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Old 07-27-2010, 07:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by VA_Racer View Post
here try these, they are cheap and I havent had any problem with them http://www.avidrc.com/shop/index.php?l=search_list&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=N&s[sku]=Y&s[match]=all&s[search]=thrust+bearing
$3ea, good price. ill order a few tonite.

anyway question; would a blown bearing make my clutch slip and heat up?
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:58 PM   #17
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will this work.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...x10x1mm-Washer
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
$3ea, good price. ill order a few tonite.

anyway question; would a blown bearing make my clutch slip and heat up?

The thickness of the bearing becomes smaller what wil give a bigger gap and that causes slip......
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:09 AM   #19
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can i also ask why capricorn.

1 thrust plate is 5.2mm and the other is 5mm?

will any 5mm thrust bearing work? or do i need the specific one (5.2 & 5.0mm)
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:02 AM   #20
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The disc with the 5.2mm hole must be mounted towards the clutch so the 5mm shaft can run free from it.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:47 AM   #21
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The disc with the 5.2mm hole must be mounted towards the clutch so the 5mm shaft can run free from it.
thanks, i ordered 3 thrust bearings from avid.

i wonder if it comes with 2 diff size plates.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
thanks, i ordered 3 thrust bearings from avid.

i wonder if it comes with 2 diff size plates.
let my give you an advice. Keep with stock things. Dont mess brands on
one thing or on the other. If your clutch is properly measured and well
maintained trust me you will never have a thrust bearing failure.
Or almost never I never had the past 3-4 years. Just my opinion
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:58 PM   #23
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all thrusts come with two diff size washers i believe the one with the bigger hole goes toward the motor if u get it backwards it will destroy the bearing quick as i have found out the hard way but i use the kyo thrust on my cap clutch with no probs at all, and thats with the bigger kyo washer on the inside and the cap smaller washer on the outside so u can mix stuff up with no problems
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by gfilos View Post
let my give you an advice. Keep with stock things. Dont mess brands on
one thing or on the other. If your clutch is properly measured and well
maintained trust me you will never have a thrust bearing failure.
Or almost never I never had the past 3-4 years. Just my opinion
i dont think thrust bearings would make a difference, as its a bearing.

i wasent prepared to pay $12 + $13euro ($25eu) for a thrust bearing to be posted to australia until i figured out why i was blowing bearings
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfilos View Post
let my give you an advice. Keep with stock things. Dont mess brands on
one thing or on the other. If your clutch is properly measured and well
maintained trust me you will never have a thrust bearing failure.
Or almost never I never had the past 3-4 years. Just my opinion
your talkin to a guy with nt1 diffs in a kyo i think hes past the point of trin not to mix brands up
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:38 PM   #26
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I've had no end of issues with TM thrust bearings. I have replaced my dodgey TM one with a Serpent Thrust Bearing and it is working like a charm!

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Old 08-09-2010, 01:24 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Roadrash730 View Post
your talkin to a guy with nt1 diffs in a kyo i think hes past the point of trin not to mix brands up
u forgot serpent shocks... lol.

also running random mugen/xray rear belt lol.
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:47 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by flynia View Post
I've had no end of issues with TM thrust bearings. I have replaced my dodgey TM one with a Serpent Thrust Bearing and it is working like a charm!

I think we overlook the clutch itself and the role the Thrust bearing plays. I Use TM thrust bearings and they work well for me.. I suppose you also have to consider the spurs, the clutch bearings, pinions, shims too.

When the clutch engages, everything becomes static and the thrust bearings bear the load of the engaged clutch, if the thrust bearing is arse about ie plates wrong way, then perhaps a chance of bearings wearing the cage and balls fly everywhere.

On power then off power and clutch would be at a state where the problems arise as the clutch bell freely spins on a crankshaft with bearings, shims and retainers. Spurs and Pinions, too much end play and things could shudder... very bad... very bad

When at idle, an inspection of clutch never hurts... seen a few clutch retainer screws fall out a few times too.
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