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Old 07-29-2010, 08:38 AM   #1
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hi guys, have a little problems with my 733. the screws that come up from the chassis all seem to be way to tight and if i try and get them out the hex head screws thread them self and makes it impossilbe to try and get them out. would anyone have any ideas of ways to get these screws out.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:23 AM   #2
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I assume you have a Serpent, which one? You need to use a good set of wrenches, the L wrenches are no good for RC, they strip the bolts too easy.

Get this set, will help a lot.

http://www.kamikazercracing.com/prod...prod=XCE106308
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:26 AM   #3
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And if that doesn't work, you can cut a slot in the heads with a dremel tool and a cut-off wheel and remove them with a screw driver.
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:05 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by ugglasdav View Post
hi guys, have a little problems with my 733. the screws that come up from the chassis all seem to be way to tight and if i try and get them out the hex head screws thread them self and makes it impossilbe to try and get them out. would anyone have any ideas of ways to get these screws out.
Did you use loctite? then Heat the screw or where the screws go into with a heat gun or a flame torch to 100 degrees celsius, then use a good quality allen wrench that fits on the head tightly to loosen it, if you use loctite then DO NOT over-tighten the screws, just snug and let the loctite do it's job, common mistakes is over-tightening the screws while using loctite causing it almost impossible to loosen.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:39 PM   #5
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i was using a hudy wrench and when i tryed to lossin the screws the wrench just turned in the heads of the screw which made it impossible for me to get it out.
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:15 PM   #6
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i was using a hudy wrench and when i tryed to lossin the screws the wrench just turned in the heads of the screw which made it impossible for me to get it out.
are they aluminum screws?

regardless, dont overtighten them. when you do you are pulling the threads out of shape. next time you tighten the screws, they will never be locked in tension like they were before.

you can get a fastener better loaded in tension if you have lubricated the threads, and under the head, where most of the bearing surface is.

many people think that if you lube the threads it will allow the fastener come loose. not true.

also,
loctite is a wonderful thing if you are having problems with screws vibrating loose..however it is a lot of extra work you have to do when prepping or tearing down your car for a race.

when you remove a loctite'd screw, you should chase all of the threads with a tap and die to get rid of the old loctite. i also use a bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean the screws.

loctite works best when everything is clean, if there is oil or debris the hold of the loctite will be compromised. i spray fasteners and holes with brake clean.

sometimes on aluminum, the anodizing will keep the loctite from having a strong galvanic action. you can either use a loctite primer spray or you can chase the threads with a tap to get rid of some anodising.

hope this helps.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:22 AM   #7
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thanks for the help guys but im realy trying to find ways of actualy getting these screws out besides useing a hex screw driver as this does not work. they are so tight when u try and losin them the top of the hex screwdirver just gets rung.
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:35 AM   #8
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It happens more, and not only on serpents. Just make slot on the top of the screw (dremel if you have one) and drive them out with an flat driver. If you still are unable to get them out, just use a small hammer to drive them out with an flat screwdriver.
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Old 07-30-2010, 03:38 AM   #9
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It happens more, and not only on serpents. Just make slot on the top of the screw (dremel if you have one) and drive them out with an flat driver. If you still are unable to get them out, just use a small hammer to drive them out with an flat screwdriver.
yeah this is the method but its difficult to do this when screws are under the
chassis..
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:43 AM   #10
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yeah this is the method but its difficult to do this when screws are under the
chassis..
cutting a slot is a good idea when you can reach the head, but if the head is badly damaged and deeply countersunk, then cutting a slot may ding up the chassis.

so instead of damaging the chassis, you could drill the head out, separating the chassis from the bulkhead or whatever. try to use a large enough drill bit to just remove the head, so if you are lucky there will enough of the shank left to grab with vicegrips to extract.

i have not had much luck with extractors, but i haven't found ones made small enough for these fasteners.

if vicegrips can't get a grip, then sometimes you can drill further into the shank and push thru, drilling makes heat and loosens things up.

my best solution is to avoid this by using both a quality tool,(hudy etc) and steel fastener, like tony's screws (no relation)
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:04 AM   #11
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If and when you get the screw out I would lubricate the screws. Copper paste or anti (never)seize. I put the same thing on my pinions and clutch bells.


Pass you soon...
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:10 AM   #12
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If and when you get the screw out I would lubricate the screws. Copper paste or anti (never)seize. I put the same thing on my pinions and clutch bells.


Pass you soon...

can you explain what is this? does it decrease the wear on the pinions?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:53 AM   #13
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does it decrease the wear on the pinions?
You don't use it on the pinions, but on the thread. It will prevent the pinion from getting stuck on the clutchbell.

If you try to use this as an lubricant you will get supprised. The amount of copper in it will wear out the pinions
faster then you can imagine.
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Old 07-30-2010, 10:34 AM   #14
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can you explain what is this? does it decrease the wear on the pinions?
It does nothing for the wear of the pinions. Due to heat and vibration when you mount alluminum to steel these two dis-simular metals seem to seize together. The paste or lubricant prevents this from happening. It's makes removing screws and pinions so much easier.
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Old 07-30-2010, 11:12 AM   #15
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It does nothing for the wear of the pinions. Due to heat and vibration when you mount alluminum to steel these two dis-simular metals seem to seize together. The paste or lubricant prevents this from happening. It's makes removing screws and pinions so much easier.
ahh, ok thanks for the info. In fact when i want to change a pinion i am
facing this problem with pinions being too tight. I guess i have to find
this stuff, but i dont know how to ask it? can you help by posting a link?
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