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Old 07-27-2005, 02:07 AM   #586
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Spillertwo , just use the grey shoe ( stock ) is just as good as red and is 1/3 the price. One of the top drivers at my club said just to use the grey one, they said when using the red one, clutch setting ( end play of bell I think) is more critical.
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Old 07-27-2005, 05:54 AM   #587
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Originally Posted by M7H
To get more steering into a corner, You can also change your caster setting.
Move your upper arms more forward (less caster), this will give you more steering into the corner, but less out off this corner......
yes, i have noticed that i had 4mm caster in front (used to have it on 950-r). now i moved to 2mm and placed rear shocks a bit more vertical (2nd hole from top).

i also gained some steering by front roll center adjustement (0,5mm shims)

i bought some titanium parts (pivot bals, shaft, screws, rods), so now my rtr car w/o fuel weights 2505grams and is very reactive to all my inputs.

really nice to drive now, specially amaizing with rideheights arround 3mm!

regards!
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:36 AM   #588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Hi,
Can anybody explain to me what the difference is between the stock
clutch shoe (part number H0765) and the red clutch shoe (part number H0769) ?
What would it do and is the red clutch shoe worth the money (costs about four times more than the stock clutch shoe ) ?
Thanks,
Spiller
Simply put, red is softer than gray. I've had some good success with the red shoe, but only in combination with the JP aluminum clutch bell. I've also tried many combinations with the gray shoe and most were successful too, so if it comes down to price...go with the gray. The red shoes do not last as long as the gray but deliver better punch when tuned properly, so I use red for quals and gray for mains. I hope this helps.
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:02 PM   #589
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Hi guys!

Can anyone comment on the "MEGA M21 RACE ON-ROAD 201501" on a MRX4?

I'm planning on getting one of these for club days and save my JP FX r-03 for special occasions.

Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2005, 11:59 PM   #590
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Hi electric convert,

I have the exact same two motors.

I'm not all that happy with my Mega motor at the moment.
After driving for about 6 hours with this motor it has needed a complete
revision. All compression was gone.
After changing the inner set it turned out that also the inner bearings where both gone, so now it's in for replacing those.
Other disadvantage is that in my opinion it eats glow plugs and also you have to replace the conrod after every two hours of driving to be on the safe side.
After this revision it will be completely new with the exception of the crankshaft, the motor house and the carburator.

As to the driving experience the difference with the JP is quite impressive.
The Mega has about the same top speed maybe 10% less but on the bottom side it has no way near the power of the JP. Bottom power is certainly 50% under that of the JP.

On the positive side: I can run the Mega for about 6min30sec on a fuel tank and the JP only lasts for five minutes

My conclusion: after this revision I will use up my remaining conrod that's still lying around after 3 hours of running but if it goes again it will not be fixed again.

I am going to buy a new Novarossi Plus 21-7 motor when they become available and if the Mega motor is still alive at that time, it will become my rain motor.

Ciao,
Spiller
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Old 07-28-2005, 03:45 AM   #591
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Thanks Spiller. I've taken your tips onboard for when I start using this motor.
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Old 07-28-2005, 03:55 AM   #592
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Citizens of Mugenville,

How do I prevent the outside of the rear tyres from chunking? I've lowered the rear lower pivots to 4.5 blocks (previously 6.5) and shimmed up the rear outer links. Will this fix it?

Is it normal for the rear tyres to cone negatively? Is this how it should be or should the tyres always wear relatively flat?

My front tyres are forming a lip on the inner side of the tyre, is this from scrubbing? Is it normal? If not? how do I fix this?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-28-2005, 05:38 AM   #593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Other disadvantage is that in my opinion it eats glow plugs and also you have to replace the conrod after every two hours of driving to be on the safe side........

