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Old 07-20-2006, 01:22 AM   #1471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwk2much
Use attached to visualize Corse-R's explanation if it is still unclear
interesting. so tell me mike. did you use this at the odonell championships? LOL

damn that short wheelbase business. HAHAHA
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Old 07-21-2006, 04:02 PM   #1472
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Default instruction manual

Hi , I recently buy a MRX-4 and I don't have the instruction manual, if someone can be scan it and send it by email,or if you have a copy to sale I will buy it.Thank you.

email to : [email protected]

Alain.
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:51 AM   #1473
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Default manual

I found one. Thank you David.

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Old 07-28-2006, 12:22 PM   #1474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Not necesarily is damaged, but the best you can do is to look at the piston and the combustion chamber and see if are pitted, if the answer is yes... too bad. If not, you're a lucky guy. Black residues doesn't mean damage, only a partial combustion and soot formation (almost all times could be cleaned with a wipe and some fresh fuel).
Got my Pistons and liners back from OS rocket. Havent installed the JP one yet, but it looks very nice and very clean. No pitting, and tight now, so shouldnt give me any hassles. I installed the other P/L i got done, a Wasp .28 for a truggy, and i still cant start it. Need to buy a heat gun, this thing is soo tight should be a good runner
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:06 PM   #1475
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Default Sugestions for that bad behaviour....

Today I've been at my local track and faced a very strange thing with my 4-R, here's the scenario:

- Mugen Dome body (Kyosho one), gurney flap at 3mm over the body.
- 1degree toe-out front.
- 2.5 degrees camber at Front and 3 at rear.
- White spring with #600 oil (F/R).
- 2 degree toe-in at rear.
- Long rear upper a-arm
- Shocks at their stock positions
- 1mm shim at the rear uprights.
- Front roll bar at around 40
- Rear roll stock with 3mm of hang over the balls (stock setup).
- A ackerman.
- 35 shore all around.

Car has a massive understeer coming out the turns and feels too nervous on entering the turns.

Solved it partially giving it more caster (in fact I have only the 1mm shim at rear of the a-arm) but spanks the front tyres giving me a pretty inner lip the outer side is almost brand new.

Could not test this morning but wanting tomorrow to test:
- B Ackerman.
- Giving less camber at the fronts
- Go to med rear a-arm.
- Red springs at rear



Suggestions please? Track is big and flowing, gear ratio is 17/49 and 21/45. Only two hairpins the rest are flowing turns.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D

Last edited by Corse-R; 08-06-2006 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:49 PM   #1476
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Default thrust bearing assembly

I have a mrx4r and I just added the new Ninja .21 to it. I ran it this weekend and have "melted" 3 thrust bearings. After running the car for just about a minute, the bell is too hot to touch. It is all set at box settings. Has anyone else had this issue?? Any ideas what is causing so much heat??
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:03 PM   #1477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortfatguy
I have a mrx4r and I just added the new Ninja .21 to it. I ran it this weekend and have "melted" 3 thrust bearings. After running the car for just about a minute, the bell is too hot to touch. It is all set at box settings. Has anyone else had this issue?? Any ideas what is causing so much heat??
Blowing the thrust bearing is an indication you're running too low bell clearance and the thrust bearing is being under stress all the time.

And of course, the thrust bearing needs to be cleaned and greased each time you go to the track, at least, check it and if in doubt, a quick blast of brake cleaner and grease it a little the balls, just to ensure that enough lubrication is provided to the balls (the one I use is the green Ronnie's grease with great results, any Molybdenum grease will work for you - the best ones, the ones in spray, a quick blast and is all you need it).
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:32 PM   #1478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Today I've been at my local track and faced a very strange thing with my 4-R, here's the scenario:

- Mugen Dome body (Kyosho one), gurney flap at 3mm over the body.
- 1degree toe-out front.
- 2.5 degrees camber at Front and 3 at rear.
- White spring with #600 oil (F/R).
- 2 degree toe-in at rear.
- Long rear upper a-arm
- Shocks at their stock positions
- 1mm shim at the rear uprights.
- Front roll bar at around 40
- Rear roll stock with 3mm of hang over the balls (stock setup).
- A ackerman.
- 35 shore all around.

Car has a massive understeer coming out the turns and feels too nervous on entering the turns.

Solved it partially giving it more caster (in fact I have only the 1mm shim at rear of the a-arm) but spanks the front tyres giving me a pretty inner lip the outer side is almost brand new.

Could not test this morning but wanting tomorrow to test:
- B Ackerman.
- Giving less camber at the fronts
- Go to med rear a-arm.
- Red springs at rear



Suggestions please? Track is big and flowing, gear ratio is 17/49 and 21/45. Only two hairpins the rest are flowing turns.
As you know enough of the hobby I guess the problem should not be found in the car set-up. I've seen a similar problem with someone and the solution was imbarrising, he needed to enlarge the steering travel on his remote.........

I'm not telling you that the problem lies there, but maybe you have a steering servo which doesn't work correct under load?.......
Does the body maybe hit the wheels?......

Something like that?
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:35 PM   #1479
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I made sure that the thrust bearing was lubed well. It only took about a tank and a half to fry it. The bell gap seems to be ok, anything else that could be the culpret?
I did change the spring from the silver one in the kit to the gold one so it would be a bit stiffer. So far I have fried two with the silver spring and one with the gold.
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:43 PM   #1480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Blowing the thrust bearing is an indication you're running too low bell clearance and the thrust bearing is being under stress all the time.
Or to much endplay.......
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Old 08-06-2006, 04:35 PM   #1481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
As you know enough of the hobby I guess the problem should not be found in the car set-up. I've seen a similar problem with someone and the solution was imbarrising, he needed to enlarge the steering travel on his remote.........

I'm not telling you that the problem lies there, but maybe you have a steering servo which doesn't work correct under load?.......
Does the body maybe hit the wheels?......

Something like that?
Doh!... during the dissasembly and checking my notes, found a thing very very embarrasing...

Been running all the day with only 6mm split when the car needs 7... this could be the main cause for the understeer...

Anyway, tomorrow I'll test another time with the correct split and try to work from there.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 08-06-2006, 05:43 PM   #1482
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Is there a manual available for the mrx4r online, or do any of you guys have a digital copy. it would be greatly appreciated
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Old 08-06-2006, 06:26 PM   #1483
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TTT
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Old 08-06-2006, 06:28 PM   #1484
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Is adjustable wheel base an option on the MRX4 and if so how do you do it?
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:56 PM   #1485
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Default adjusting the rear body support..

hey guys im kind of still new to 1:8

what does the the adjusting screw at the back of the car thats in the middle of the rear body support do ?

when adjusting the screw the scew you can move the part up and down. i noticed it limits or adds chassis up travel..

is this clear at all? sorry for the bad explanation
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