wheel shaft doesn't show abnormal play on the bearings, which may drive the inner rings to stay immobile and the wheel shaft spinning in with no real (or intermittent) bearing movement which may create over heat.
-Make sure the wheel shaft has a little axial play in the bushings. The wheel shaft (without wheel) must spin freely. Disconnect the CVD if necessary. At least, check the spinning when the inner dog-bone is not inside the oneway drive shaft.

Hope you will find the "why" out.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:35 AM   #585
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Well, did this melting trouble happen on one side only or both at once ?
My suggestions:
- Make sure every bearing still has a nice and smooth action.
- Make sure the lube truely goes inside the bearing, underneath the rubber seal. I use the very edge of a hobby knife to "guide" the lube in, between the inner ring and the seal.
- Make sure the wheel shaft doesn't show abnormal play on the bearings, which may drive the inner rings to stay immobile and the wheel shaft spinning in with no real (or intermittent) bearing movement which may create over heat.
-Make sure the wheel shaft has a little axial play in the bushings. The wheel shaft (without wheel) must spin freely. Disconnect the CVD if necessary. At least, check the spinning when the inner dog-bone is not inside the oneway drive shaft.

Hope you will find the "why" out.
The front L eccentric bushing and rear R concentric bushing are the most serious. My habbit is, I always lub the bearings well, the bearing oil will get into the balls by hand turn the bearings.
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