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Old 05-12-2011, 09:41 AM   #511
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That's awesome Drew. I grab the morning coffee, sit down to check rctech, and there's Drew with the news! People are going to expect this now.

Troy, you know me.... I will be out terrorizing the local scene once the sun pops out. FW looks to be shaping up as an electric lay out, but I will still make a couple plus the Sizzler. Definitely hitting Timezone a time or two... the TZGP is etched into the shop wall as an immoveable date. That race is always too much fun. Drew; you're rumored to be there. The IROCC Speed Week on Vancouver Island July 9th is on my "not to miss" calendar.

Thanks guys!
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:47 PM   #512
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Default Max Power engine cone for 12's

What is the height of cone on the Max .12 engines?

Also is the part available at RC America, MX 20600?

Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:15 PM   #513
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What is the height of cone on the Max .12 engines?

Also is the part available at RC America, MX 20600?

Thanks.
We sell the Xray one, which is the one we use. I will have to check on the height.

That is the right part number for the Max cone, but we do not stock it.

Thanks Drew
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:29 PM   #514
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Default Shock Q

drew, i am building the shocks ,aluminum as i should/think i have all the parts to do so, will try plastic after i run car so i have something to compare to, question is nit appears that i can ONLY build the shocks with <1> thin shim <1>0-ring >1> thick shim, assuming the thick shim is the 2 thicker ones on the shim parts tree. Question is they say the initial setting should be what you recommended with <2> o-rings per shock, but my kit only comes with 4 o-rings total, does this mean to build as per initial setting from the manual i have to purchase the <4> other o-rings to do so? Or is it OK to build the aluminum with parts supplied wich would be the option on right, 1 thin shim, 1 washer, 1 thick shim, you recommended building other way for the aluminum ones, should i order the o-rings for beter performance or just build with the thck shims? thankyou
for the RX8 btw...

tommy


lastly, on the guys blowing rear bearings, are the the ones that are where the rear shaft is? where the outside<side>pulley is,i noticed they have a optional aluminum part to get rid of the plastic part thats there!, wondering if the plastic is distorting, hence blowing bearing, it would make sense??
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:46 AM   #515
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Drew, hopefully got an easy one here for ya. I have a P56 on the shelf from last year. Are you guys mounting more forward, centered up or rearward? Or just center up on the front wheel cut out?

Got the start board tweaked for the NT1. It's time to light the fuse.

Tommy; for what it's worth, I just built my shocks last night. I went aluminum bodies, 1 o-ring. I don't recall seeing 8 o-rings if I wanted to go double in each.

Brian
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:42 AM   #516
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
drew, i am building the shocks ,aluminum as i should/think i have all the parts to do so, will try plastic after i run car so i have something to compare to, question is nit appears that i can ONLY build the shocks with <1> thin shim <1>0-ring >1> thick shim, assuming the thick shim is the 2 thicker ones on the shim parts tree. Question is they say the initial setting should be what you recommended with <2> o-rings per shock, but my kit only comes with 4 o-rings total, does this mean to build as per initial setting from the manual i have to purchase the <4> other o-rings to do so? Or is it OK to build the aluminum with parts supplied wich would be the option on right, 1 thin shim, 1 washer, 1 thick shim, you recommended building other way for the aluminum ones, should i order the o-rings for beter performance or just build with the thck shims? thankyou
for the RX8 btw...

tommy


lastly, on the guys blowing rear bearings, are the the ones that are where the rear shaft is? where the outside<side>pulley is,i noticed they have a optional aluminum part to get rid of the plastic part thats there!, wondering if the plastic is distorting, hence blowing bearing, it would make sense??


Tommy, I will check and see why the o rings are not in the kit. I think the one o ring will work fine. We only use one o ring on the plastic shocks. Really thinking about it now I think the one o ring is where to go. Your damping should feel more the same from run to run.

About the bearing we have not had a problem, but I think your right about the collar getting worn down and thats way they went to a alum one. There is a lot of load on those parts.

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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Drew, hopefully got an easy one here for ya. I have a P56 on the shelf from last year. Are you guys mounting more forward, centered up or rearward? Or just center up on the front wheel cut out?

