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Old 11-02-2005, 03:10 AM   #796
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On the track, The car is rigid and doesn't exhibit any tweaking after i crash hard, flying and somebody hit me too hehehe but it cool. The chassis is a very strong slab of aluminum and suffered only minor scratches lol on its bottom after im driving on Sun Vally Speedway course.
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Old 11-06-2005, 03:37 PM   #797
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Swauger Kicked ASS!
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Old 11-07-2005, 01:05 AM   #798
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Default Conical manifold for 3,5cc engine

It is possible to see the performances, this type of CONICAL

5 fins manifold - short type (best solution on long straights)

6 fins manifold - medium type (suggested to have more push exiting curves and on the straight)

7 fins manifold - long type (more power exiting curves)

Choose your weapon
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Old 11-07-2005, 02:19 AM   #799
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My MRX-4 just run over the track with no hesitation. My only problem with this car is too much power. I dont even control hehe and some front push and some rear traction. My car would push coming out of larger corners or break the rear free on very tigth corners. Back in to my pits, i added one more caster to the front, and i also added another degree of rear toe and my car so much better. I was impressed with how the MRX-4 reacted to tuning adjustments. THANKZ TO MUGEN
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:38 AM   #800
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GREAT JOB: Mike and Harry on their victories at the ROAR nationals....see you guys in December
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Old 11-09-2005, 07:37 PM   #801
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Before drving the mugen MRX-4 I only occasionally run 1/10 - 1/8 on road, but after racing this machine, Im hooked on this segment and trying to figure out to save some money for tires and fuel. Mugen kits easy to build VERY EASY and so easy to drive than 1/10 scale out of the box. Any experienced racer involed in or looking to get into, 1/8 on road racing will have a fun time behind the wheel of MRX-4 and have the competitive machine necessary to take home a win lol...
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Old 11-10-2005, 01:05 AM   #802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX_joe21
My MRX-4 ........... I was impressed with how the MRX-4 reacted to tuning adjustments. THANKZ TO MUGEN
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX_joe21
Any experienced racer involed in or looking to get into, 1/8 on road racing will have a fun time behind the wheel of MRX-4 and have the competitive machine necessary to take home a win lol...
Of course Your Mugen is the best, superior, best looking, best smelling, good in bed, nice ass car there is, otherwise you have to admit that you are stupid because you bought a bad car......
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Old 11-10-2005, 06:39 AM   #803
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Hmmmmmmmmm...
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Old 11-10-2005, 06:39 AM   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
Of course Your Mugen is the best, superior, best looking, best smelling, good in bed, nice ass car there is, otherwise you have to admit that you are stupid because you bought a bad car......
Get a life dude.What a Loser & low life lolz tang ina mo hehe
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Old 11-10-2005, 06:55 AM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Browne
Yes, the chassis having more roll is correct for low bite conditions.
You are controling a spool, no differential - creating the cornering ability by controling when you lift and drop the inside rear tire. As I said before, you can learn alot by reading how Karters approach their set-up - they, like us, run a "locked" rear end.

This is what you can learn (it does apply to 1/8th):

Physical Forces and Setup - Theory and Practice_by James Hughes

"Steering Geometry
The steering geometry can be regarded at the movement and displacement of the front wheels as the steering wheel is turned. This movement is quite complex, and involves a number of different settings. There is one thing in common though, and that is the reason why we need a complicated geometry - We MUST lift the inside wheel while cornering.
The inside wheel lift is what enables a kart to go round a corner without using a differential.
Because of this lack of a differential, a karts natural direction of travel, forwards, is very difficult to change. This is down to the differing radii of turn experienced by the inner and outer rear wheels while turning a corner. The inside wheel is actually travelling a shorter distance than the outside, so therefor is needs to take fewer revolutions to go round the corner. However, the two rear wheels are attached by a solid axle, and must therefor move together, so in order to turn, one of the wheels need to skid over the track surface. In a car, the differential will allow the wheels to turn at different rates, without this skidding action.
This skidding action, or indeed the lack of it, is what make a stationary kart so difficult to turn round - you have to overcome the grip of one of the tyres, and with the sticky tyres used in many kart classes this can expend a lot of energy.
This is the reason for lifting the inside wheel and it effectively turns the kart into a tricycle during the cornering process! The steering geometry causes the inner rear wheel to lift off the ground while cornering, which means the wheel can rotate faster than it is passing over the ground. The rear inner wheel is no longer touching the track, and we therefor no longer need to overcome the grip from that tyre in order to turn.
In fact, depending on the power of the engine, we may be able to allow some scrub. For example, while a Prokart may need to entirely lift the inner wheel, because it does not have enough power to overcome the scrub, a more powerful kart may have power to spare in the corner, meaning that the power loss to scrub can be overcome. However, any scrub will start to cause understeer when entering a corner, so even though the engine may be powerful, it may still be necessary to completely lift the inner rear to maintain decent handling."
It make sence.
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:00 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
When you say "standard clutch shoe," I assume you mean the gray shoe. They are both good shoes. The red shoe is softer and will give you a very different clutch response from the gray shoe.
So which one is better? the red one of the gray one?
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:06 AM   #807
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All depends on the track type you are racing at. Some people at my track use the gray some and the other track they go to use the red shoe.
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Old 11-10-2005, 11:14 AM   #808
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:01 AM   #809
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This is what you can learn (it does apply to 1/8th):

Physical Forces and Setup - Theory and Practice_by James Hughes

"Steering Geometry
The steering geometry can be regarded at the movement and displacement of the front wheels as the steering wheel is turned. This movement is quite complex, and involves a number of different settings. There is one thing in common though, and that is the reason why we need a complicated geometry - We MUST lift the inside wheel while cornering.
The inside wheel lift is what enables a kart to go round a corner without using a differential.
Because of this lack of a differential, a karts natural direction of travel, forwards, is very difficult to change. This is down to the differing radii of turn experienced by the inner and outer rear wheels while turning a corner. The inside wheel is actually travelling a shorter distance than the outside, so therefor is needs to take fewer revolutions to go round the corner. However, the two rear wheels are attached by a solid axle, and must therefor move together, so in order to turn, one of the wheels need to skid over the track surface. In a car, the differential will allow the wheels to turn at different rates, without this skidding action.
This skidding action, or indeed the lack of it, is what make a stationary kart so difficult to turn round - you have to overcome the grip of one of the tyres, and with the sticky tyres used in many kart classes this can expend a lot of energy.
This is the reason for lifting the inside wheel and it effectively turns the kart into a tricycle during the cornering process! The steering geometry causes the inner rear wheel to lift off the ground while cornering, which means the wheel can rotate faster than it is passing over the ground. The rear inner wheel is no longer touching the track, and we therefor no longer need to overcome the grip from that tyre in order to turn.
In fact, depending on the power of the engine, we may be able to allow some scrub. For example, while a Prokart may need to entirely lift the inner wheel, because it does not have enough power to overcome the scrub, a more powerful kart may have power to spare in the corner, meaning that the power loss to scrub can be overcome. However, any scrub will start to cause understeer when entering a corner, so even though the engine may be powerful, it may still be necessary to completely lift the inner rear to maintain decent handling."
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:22 AM   #810
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Can someone please explain to me the benefits of the adjustable rear sway bar over the stock bar that comes with the car. Also what benefits would you get from using the jp light weight clutch bell besides less weight?Thanks
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