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Old 07-01-2004, 10:14 PM   #46
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I personally felt that I got a better high speed cornering with 254-256 track width and very stable.

I would say I want to drive fast ..I will have to drive hard ..
I want to drive hard ...my car must be stable ....
So I make my car more on stable side ..So I could enter the corner hard .......exit corner I need the on power steering to come out ... corner exited , I would play with caster, rollbar and rear camber.

I'm not expert ...just the personal idea .
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:06 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrChan
I personally felt that I got a better high speed cornering with 254-256 track width and very stable.

I would say I want to drive fast ..I will have to drive hard ..
I want to drive hard ...my car must be stable ....
So I make my car more on stable side ..So I could enter the corner hard .......exit corner I need the on power steering to come out ... corner exited , I would play with caster, rollbar and rear camber.

I'm not expert ...just the personal idea .
Very valuable input, thank you.
I am very confidence using this snake, no matter how I enter corners the rear end always follow the front.
I cant wait for 2nd race.
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:23 PM   #48
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Default Rebuilding the shocks

Anyone know the part number(s) to rebuild the shocks? What happens is that the shock doesn't expand out when filled. Lots of air bubbles present when I opened it up.
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:33 AM   #49
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When you fill the shock you have to get the bubbles out by moving the piston up and down, then refill the body, and slap it on. Hopefully you will have enough oil in the shock so that the shaft either pushes right out or won't go in all the way. Then you can loosen the cap (a little) and push the shaft in to bleed out a little oil until you get the correct amount of rebound from the shaft.

Sorry, I don't have the numbers for the rebuild parts.
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:39 AM   #50
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Yeah I did that before I locked the cap on. When I pushed the shaft in the shock body, the shaft would expand out. I took the cap off and lots of air bubbles. Thus I assume shocks need a rebuild. You can tell me what the part's name instead of its number. Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:41 AM   #51
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don't take the top cap off. this will cause air to get in.
just take the bottom cap off (where o-ring sits) slowly push the rod in. after you bleed some oil out, hold the shaft in place and twist the cap back in.
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Old 07-06-2004, 12:30 PM   #52
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Default Track Width

What's up guys, I was wondering what you guys have for your track width. When I try to do 254mm for the front and 262mm for the back, the front dogbones fall out when I make the first turn and the rear it just seems like the pivot balls are just a couple of threads in and if I bump something really lightly the pivot balls pull out. If anyone can give any advice it would be appreciated.
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Old 07-06-2004, 12:35 PM   #53
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Default Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by superserpent
What's up guys, I was wondering what you guys have for your track width. When I try to do 254mm for the front and 262mm for the back, the front dogbones fall out when I make the first turn and the rear it just seems like the pivot balls are just a couple of threads in and if I bump something really lightly the pivot balls pull out. If anyone can give any advice it would be appreciated.

Generally speaking you want to run 10mm difference from front to back, if your back is 262mm then your front should be 252.

I run MRX3 and rear track width i run at Crystal park is 263 front is 253mm.

are you geoff by any chance?
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Old 07-06-2004, 12:39 PM   #54
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I have the "R" conversion, on the front I have to adjust track width by when the dogbones bottom, it is about 254. It sounds like you have very short front dogbones.

Can't help you in the rear, mine is about 262 and all fits fine, but I do have a 950 with the conversion.

Does that mean mine is a "Q"?
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:31 PM   #55
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Default Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by superserpent
What's up guys, I was wondering what you guys have for your track width. When I try to do 254mm for the front and 262mm for the back, the front dogbones fall out when I make the first turn and the rear it just seems like the pivot balls are just a couple of threads in and if I bump something really lightly the pivot balls pull out. If anyone can give any advice it would be appreciated.
In that case you should be using the shims spacers behind the one way driver's.
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:58 PM   #56
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Default Re: Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10
Generally speaking you want to run 10mm difference from front to back, if your back is 262mm then your front should be 252.

I run MRX3 and rear track width i run at Crystal park is 263 front is 253mm.

are you geoff by any chance?
Thank you,
No I am not Geoff But Geoff is a very good friend of mine.
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:59 PM   #57
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Default Re: Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by tomkelley
In that case you should be using the shims spacers behind the one way driver's.
I have the shims behind the oneway drivers. But I still have that problem.
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Old 07-06-2004, 09:17 PM   #58
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Default Re: Re: Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by superserpent
I have the shims behind the oneway drivers. But I still have that problem.
SuperSerpent,

For the front, You need wheel-axle front WOS and part no 909223 and For rear, you need wheel-axle set rear light part no 909323
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:09 PM   #59
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by MrChan
SuperSerpent,

For the front, You need wheel-axle front WOS and part no 909223 and For rear, you need wheel-axle set rear light part no 909323
Mr. Chan,
What engine you are using?
Do you ever measure distance between centax nut too thread end?
Last time, Im bit struggle with this.
Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2004, 10:31 PM   #60
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Track Width

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Last time, Im bit struggle with this.
Bro, with so many hours on the 710 fiddling with the Centax clutch and you have problems on the 950 Centax?

Measuring the distance between centax nut to the end of the thread is more consistant and does not depend on how many shims you have between the flywheel and the engine front bearing.
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