On the positive side: I can run the Mega for about 6min30sec on a fuel tank and the JP only lasts for five minutes
That is why it is eating your glowplugs, it's to lean......
This engine likes, no NEEDS, a rich setting.....
Tunning this engine goes a bit against all the things you've learned from previous engines.......
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:13 AM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
That is why it is eating your glowplugs, it's to lean......
This engine likes, no NEEDS, a rich setting.....
Tunning this engine goes a bit against all the things you've learned from previous engines.......
How does one know if this engine is close to optimum? What are the needle settings? Temperature? I'm worried about chasing the performance of JPs and going overboard and in effect leaning it too much.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:48 AM   #595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
Citizens of Mugenville,

How do I prevent the outside of the rear tyres from chunking? I've lowered the rear lower pivots to 4.5 blocks (previously 6.5) and shimmed up the rear outer links. Will this fix it?

Is it normal for the rear tyres to cone negatively? Is this how it should be or should the tyres always wear relatively flat?

My front tyres are forming a lip on the inner side of the tyre, is this from scrubbing? Is it normal? If not? how do I fix this?

Thanks in advance.
Round the edges of your tires on the truer. This will help, but not prevent. Lowering the rear roll center will not help. It will help the car handle better in high traction situations though. Coning does happen to rear tires and make sure it is happening across the whole tire or adjust camber to get even tire wear. The same goes for the front.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:59 AM   #596
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Electricconvert,

> If you scrap against a wall, no matter what you do, you'll chunk a tire.
> If you run a soft compound, "30-32" the tires are more likely to chunk.
> The larger the diameter of the tire, them more likely they will chunk.
basically everyone chunks tires. I've done it on my warm-up laps.

Best thing to do.
> I almost always apply a thin, narrow bead of thin CA around the outside edge of the tire, about 2-3mm wide just where the outside rubber meets the rim. Helps a little. This is also good if you have too much side bite.
> After, I slightly tapper the outside edge of the tire and round the top.

STEVE:
Can't wait for the GLC....I did not realize that practice does not start until Thrusday. Not sure if the track is open for practice on Wednesday. Lets talk this weekend
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:41 AM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
How does one know if this engine is close to optimum? What are the needle settings? Temperature? I'm worried about chasing the performance of JPs and going overboard and in effect leaning it too much.
First let the engine warm-up properly, by driving a few laps and then start adjusting the needles.
Slightly rich (a bit 4-stroking) on the bottom end.
The HSN can be "normal"......

This is the advise I've gotten from RickV, but I also preffer a rich setting on the HSN.....

Don't compare them with JP engines.....
just buy 3 Mega engines instead of 1 JP......

Also set-up your clutch a bit tight, to let the engine rev-up a bit before it engages.....
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Old 07-28-2005, 09:55 AM   #598
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M7H,
Just wanted to add that the Mega was my first motor. I never let it
get any hotter than 100 celsius. Which should be the right temp.
But one of my glow plugs lost its thread completely. When revising the
motor, I found scratches on the side of the piston, probably caused
by the filament of the destroyed glow plug.
I did notice upon revision that it had run to lean. But I never noticed
anything when I was using it.
Now, after revision I am going to run it quite rich, as you suggest, and I am curious how long it will last.
But you can indeed buy two Mega's instead of one JP but you will never get
the performance of a JP. The JP gives a much stronger performance and even as a beginner this is very obvious. Maybe if you run the Mega very lean it will perform like a JP but then it certainly will have a very short lifecycle. That sounds to me like the only explanation how the factory guys can win a race with this motor. I for one would like to know how long they can run a Mega in competition settings compared to for instance a JP ???
My conclusion stays that these motors are not very high quality but this
is off course my personal opinion.
Ciao,
Spiller
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Old 07-28-2005, 02:32 PM   #599
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I don't want to go to deep in a discusion, especially because were in the MRX4 thread (there is a Mega thread), but I understand your point of view.
Also a JP don't last very long because of the performance....
after 2.5 liter, (3/4 of a gallon) you should replace the conrod.
After 5-10 liter, the piston and liner are also worn out........
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Old 08-10-2005, 10:25 PM   #600
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what were some of the flaws of mrx-3? how is mrx-4 better?
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