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Old 08-01-2004, 09:14 AM   #136
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I am thinking of trying some mods on my 950R

Anyone tried 51T rear? Any noticable difference with the 50T?

How about the laydown front shocks? Someone told me that it would make turn in feeling more faster, but is a pain to have it properly setup....Any opinion?
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Old 08-01-2004, 10:15 PM   #137
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hey, are there any companies that make hopups for the serpent 950/R? if so, could u direct me to a website? thanks
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:48 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally posted by jasoncsc
I am thinking of trying some mods on my 950R

Anyone tried 51T rear? Any noticable difference with the 50T?

How about the laydown front shocks? Someone told me that it would make turn in feeling more faster, but is a pain to have it properly setup....Any opinion?
i did try the lay down front shocks but nothing impressed me. I changed back to stock type as I feel they are more realistic. this is only personal comment or may be i am wrong.
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:10 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally posted by jasoncsc
I am thinking of trying some mods on my 950R

Anyone tried 51T rear? Any noticable difference with the 50T?

I never use 50T, i replace it with 51T.
Better tire wear, start with 7.5mm split. Finish with 6 - 6.5mm in 45 minutes main.
Which is make my car handles constantly.
Slight understeer and getting faster and faster towards the end.
I use this setup as a guideline
http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=2352
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:14 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedy100
i did try the lay down front shocks but nothing impressed me. I changed back to stock type as I feel they are more realistic. this is only personal comment or may be i am wrong.
No, you are right (at least for me )
To many linkages equal to many mechanism and you know it will creates to many headache.
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Old 08-02-2004, 08:41 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally posted by jasoncsc
Anyone tried 51T rear? Any noticable difference with the 50T?

How about the laydown front shocks? Someone told me that it would make turn in feeling more faster, but is a pain to have it properly setup....Any opinion?
50T rear pulley -- final ratio = 50/22 = 2.273
51T rear pulley -- final ratio = 51/22 = 2.318
compare to MRX/EVOLVA 's final ratio = 48/20 = 2.400
Bigger final ratio = more acceleration.
It fit for smaller and tighter Asia type track.

That laydown shocks looks great. But I don't want to add any extra weight on my car. My car always keeps under 2525g with everything including KO Fail Safe Adapter.
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Old 08-02-2004, 08:57 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bandicoot
Hey guys, anybody using the M8 radio succesfully with a fail safe? I heard from airtronics that the dynamite 2550 does not work with it and the 2551 does, dynamite also makes a 2553 micro unit that I know nothing about. Is anybody using the Venom and M8 with success
I use M8 VIII with KO Fail Safe Adapter. Not much problem. My throttle servo is 9451. RX311 with KO Fail Safe may jam the digital servo when you touch your antenna. But when the car leave more than 30cm,it will not happen. But when I change to LRP micro receiver,it never happen again. Don't know why?
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Old 08-02-2004, 10:02 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
50T rear pulley -- final ratio = 50/22 = 2.273
51T rear pulley -- final ratio = 51/22 = 2.318
compare to MRX/EVOLVA 's final ratio = 48/20 = 2.400
Bigger final ratio = more acceleration.
It fit for smaller and tighter Asia type track.

That laydown shocks looks great. But I don't want to add any extra weight on my car. My car always keeps under 2525g with everything including KO Fail Safe Adapter.
Less top speed if comparing with the same spur & pinion too.
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Old 08-03-2004, 02:05 AM   #144
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Default Maintenance Question

What do you guys use to maintain your 950/Rs? Will denature alcohol in a spray bottle harm the plastic and electronics? I'm thinking about using that since it's cheap to buy.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:00 AM   #145
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I have used denatured alcohol for years to clean chassis', engines, etc. You do want to use it outside to avoid breathing fumes. You might also consider wearing some disposable or reusable latex gloves to avoid contact with the skin. Denatured alcohol or Methanol is poisonous.

The alcohol will not damage any parts or even the electronics, and it cuts dirt and oil residue quite well. Use a brush and air compressor to blow off dirt and dry off the car. The only drawback to using alcohol is that is hydroscopic, it absorbs water vapor, so it will cause some corrosion or rust to occur if parts are not dried quickly. The alcohol will also get into bearings and may dry out any oil causing bearings to rust.

Alcohol works well on engines, carbs, etc. I will usually rinse off engine parts before i do any disassembly since it cuts the castor oil residue very well.

I would not get into the habit of washing car with alcohol too frequently, unless you plan to re-oil bearings often. I would suggest getting some of the Serpent Cleaning Putty and use it between rounds to keep the car clean. Stuff works great, especially if you use it throughout the day of racing.

One other suggestion, for dirty pipes; get some Go-Jo handcleaner, without pumice, and clean the pipe and header after every run before dirt, foam, and oil residue cook on the pipe. You will find that the handcleaner works very well, probably the best stuff I have found after years of racing and trying all sorts of cleaners. You can also buy Go-Jo Hand Wipes that will work as well or better than the goop since the cloth is already impregnated with cleaner. If I let a pipe get really dirty, I will use some Easy-Off oven cleaner and let it soak. You definitely need gloves with that stuff. But, the cleaner will etch the aluminum so you would have to polish it to get the nice bright alum finish. You can use Mother's Wheel polish. If you have a bench grinder, you can get an arbor and buffing wheel at Sears, etc, and really get a nice finish on the aluminum.

