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Old 08-29-2010, 09:47 AM   #16
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thanks, but i dont remember anything like that on my 960 or 966, i guess i just have to prep a few bodies


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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
One, the body posts on the Mugen are eccentric so turning them 180 degrees moves the body forward or backward a couple mm.

Two, different bodies.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:17 AM   #17
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With the Shepherd the bost posts are set, so does it mean we have to standby with two bodies (one set forward, one set back) for race tuning? Or shall we set the body to 14mm from the tip of the bumper and use the gurney wing to adjust for downforce/traction/balance?
I have two uncut bodies so i'd like to experiment
I use the Mugen front body posts. If I need to move the body I can just elongate the rear holes

14mm is WAY too far back for a Shepherd. Needs to be 18-20mm.

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thanks, but i dont remember anything like that on my 960 or 966, i guess i just have to prep a few bodies
See my response above.

Often what I do when trying a new body is I will go ahead and paint up two, mount one the way I think it needs to be but leave the holes uncut on the second. If the car seems pushy, I can cut the holes in the 2nd for a more forward mount. Too twitchy, mount the 2nd back more.

2mm can make a BIG difference.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:59 AM   #18
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Great info here guys, thanks for your help.

So, the further fowrad the body is, the more steering? Also, the question is lightweight or regular wieght? Is there a difference beside the wieght?
What I did was put the carbon front body mount left the stock body post pushed them as far front as I could then put the body 12mm from the front bumper with the LTwieght and it handles like it is on rails full trigger none stop but when I put the regular wieght body it will not handle it will push in the corner.
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:19 PM   #19
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14mm is WAY too far back for a Shepherd. Needs to be 18-20mm.
Yes if you leave the rest the same, but you will need to do some changes on 12mm.

Build a stable car, and not a car that just go's through a corner.
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:42 PM   #20
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Yes if you leave the rest the same, but you will need to do some changes on 12mm.

Build a stable car, and not a car that just go's through a corner.
My car turns like all get out and is still stable at 20mm with the wing up. It's pretty darn amazing actually. But then, I have always liked a body slightly more forward than most people. Doesn't matter what car, track or body, I always seem to be about 2mm forward of everyone else with the same combo. It's just what works for me. I can get stability from other areas.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:03 PM   #21
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i am going to give it a try, i still have a P909 unpainted to try it on.

thanks guys, learnt some more about body mounting
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:32 PM   #22
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if you mount the body too far front, yr front wheels will be rubbing on the shell during a turn right?...
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Old 08-30-2010, 01:59 AM   #23
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if you mount the body too far front, yr front wheels will be rubbing on the shell during a turn right?...
Thats weird. I never came across this problem. the wheels dont rub off even on the top or the sides. but i made sure i sanded down the edges so when the car does turn it doesnt get shredded by the lexan.

The rear wheels on my vector does scrape the TOP of the body though. must be getting a lotta downforce there
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:56 AM   #24
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do you guys mount the body as low as possible? i mount mine with the front edge of the bumper touching the shell...

maybe that explain why the front wheels would rub on the body when turning, if i mount the body too far front.
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:17 AM   #25
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Yes, at least on the Shepherd the front tires will rub on top if you go really far forward. 18mm seems to be the limit with the front arms back, 20 if they are forward. Raising the rear with the Shepherd extenders or other methods will help.
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:38 PM   #26
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Yes, at least on the Shepherd the front tires will rub on top if you go really far forward. 18mm seems to be the limit with the front arms back, 20 if they are forward. Raising the rear with the Shepherd extenders or other methods will help.
does raising the rear with the extenders have the same/similar impact as raising the gurney strip? more rear traction and thus pushing...
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by NitroWD View Post
does raising the rear with the extenders have the same/similar impact as raising the gurney strip? more rear traction and thus pushing...
It gives you more of everything, more rear downforce and more steering.
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:23 PM   #28
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does raising the rear with the extenders have the same/similar impact as raising the gurney strip? more rear traction and thus pushing...
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It gives you more of everything, more rear downforce and more steering.
What he said. It seems to give a bit more steering AND a bit more stable.

When you raise the gurney (thanks for using the right name ) you also move it back, which moves the center of pressure back. Raising the body doesn't really change the center of pressure much, but still increases downforce.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:13 AM   #29
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What he said. It seems to give a bit more steering AND a bit more stable.
Its called a diffuser effect, but dont forget that next year all bodies must go down again to 160mm :cry
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:52 AM   #30
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Its called a diffuser effect, but dont forget that next year all bodies must go down again to 160mm :cry
What 160mm? Will the Protoform 909 still be legal? compared to the LOLA body I have the 'side dams' are much much taller.
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