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Old 07-11-2006, 12:00 PM   #1441
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Sounds good...........ever have a problem just PM me and Ill give you the help you need........good racing.
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:06 PM   #1442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
the mill from his car for the mains......which I won!!! Now, to rebuild my C5 and put my clutch together properly!!!
What... no fast 1/8th's up there that day JJ? hahaha Patience... ill be back up there soon . Should get my JP sleeve back fairly soon. Also from a bit of discussion with some Nitro gurus, i stupidly forgot to shim my engine when i changed from racing 20% to 30% Hence the engine would have been detonating badly (its all black inside ).... just wait till i sort out my engine... and I install the R parts....

Oh and carefull with the whole "i won this and i TQed that".... you sound like someone else i know
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:08 PM   #1443
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Oh and if you need your centax sorted let me know. Ive found out a good way to set them, seems to work great (similar to the old setup for the serpent clutches). Ive had problems with clutches before but ive never had the weights come out even when my clutch bolt came loose!
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:11 PM   #1444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
Also from a bit of discussion with some Nitro gurus, i stupidly forgot to shim my engine when i changed from racing 20% to 30% Hence the engine would have been detonating badly (its all black inside ).... just wait till i sort out my engine... and I install the R parts....
Not necesarily is damaged, but the best you can do is to look at the piston and the combustion chamber and see if are pitted, if the answer is yes... too bad. If not, you're a lucky guy. Black residues doesn't mean damage, only a partial combustion and soot formation (almost all times could be cleaned with a wipe and some fresh fuel).
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:13 PM   #1445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
Anyone ever have the clutch fly weights spit themselves out of the clutch?? (I did today!!??) The clutch bell was spaced at no more than .6mm without the rear bearing in and then reassembled. Do you need to shim the rear bearing as well? And if so what are the guidelines for shimming the rear bearing?
John
If your weights are worn they will come out. I had that problem this past weekend and Mike S. told me to check them. They were worn and when I put new ones in I did not have the problem anymore. I would check them against a new set to see.

Paul
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:22 PM   #1446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Not necesarily is damaged, but the best you can do is to look at the piston and the combustion chamber and see if are pitted, if the answer is yes... too bad. If not, you're a lucky guy. Black residues doesn't mean damage, only a partial combustion and soot formation (almost all times could be cleaned with a wipe and some fresh fuel).
It looks to be burnt on pretty bad (didnt get any high temps that day either) My Piston and sleeve are currently being checked and squeeze if required, and i didnt notice anything pitted when i stripped the engine. Considering how much these P/S sets retail for.... im very lucky. Ill shim it out for sure. Is there anywhere on the net that explains how much to shim? or do people just add 1 shim... or 2? any ideas?
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Old 07-11-2006, 06:41 PM   #1447
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Axle182, Axle182, Axle182. What are doing? 25% 0.7mm 30% 0.8mm.

Didn't I teach you anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
It looks to be burnt on pretty bad (didnt get any high temps that day either) My Piston and sleeve are currently being checked and squeeze if required, and i didnt notice anything pitted when i stripped the engine. Considering how much these P/S sets retail for.... im very lucky. Ill shim it out for sure. Is there anywhere on the net that explains how much to shim? or do people just add 1 shim... or 2? any ideas?
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Old 07-11-2006, 08:23 PM   #1448
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Has anyone had a chance to test the new parts?

H0139-B front upright (MRX4)

#H0181A 3mm spacer (0.5mm/10 entrance)

#H0181B 3mm spacer (1mm/10 entrance)

#H0181C 3mm spacer (2mm/10 entrance)

#H0181D 3mm spacer (3mm/10 entrance)
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Old 07-11-2006, 08:36 PM   #1449
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What was the use of the 4.5, 5.5 and 6.5 rear brace thing for the bulkhead again? Anyone know?
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Old 07-11-2006, 08:48 PM   #1450
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they raise and lower the rear roll center by raising or lowering the hinge pin height. 4.5 gives the car the lowest rear roll center and is what Mike Swauger uses for his baseline set-up. A lower roll center gives more weight transfer. Higher roll center is closer to CG so there is less weight transfer.........I think...or is it the other way around
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:32 PM   #1451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
What... no fast 1/8th's up there that day JJ? hahaha Patience... ill be back up there soon . Should get my JP sleeve back fairly soon. Also from a bit of discussion with some Nitro gurus, i stupidly forgot to shim my engine when i changed from racing 20% to 30% Hence the engine would have been detonating badly (its all black inside ).... just wait till i sort out my engine... and I install the R parts....

Oh and carefull with the whole "i won this and i TQed that".... you sound like someone else i know
Just trying to taunt you into coming back up here man!!! Stop racing your real car and put me in my place!!! LOL Our last race is still the best 10 minute race I've had in long while!!!
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:25 AM   #1452
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Thank's for the info!
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:37 AM   #1453
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what is this 3mm spacer business? i understand the new upright and have yet to test but will soon, but what is this 3mm spacer with 10 entrance thing? picture?
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:38 AM   #1454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz
Axle182, Axle182, Axle182. What are doing? 25% 0.7mm 30% 0.8mm.

Didn't I teach you anything.
Boz your a lifesaver, but bloody hard to get in contact with! lol. You and Taber should check your mail!.

Thanks bud. I got a selection of shims last night from the LHS and ill check out sizes soon. And yes you did teach me alot, but i never said i could remember it! lol

Im assuming you got an R now? how do you like it? My 4 is stripped at the moment, waiting on more parts and finally going to install the R parts (been saying that for a while!)

JJ, now go avay or i shall taunt you a second timer you english food trough water, pig dog you... (monty python )

Ill see you in edmonton soon enough matey, just make sure you keep those lap times low, or you would have spent allll that money for nothing lol
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:21 AM   #1455
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[QUOTE=nigelnuggets]what is this 3mm spacer business? i understand the new upright and have yet to test but will soon, but what is this 3mm spacer with 10 entrance thing? picture?[/QUOTE

The description below from the website should clarify..

Front Upright <H0139-B>
The position of steering arm was lowered by 4mm. Then, it can be adjusted using different type of spacer (H0181A - D).
Wheel offset can be adjusted using H0268 Axle washers.

MRX4-R New Version Spare Parts
P/N Description
H0139-B Front Upright
H0181A 3mm Spacer 0.5mm (10 pcs.)
H0181B 3mm Spacer 1.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0181C 3mm Spacer 2.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0181D 3mm Spacer 3.0mm (10 pcs.)
H0268* Axle Washer (4 pcs.)
H0474 Chassis

*If you use new front upright H0139B, you need the H0268 Axle Washer.
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