Last edited by John Patterson; 08-03-2004 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:05 AM   #146
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I just got an email back from Serpent USA.
They said that we could order
Part #SER100005 Spare Parts Set for Serpent 950R
http://www.serpent-usa.com/product-page-ser100005.html

Part #SER100008 Option Parts Set for Serpent 950R
http://www.serpent-usa.com/product-page-ser100008.html

from our local hobby shops, so the prices should be cheaper than what they have on the Serpent USA website.

Yes, you may purchase these items from your local shop.
Thank you for the inquiry.
Best regards,

Serpent USA
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:24 PM   #147
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I already have an order in for the options package from Ashford Hobby should be shipping tomorrow Price was $139.00 or something like that.
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Old 08-04-2004, 08:18 PM   #148
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Default Great Illia

Some warm conversation with Sir Illia Van Gastel,

ARIFIN TAN (ID) 31−07−04 at 08:44
Congrats to your podium Ilia.
Finally you showed up on international level event.
1 thing about your setup, with 32' on right and 37 on left how does it feels? and why ?
Thanks for your time.

ILIA VAN GASTEL (BE) 31−07−04 at 09:47
Thanks Arifin,
Well in the semi final I used 35° around.
But actually 32° left and 35° and 37° right was Michaels idea, and I tried it in the final and it was great. I could do much faster laptimes. I cant really explain why but I had more grip when I needed it and less tire wear.

ARIFIN TAN (ID) 02−08−04 at 11:34
Ok, I got it.
Sometime we have to just try and find the explaination later.
Have ever try to mount the front upper arm to its top hole?
Im using your "TQ/Victory Roeselare" setup (I only change the rear camber to -1.5 deg). The car is seems lack of high speed steering, entering a sweeper(at approx 70-80% throttle) after back straight.
I stood the rear shock 1 step, it helps but I feel there something I could do more.

Illia :
Hei Arifin,

About you're reaction on mytsn.

Indeed sometimes things come clear after
you tried them.
About the 32° - 37°.
This track had a lot of high speed left corners,
so tire wear at the right is much higher there.
So 37° was good to not wear out the tire to much.
And maybe the 32° on the left was good to compensate
the grip loss with the 37°.
I felt the advantage of it that the tire wear left and right
was more equal now, so you dont have that problem
that the car steers all the way to the right after 20min.

The set-up from Roeselare is good but you should really try
the set-up I posted from Lux, it's better to my opninion.
I used 13,5mm set-up ride heigt front and left ofcourse chassis
included, 8.5 without chassis. And than set the camber rear
at 2.5 and 3 where I usually use 3 and 3.5 and so on.

I never tried the top holes for the upper arms, should do
that actually.

Greetings
Ilia


Me:
Hi Illia,

Thanks for the explanation.
I must try it when the condition allowing me to do that.

Anyway I notes that you were using 50T with 8mm split, together
with rear camber 3 - 3.5 deg that would make the rear end very much
stable. But how you create enough front traction to balance the back end?

1 last thing with 3 - 3.5 deg rear camber together
with shoctower pos no1, is your rear tire (both) coning badly ?

Illia:
No problem,

Yes indeed I was using the 50T pulley but
with the 24 pulley on the side. This actually came
true this, Michael went testing in Italy together
with Eduardo and Alberto Picco. And they found
out that with the big rear bearings on the axle the car
was faster on the straight than with the small bearings (51T pulley).
Maybe under torque that the small bearings dont turn
as easy. But when you want to use the big bearings on the
rear axle you have to go to the 50Tpulley. And to compensate
the overdrive loss, you use the 24 on the side.

With 50T 24 it's even more than 51T 25, that why
we used 8 - 8.5mm difference on the tires.

About the camber, well it's not so easy, because I used
13,5mm (8.5mm) set-up ride heigth and 2.5° and 3° left and right,
you come out different than with 3° -3.5° and 6.5 and 7mm
set-up ride height. After setting up I lower it again.

Greetz
Ilia


Me:
Hi,
That is very valuable information you had.
Very much make sense.
If you don’t mind, can I share this bearing info
to my fellow racer in other forum than TSN ? (rctech.net)

And thanks for your rear camber tips also.
Honestly, Im lazy too lazy to doing the camber adjustment.
Too many linkages to open!! ha ha ha …
Sometime… most time I narrow trackwidth if I want to make
.5 degree correction…

Good luck on your future racing!

Illia :
Sure, you can share the bearing info
with fellow racers on rctech.net.
I dont think it's a secret.

About the lazy thing, narrow the track width
is not always the good sollution I think.

I always use 2mm space between the upper arms.
(it's 1.2mm in the manual I think)

You cant get to 262mm if you dont do that.
But to be honest, if you dont brake anything you
only have to set-up the car ones and normally it stays ok.

Good luck to you to Arifin.

Greetings Ilia
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Old 08-04-2004, 08:51 PM   #149
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Default About the 32-37

Does this pertain only to the fronts only or all around? Interesting how they changed shores right before the final without enough time to test the setup. It must've been like a NASCAR type race track - fast left handers.
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:48 PM   #150
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Default Re: About the 32-37

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Does this pertain only to the fronts only or all around? Interesting how they changed shores right before the final without enough time to test the setup. It must've been like a NASCAR type race track - fast left handers.
Check this :
http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=2659

very interesting setup.
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