Got the start board tweaked for the NT1. It's time to light the fuse.

Tommy; for what it's worth, I just built my shocks last night. I went aluminum bodies, 1 o-ring. I don't recall seeing 8 o-rings if I wanted to go double in each.

Brian

Brian,The body Ralph likes the best is the SRC Kruzer. We never ran the P56. I would think the best place to start with the body would be in a neutral position. So I would just go center and tune from there. I think you will like the Kruzer better.


Thanks Drew
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:57 AM   #517
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Drew, hopefully got an easy one here for ya. I have a P56 on the shelf from last year. Are you guys mounting more forward, centered up or rearward? Or just center up on the front wheel cut out?

Got the start board tweaked for the NT1. It's time to light the fuse.

Tommy; for what it's worth, I just built my shocks last night. I went aluminum bodies, 1 o-ring. I don't recall seeing 8 o-rings if I wanted to go double in each.

Brian
Brian: I just mounted a P56 on my NT1 for the first time. If you mount it too far forward, the rear body mounts will come up in the rear wing mounts. I always start by trying to mount the body fairly well centered in the wheel wells. You may have to do some small amount of front bumper trimming as well. I am almost positive that Paul L. runs the Protoform bodies as well, perhaps you can find out what he is doing with his.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:32 AM   #518
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Tommy, I will check and see why the o rings are not in the kit. I think the one o ring will work fine. We only use one o ring on the plastic shocks. Really thinking about it now I think the one o ring is where to go. Your damping should feel more the same from run to run.

About the bearing we have not had a problem, but I think your right about the collar getting worn down and thats way they went to a alum one. There is a lot of load on those parts.




Brian,The body Ralph likes the best is the SRC Kruzer. We never ran the P56. I would think the best place to start with the body would be in a neutral position. So I would just go center and tune from there. I think you will like the Kruzer better.


Thanks Drew
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:08 PM   #519
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Drew,sup dog?...........Just wondering if you were gonna make the "Beat tha Heat"/RC America/Xray Race this year......


Donnie.

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Old 05-16-2011, 10:09 AM   #520
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Drew,sup dog?...........Just wondering if you were gonna make the "Beat tha Heat"/RC America/Xray Race this year......


Donnie.

Hey Donnie,

I am going to try, its always a good time. I know that Eric "EA" Anderson will be there.

Thanks Drew
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:37 PM   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Drew, hopefully got an easy one here for ya. I have a P56 on the shelf from last year. Are you guys mounting more forward, centered up or rearward? Or just center up on the front wheel cut out?

Got the start board tweaked for the NT1. It's time to light the fuse.

Tommy; for what it's worth, I just built my shocks last night. I went aluminum bodies, 1 o-ring. I don't recall seeing 8 o-rings if I wanted to go double in each.

Brian
Brian, if you haven't mounted that body already, the Scott is correct. I believe I had to move my rear posts around to the front of the shocktower. That body is kinda twitchy, so mounting it as far back as possible is the way to go. Depending on track condition, you may consider that on setup as well. I haven't run nitro sedan enough to be able to give you a definate solution, but my first thought would be a bit softer dampening in front shocks.

Let us know how that body works for you on your track. And include track conditions plz.

I ran the Cruzer this past weekend on a local temporary track. The asphalt was smooth (except one avoidable bump) and track was pretty good. Layout was small, about 110x75ish but was fun so not a big deal. My setup was Ralph's latest NT1 setup with the exception of rr shock oil. I didn't have Xray 500wt so I put 450 in it, but set the rebound at about 10% to compensate. I ran SRC 35/37 tires @ 59.5/61 (for the main)- BTW, LOOOVE the SRC tires with white wheels.
My car was really good, and if it weren't for the lap car that took out my front shock spring retainer, I woulda been right there with Jeff Whiting battling for the lead. My car was a little better than his in the low speed turns, but he was making time on me in the faster turns. Looking over my car, I realized I had the rr wing cut to full height (duh me) which explains why the faster the turn, the less steering I had campared to Jeff. Oh well, hindsight's 20/20 eh?

