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RCAmerica/Xray,Hudy

Old 05-10-2011, 01:24 PM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
when building the shocks are u guys building with the thinner washers/o-rings or the other way with the thicker one?
On Ralph's car we run the plastic shocks, but with the alum. shocks that come in the kit I would go with the 2 thin shims and 2 O ring setup.

Thanks Drew
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Old 05-10-2011, 03:06 PM
  #497  
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
On Ralph's car we run the plastic shocks, but with the alum. shocks that come in the kit I would go with the 2 thin shims and 2 O ring setup.

Thanks Drew
why did you run the plastic shocks, and im assuming the ones that came with the kit? but i also saw a set of plastic shocks with bleeders in the plastic caps? can those caps be used in conjunction with my aluminum shocks with the bleeders down lower?
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:45 AM
  #498  
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
why did you run the plastic shocks, and im assuming the ones that came with the kit? but i also saw a set of plastic shocks with bleeders in the plastic caps? can those caps be used in conjunction with my aluminum shocks with the bleeders down lower?

We have always ran the plastic shocks. Ralph feels that they work better. Yes the plastic shocks that come with the kit. The only thing is Xray did not add the o-rings you need to build the plastic shocks, so you will need those. The hole in the cap in not a bleeder, it allows no air to get trap above the bladder, and is easier to build with no rebound. Yes the cap will work on any Xray shock.

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Old 05-11-2011, 09:15 AM
  #499  
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
We have always ran the plastic shocks. Ralph feels that they work better. Yes the plastic shocks that come with the kit. The only thing is Xray did not add the o-rings you need to build the plastic shocks, so you will need those. The hole in the cap in not a bleeder, it allows no air to get trap above the bladder, and is easier to build with no rebound. Yes the cap will work on any Xray shock.

Thanks Drew
The part number of the o-rings you need is:
97 0050 O-RING 5x1 (10)


There is a mistake on the NT1 instructions manual, between these o-rings and the 971031 (the error is in the image).
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:42 AM
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thanks, that was my next q!! the cap with lil hole, thats not the same cap in kit as well, or is it?
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:46 AM
  #501  
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Originally Posted by TommyBlazin View Post
thanks, that was my next q!! the cap with lil hole, thats not the same cap in kit as well, or is it?
Same cap, just no hole. You can drill your own hole. 1.0mm

Thanks Drew
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:51 AM
  #502  
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
The part number of the o-rings you need is:
97 0050 O-RING 5x1 (10)
There is a mistake on the NT1 instructions manual, between these o-rings and the 971031 (the error is in the image).
to build aluminum shocks with 2 o-rings you need 971031 (3.1 x 1.6) o-rings, not 5x1
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:58 AM
  #503  
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Originally Posted by *gk* View Post
to build aluminum shocks with 2 o-rings you need 971031 (3.1 x 1.6) o-rings, not 5x1
Thanks but that was for the plastic shocks.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:24 AM
  #504  
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Did you guys ever get a video done on "How to build Xray Shocks"??
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:00 PM
  #505  
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Originally Posted by JETT View Post
Did you guys ever get a video done on "How to build Xray Shocks"??
Its funny that you asked, it is being finished up now. It should be up soon. Will post here when it gets done.

Sorry this whole thing has taken so long. Its been a work in progress for awhile.

Thanks Drew
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:05 PM
  #506  
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Originally Posted by Drew Ellis View Post
Its funny that you asked, it is being finished up now. It should be up soon. Will post here when it gets done.

Sorry this whole thing has taken so long. Its been a work in progress for awhile.

Thanks Drew
Sounds good. Thanks! On the new chassis NT1 with the carbon fiber inserts are these used mostly for high grip tracks?
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JETT View Post
Sounds good. Thanks! On the new chassis NT1 with the carbon fiber inserts are these used mostly for high grip tracks?
Well they are just tuning options. When you are wanting to stiffing up the chassis you can fine tune with the inserts. I guess the best place to use them would be in high bite. But you my fine them to make the car more forgiving in lower bite.

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Old 05-11-2011, 11:58 PM
  #508  
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Drew, since we're on shock chat, I ran into a snag. I am finishing up my NT1 '11 kit. The instructions specifically say "not" to use the shock end that comes on the tree, instead use #308316. Well, I couldn't find those in my kit so I used the shock ends from the tree. What issue is that going to cause?

I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?

Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.

Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.

Brian
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:34 AM
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Brian,

I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.

I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.

Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?

Troy
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:58 AM
  #510  
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Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Drew, since we're on shock chat, I ran into a snag. I am finishing up my NT1 '11 kit. The instructions specifically say "not" to use the shock end that comes on the tree, instead use #308316. Well, I couldn't find those in my kit so I used the shock ends from the tree. What issue is that going to cause?

I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?

Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.

Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.

Brian
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
Brian,

I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.

I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.

Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?

Troy
Hey guys,

Brian, Troy is right about the shock ends. Yes for some reason Xray didn't make the shock tower were you can slam the shock in the rear. You will have to do a little dremeling to get it to work. In the front we run a 2mm shim on the arm for the shock, that helps when you shorten the wheelbase in the front so the shock does not bind. Red (38.5) for the front and the pink (30) for the rear. We have been running 600 front 3 hole and 500 rear 2 hole. The other springs that I would have are the front (33lb) pink and the rear(25lb) blue. Those are the only springs that we really tune with.

Thanks Drew
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