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Old 09-30-2005, 09:00 AM   #736
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Originally Posted by choisan
Blitz is a japanese manufacturer, they will be oem and under kyosho's brand name.
Blitz is Taiwanese.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:49 AM   #737
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Eli running Serpent now...? Wow.....
Anyhow, I too heading up to Hamilton for the MWS #6, and I heard they just resealed the track........and this weekend, you guys can feel the different first hand, I want to know (after the race of course) the track is TONS of traction or LESS then before..?

I have never ran at Hamilton.........and next week will be the first, just want to get some head start from you local guys...thanks.
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:11 PM   #738
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I am definately looking forward to this weekend. I know i will be breaking something since this will be my first time out with a 1/8. I will let you know on the traction. The track is very nice. The guys definately take care of their facility.

Last edited by bmcallister; 10-01-2005 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:19 PM   #739
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Originally Posted by bmcallister
I am definately looking forward to this weekend. I know i will be breaking something since this will be my first time out with a 1/8. I will let you know on the traction. The track is very nice. The guys definately take care of their facility.
Yeah BM....the last time I ran my 1/8th was at the Chicago MWS...not good, and I hope I can do better this weekend......
Someone told me, Hamilton (after sealing).......used 45 shore tires to fight against TRACTION ROLL..............Toledo part 2 continued..? Stay tune....
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Old 10-03-2005, 03:35 PM   #740
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The track(Hamilton) is awesome! They did a really great job repainting it and sealing it. Unfortunately i was unable to run do to radion problems. Everyone was looking for traction all day. And they also ran out of VHT. Traction should be good for the the MWS race. Everyone i know was running 35 shore tires due to no traction
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:53 PM   #741
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Mike or anyone else.....

I got to experiment with the INS box this past weekend and was pretty happy with my times considering the car was a dog out of the corners. I was within a tenth of my fastest lap at the track with sub-par performance on the low end. The engine (REX 321P) was 212F after the 30 minute main, so I think I'm pretty close on the needle settings.

How do I get the bottom end back the easiest? Clutch, gearing, etc....

I was running the stock MRX4 gearing in 1st gear (17/49). I tightened the clutch up about 1/4 turn and it helped a little in the main, but not enough. The car seems very good on a full tank after pitting which leads me to believe it needs more fuel pressure as it consumes fuel. The car lean bogged a few times just before I needed to pit for fuel. Would shortening the pressure line help a little since the engine is not drawing as much vacuum with the box? Should I tighten the clutch a little more? I went from 1.00mm to 1.10mm (Red shoe, s. hard spring, 0.4mm/0.4mm clearances).

Thanks
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Old 10-04-2005, 09:26 AM   #742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
Mike or anyone else.....

I got to experiment with the INS box this past weekend and was pretty happy with my times considering the car was a dog out of the corners. I was within a tenth of my fastest lap at the track with sub-par performance on the low end. The engine (REX 321P) was 212F after the 30 minute main, so I think I'm pretty close on the needle settings.

How do I get the bottom end back the easiest? Clutch, gearing, etc....

I was running the stock MRX4 gearing in 1st gear (17/49). I tightened the clutch up about 1/4 turn and it helped a little in the main, but not enough. The car seems very good on a full tank after pitting which leads me to believe it needs more fuel pressure as it consumes fuel. The car lean bogged a few times just before I needed to pit for fuel. Would shortening the pressure line help a little since the engine is not drawing as much vacuum with the box? Should I tighten the clutch a little more? I went from 1.00mm to 1.10mm (Red shoe, s. hard spring, 0.4mm/0.4mm clearances).

Thanks
Run a grey shoe with a JP spring with the same clearances. Also try a 16 tooth first gear.
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Old 10-04-2005, 10:23 AM   #743
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thanks- I'm guessing the JP spring is harder than the Mugen super hard spring?

16T pinions are already on order.

Mike- could you explain the physics of your last reply on my question regarding high traction situations where the inside rear wheel may be lifting briefly entering a turn (nearly traction rolling). You had me removing a shim from the rear upright and standing the shock up one hole.

Am I trying to eliminate chassis roll (and bite) or increase the roll to absorb the lateral momentum. Standing the shocks up I understand, but not removing the shim. Does removing the shim have a larger impact on the camber gain than the roll center position?

I guess what I'm asking is if I encounter high traction am I trying to get, or get rid of chassis roll to correct the problem?

Sorry for all the questions, but about the only thing I can't get a grasp on is my above question. There seems to be more than one way to skin a cat.
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:36 PM   #744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcallister
The track(Hamilton) is awesome! They did a really great job repainting it and sealing it. Unfortunately i was unable to run do to radion problems. Everyone was looking for traction all day. And they also ran out of VHT. Traction should be good for the the MWS race. Everyone i know was running 35 shore tires due to no traction
Thanks for the update.....so traction roll is NOT the issue this time...
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Old 10-04-2005, 06:03 PM   #745
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Thanks for the update.....so traction roll is NOT the issue this time...

It wasnt sunday, but they are in the works right now of trying several different compounds.

www.tsrcar.com
You can read o the forum on how the traction is going.
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Old 10-05-2005, 10:09 AM   #746
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Dear mike,

Thanks u very much supporting me with your setup,I won both clases 1/10 and 1/8 NOVAROSSI ASIAN CUP A MAIN FINAL,the MTX3 still performing and the MRX4 is a really good car.I'll hope u can guide me your setup in future.


MUGEN POWER.
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:32 AM   #747
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Hi guys, need some help here--of the different ackerman settings, which one provides more ackerman and which one make your front wheel more parallel?

I assume the ones with more ackerman is more suitable for smaller tracks and the one with less ackerman is for larger flowing tracks? Please tell me if I am wrong.

Thanks!
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:37 AM   #748
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I understand 'A' is the most aggressive ackerman setting and 'D' the least aggressive.
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:25 AM   #749
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I were running the one in the middle (my car has 10,11,12) and the car was agressive, then I changed to the sorter one (#10) and notice that the car got more stable in the front, easier to drive. I changed it for the last qualifier and the main on last race. Just go to the shorter one.
I know that I run a different car but I think that it may help
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:41 AM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
I understand 'A' is the most aggressive ackerman setting and 'D' the least aggressive.
Thanks!
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