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Old 06-05-2006, 01:34 PM   #1411
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Is that Carl? I thought he didn't run r/c anymore...
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:56 PM   #1412
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just waiting for the North East to dry-out....what is with this weather??? Steve, looking to either race this Sunday or break-in the Ninja 21...call me
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:13 PM   #1413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
A few questions to better answer your question...I assume the engine is properly tuned? and not breaking in the motor...if the engine is not spinning at the proper RPM the 2-shoe 2nd speed will not engage. If OK, try this...

1.) Use silver or white paint to color the spring loaded screw head for one of the 2-speed clutch screws. (this will ensure you are making equal adjustments to each 2-speed screw)

2.) tighten the screws until they just fully collapse. Then turn each one out 2.5 turns...this will ensure the car is in first gear and difficult to get into 2nd.

3.) Set the spacing between the 2-speed clutch shoes and the 2nd gear bell by 0.5MM, using the center 2-speed clutch shoes set screws. Equal distance for each.

4.) Run the car under race conditions to adjust the engagment of the 2-speed. (Since we set the screws so tight, this will take a number of adjustments)

5.) loosen the two spring loaded clutch screws by 1/8 turn each time (one is now color silver or white for easy identification, even while the engine is idling) until the 2nd speed engages where you want on the track.

In the begining, be careful not to overrev the engine on a straight, since the 2-speed will be engaged in 1st gear. When you hear / see it not shift on the track, throttle back, bring it in and adjust the spring loaded screws.
I think I have it sorted out. Rookie error!! I feel like a dork. I had the shoes on backwards...long part of the top shoe on the right instead of the right and opposite for the bottom shoe...oooppps. I also sanded the back side of the shoe, because that was what was rubbing on the inner part of the bell housing. I didn't start the car to try out the new set-up but I am pretty sure that was the problem.

Thanks for your tips and sugestions though. I really appreciate it.

John Hughes

Last edited by jjmudd; 06-05-2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 06-06-2006, 12:04 AM   #1414
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Here is my final "new to Mugen and 1/8 racing" question. Where can I find a gear ratio chart for the MRX-4?
Thanks,
John
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Old 06-06-2006, 03:18 AM   #1415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
Here is my final "new to Mugen and 1/8 racing" question. Where can I find a gear ratio chart for the MRX-4?
Thanks,
John
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Old 06-06-2006, 07:28 AM   #1416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmudd
Here is my final "new to Mugen and 1/8 racing" question. Where can I find a gear ratio chart for the MRX-4?
Thanks,
John
Really no need to worry to much about gearing, not as critical as electric racing...just do what we all do in NY...biggest clutch bell gears...smallest spur gears and lean the crap out of the engine....


Just kidding of course....or maybe not
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Old 06-06-2006, 09:39 PM   #1417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano
Really no need to worry to much about gearing, not as critical as electric racing...just do what we all do in NY...biggest clutch bell gears...smallest spur gears and lean the crap out of the engine....


Just kidding of course....or maybe not
NY sounds like my kind of race town!!!

Thanks for all your help guys. I was looking on the U.S. Mugen site and didn't find anything so thanks X4 for pointing me in the right direction.

John Hughes
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:54 AM   #1418
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jjmudd, i wouldnt recommend playing around with the gear ratio's at this time, use the stock set-up(17,20-46,49) this will provide you with plenty of get up and go till you get some more experience with the car.there should be a final drive ratio chart that came with the kit.
steve.
also, check your side belt(front pulley) you should have the 26t pulley on there, not the 25t.
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Old 06-07-2006, 03:53 PM   #1419
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AKSHUN,
Thanks for the advice. I checked the pully and indeed did have the 26 on. Does anyone klnow of a shop that has the kuwahra aluminum pully set for this car?
Thanks,
John
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Old 06-07-2006, 06:18 PM   #1420
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what is the benefit of using aluminium pulleys ?
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Old 06-07-2006, 07:41 PM   #1421
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jjmudd, the pulleys look awesome, and are made with great quality, save your money and buy other spare parts, or you will learn the hard way, like i did. the front(24 tooth one breaks belts) the rear (18tooth) side belt one is good , i havent had a problem with that one.However, i am racing alot on high traction race tracks, if your just planning on bashin, then go ahead.
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:42 PM   #1422
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Bought a second car for parts and $400.00 in extra bearings/gears/belts. I just thought that the aluminum pullies wouldn't wear out as quickly.
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:25 AM   #1423
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Default off power understeer..

hey guys

i had my first run with my mrx4 on the weekend. car handled pretty good in stock setup however i had a problem with off power understeer and on power oversteer.

what i did to help was give less front castor and moved the rear shock up one position.

is the stock droop settings ok for tyres that are 70mm front and 76mm rear ?
i found the stock droop settings to feel like too much ?

im new to this 1/8 machine

thanks for your help
John
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Old 06-25-2006, 07:56 AM   #1424
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hey bud, try startin with a 74mm rear, using the 7mm split, this is a standard starting point for any set-up.also, check your camber(front) and toe in/out.
hope this helps.
steve
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Old 06-25-2006, 08:28 AM   #1425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
is the stock droop settings ok for tyres that are 70mm front and 76mm rear ?
i found the stock droop settings to feel like too much ?
- The diameters stated on the stock setup (69/76mm) probably isn't the fastest combo of tyres, but gives you a good tyre life span. Probably you may want to go smaller for qualifiers (67/74mm is a good diameter without hampering too much the tyre life). Seen people going crazy at 65/72 for qualifiiers, but... they get tyres for free.
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