Last thing- congrats to Jeff and Loran Whiting. Jeff won, Loran 2nd, me 3rd (I think I got 3rd. I wasn't listening cause I was too busy pouting about my spring retainer...LOL )
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:04 PM   #522
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Tommy, I will check and see why the o rings are not in the kit. I think the one o ring will work fine. We only use one o ring on the plastic shocks. Really thinking about it now I think the one o ring is where to go. Your damping should feel more the same from run to run.

About the bearing we have not had a problem, but I think your right about the collar getting worn down and thats way they went to a alum one. There is a lot of load on those parts.




Brian,The body Ralph likes the best is the SRC Kruzer. We never ran the P56. I would think the best place to start with the body would be in a neutral position. So I would just go center and tune from there. I think you will like the Kruzer better.


Thanks Drew
When I enquired with Xray about the lack of O Rings (possibly missing from the kit) , I was informed that the instruction manual is incorrect and that the default shock build is genuinely with 1 "O" ring per shock , to build it the other way is an option which means purchasing extra O rings.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:51 PM   #523
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Originally Posted by eigthracer View Post
When I enquired with Xray about the lack of O Rings (possibly missing from the kit) , I was informed that the instruction manual is incorrect and that the default shock build is genuinely with 1 "O" ring per shock , to build it the other way is an option which means purchasing extra O rings.
The kit brings 1 o-ring for each shock... If you want to use the 2 o-ring setup, you need to purchase the additional o-rings (which I wouldn't recommend because it makes the shock feel less smooth) [These o-rings are the one that go on the shock shaft].

What I do suggest is purchasing the 5x1 o-rings for the plastic shocks (which are not included in the kit) [These orings are the ones that go on the plastic shock body to achieve the seal with the bottom cap and the shock body].

The fit between the piston and the plastic shock is superb and makes a really smooth shock. You can also achieve this feel with the aluminum shocks but it takes a bit more work...

I just like the simplicity of bleeding the plastic shocks and always getting the right rebound without air without having to refill them.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:15 PM   #524
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
The kit brings 1 o-ring for each shock... If you want to use the 2 o-ring setup, you need to purchase the additional o-rings (which I wouldn't recommend because it makes the shock feel less smooth) [These o-rings are the one that go on the shock shaft].

What I do suggest is purchasing the 5x1 o-rings for the plastic shocks (which are not included in the kit) [These orings are the ones that go on the plastic shock body to achieve the seal with the bottom cap and the shock body].

The fit between the piston and the plastic shock is superb and makes a really smooth shock. You can also achieve this feel with the aluminum shocks but it takes a bit more work...

I just like the simplicity of bleeding the plastic shocks and always getting the right rebound without air without having to refill them.
You can build the aluminum shocks to be just as smooth as the plastic ones by simply swapping the position of the 1mm and 2mm shims. If you install the 1mm shim first as per the instructions, it drags on the shaft. By swapping them, the 2mm shim doesn't drag. I sat at my table rebuilding an aluminum shock for 2 hours one day to figure out that the cavity where the shims and o-ring goes has a slight cone shape to it. As the lower cap compresses the oring and shims, it squeezes the 1mm shim just enough to make it drag. The 2mm shim however, is thicker and doesn't squeeze together to cause the same drag.
note- I've also found that not all aluminum shock bodies have the same amount of cone shape, so this might not apply to yours...

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Old 05-17-2011, 08:04 AM   #525
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[QUOTE=BigDogRacing;9120274)

I ran the Cruzer this past weekend on a local temporary track.

Last thing- congrats to Jeff and Loran Whiting. Jeff won, Loran 2nd, me 3rd (I think I got 3rd. I wasn't listening cause I was too busy pouting about my spring retainer...LOL )[/QUOTE]

I think everyone was running the Cruzer this weekend....

Sat.nitro a Main.....Loran,Me,Emily....

sun A main.....Jeff,Loran,You,Emily,Me....


Darn sponsored drivers!....LMAO!!....Are you gonna make the race on the 29th?
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