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Old 01-15-2011, 09:01 PM   #46
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OK guys, Ive painted up and trimmed the P37 body, but I think Ive run into a problem.
In the AARCMCC rules it says that the maximum height from the rear bumper to the ground including a 10mm spacer under the chassis is 50mm, but since mounting it onto my car, its almost 60mm - i followed the trim lines and I could only find 1 trim line, not 2 like some bodies have.
Is this normal, or did I not see a lower trim line??
I had a similar problem (although not 10mm) with the P56 but not with the P37
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:06 PM   #47
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So are there 2 trim lines on the rear bumper area?? I just don't remember seeing any more than 1!
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:31 AM   #48
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Dj_Shakespear;

Must confess, I'm a bit confused by the body trim line problem you're having. The molded rear trim line on the P37 body was made to conform to the EFRA GBS (Global Body Spec) rule: Max 50mm measured with a 10mm spacer under the chassis plate level.

I have a fully trimmed Protoform P37 sitting on the table right in front of me. It's trimmed on the body line all the way around - so it's not raked in any way.
With a 10mm spacer under it the rear trim line is 48mm off the table. That's 2mm under the maximum allowed.

So - I can't figure out what you're talking about.

Incidentally, the ROAR rule for the rear trim line is being changed to conform to the EFRA wording.

Dale - Protoform
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:20 AM   #49
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I had this problem with one of the first P-56! I trimmed it without paying any attention down the marked line so it was my own fault I got it wring.

Now I'm just more careful when I trim the body ...

The Proto body's are MEGA
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #50
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Has anyone ran the P-37 and Chevy Cruzer back to back? How do they compare?
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:26 PM   #51
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Has anyone ran the P-37 and Chevy Cruzer back to back? How do they compare?
not yet but will do it next week at the forgass race
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:00 PM   #52
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Dj_Shakespear;

Must confess, I'm a bit confused by the body trim line problem you're having. The molded rear trim line on the P37 body was made to conform to the EFRA GBS (Global Body Spec) rule: Max 50mm measured with a 10mm spacer under the chassis plate level.

I have a fully trimmed Protoform P37 sitting on the table right in front of me. It's trimmed on the body line all the way around - so it's not raked in any way.
With a 10mm spacer under it the rear trim line is 48mm off the table. That's 2mm under the maximum allowed.

So - I can't figure out what you're talking about.

Incidentally, the ROAR rule for the rear trim line is being changed to conform to the EFRA wording.

Dale - Protoform
So is there only a single trim line at the rear that makes it less than 50mm high? I just don't remember seeing a second line, which I was happy about so I left it like that. Maybe its just the way I had it mounted on my car - Kyosho RRR but I also have these circular things that go on the posts so you can raise the body to a precise height instead of using body pins underneath, maybe that caused it to be a little higher.
Other than that, it ran quite fantastically - engine was running hotter than I wanted because I didn't cut the front side windows out, plus my tank lost its seal after a pit stop so I ended up with a 200 C degrees motor!! Luckily nothing blew - except the plug - and after that it was perfect!
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:47 AM   #53
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not yet but will do it next week at the forgass race
Please let me know. I'm just about ready for Winter Nats, just need to make final body choice.
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:18 PM   #54
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Has anyone ran the P-37 and Chevy Cruzer back to back? How do they compare?
When I tested them back to back I found that the Chevy was a little more aggressive corner entry where as the P-37 seemed a little more all around stable. Lap times were nearly identical so it will be more of a matter of feel on each track. In the fast sections like a crosstown at my local track I could be a bit more aggressive with the P-37. P-37 felt a little closer to the Blitz RS4 with a little more steering. The Chevy makes the car feel like it has more roll in the corners. Either one would be a great choice for the Fort.

Hope this Helps
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:27 PM   #55
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Please let me know. I'm just about ready for Winter Nats, just need to make final body choice.
I would bring both if you can
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:29 AM   #56
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@Dale Epp
Have you started to produce this body and P56 with EFRA number in the windshield? Or are they not yet homologated?

/Mackan
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:00 PM   #57
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looks like it would work well.. I guess we will see.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:03 PM   #58
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What's the deal with body stiffeners, is it better to glue or bolt them?

Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:59 PM   #59
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What's the deal with body stiffeners, is it better to glue or bolt them?

Thanks.
I would think bolting them would be heavier but stronger, glueing would be lighter but not as strong.
I would probably use rivets (I think that's what I saw) they seem very small and light - more sturdy than glue.
But then there's the chance you could rip an unrepairable hole in the body whereas glue would just detatch?
My opinion: rivet it.
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Old 02-06-2011, 04:17 PM   #60
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MackanG;

Sorry for the slow reponse. We recieved the EFRA numbers from EFRA on *Jan 5th 2011 - for the #1521 Protoform P56 and the #1524 Protoform P37.

(*4 weeks late due to illness of the key EFRA body homologation guy)

The numbers were engraved into the mold's windshields the same day. Everything produced from those 2 molds since then has the approval number in the lexan.

Dale - Protoform
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