RCAmerica/Xray,Hudy
#496

Thanks Drew
#498

We have always ran the plastic shocks. Ralph feels that they work better. Yes the plastic shocks that come with the kit. The only thing is Xray did not add the o-rings you need to build the plastic shocks, so you will need those. The hole in the cap in not a bleeder, it allows no air to get trap above the bladder, and is easier to build with no rebound. Yes the cap will work on any Xray shock.
Thanks Drew
#499

We have always ran the plastic shocks. Ralph feels that they work better. Yes the plastic shocks that come with the kit. The only thing is Xray did not add the o-rings you need to build the plastic shocks, so you will need those. The hole in the cap in not a bleeder, it allows no air to get trap above the bladder, and is easier to build with no rebound. Yes the cap will work on any Xray shock.
Thanks Drew
Thanks Drew
97 0050 O-RING 5x1 (10)
There is a mistake on the NT1 instructions manual, between these o-rings and the 971031 (the error is in the image).
#501
#502
Tech Apprentice
#503
#504

Did you guys ever get a video done on "How to build Xray Shocks"??
#505
#506

Sounds good. Thanks! On the new chassis NT1 with the carbon fiber inserts are these used mostly for high grip tracks?
#507

Thanks Drew
#508

Drew, since we're on shock chat, I ran into a snag. I am finishing up my NT1 '11 kit. The instructions specifically say "not" to use the shock end that comes on the tree, instead use #308316. Well, I couldn't find those in my kit so I used the shock ends from the tree. What issue is that going to cause?
I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?
Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.
Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.
Brian
I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?
Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.
Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.
Brian
#509
Tech Master
iTrader: (48)

Brian,
I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.
I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.
Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?
Troy
I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.
I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.
Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?
Troy
#510

Drew, since we're on shock chat, I ran into a snag. I am finishing up my NT1 '11 kit. The instructions specifically say "not" to use the shock end that comes on the tree, instead use #308316. Well, I couldn't find those in my kit so I used the shock ends from the tree. What issue is that going to cause?
I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?
Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.
Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.
Brian
I went to mount the shocks to the towers and it appears that there is not enough clearance between the carbon and the aluminum shock cap. I can simply Dremel in some clearance, but did I do something wrong?
Are the kit silver springs going to be very useful for day #1 testing on medium to low grip? Is there a complete spring set I should own or just pick a few? My K car only used 2 springs of which we hardly ever changed them.
Thanks for the tips! This is a good looking car. Pretty impressive build.
Brian
Brian,
I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.
I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.
Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?
Troy
I bought an NT1 this year as well. I'll see you at TZ. If your going to run at Fantasy World maybe I will have to make a trip this summer.
I had the same issue and talked to Ralph. The tree rod ends are correct. They changed the mold. Also, My front shocks were binding on the shock tower as well. I looked at pics of Ralph's WC NT1 on Redrc and he uses spacers on the suspension arm.
Drew I also would like to hear the answers. You also told me about the springs your are running when you were at Nats. What were they?
Troy
Brian, Troy is right about the shock ends. Yes for some reason Xray didn't make the shock tower were you can slam the shock in the rear. You will have to do a little dremeling to get it to work. In the front we run a 2mm shim on the arm for the shock, that helps when you shorten the wheelbase in the front so the shock does not bind. Red (38.5) for the front and the pink (30) for the rear. We have been running 600 front 3 hole and 500 rear 2 hole. The other springs that I would have are the front (33lb) pink and the rear(25lb) blue. Those are the only springs that we really tune with.
Thanks Drew