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Old 06-04-2005, 07:51 AM   #496
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Default serpent 950R

here is my serpent 950R pics.
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Mugen MRX-4-serpent-950r-1.jpg   Mugen MRX-4-serpent-950r-3.jpg  
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Old 06-06-2005, 03:48 PM   #497
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Default Brake drag

Hello,
I just bought an MRX4 and am in the process of assembling it.
I come from electro cars.

Upon assembling I noticed that since I installed the complete
drive train that you can not pull the side belt so the car keeps
spinning a bit (in electro cars your car spins a few rotations).

After looking further I notice that the brake shoes are touching
the brake disk. So this is creating some drag. The brake lever
is not even installed yet. Also the lever to operate the brake
can only move a little bit.

Is this drag normal for a 1/8e car ? Or should the brake shoes
not touch the brake disk ?

Thanks,
Spiller
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:15 PM   #498
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Spiller, my advise within the brake area as it is most important.

I use the teflon (yellow) brake pads. I forget which pads come with the kit but the process is the same.

1.) scuff both metal plates where the pad will rest.
2.) I prefer JB Weld (steel epoxy) versus CA, but either work to attach the pads to the scuffed metal plates
3.) have 2x smooth plates (tile, glass, or metal NOT wood) available to sandwich the brake disks so the pads are glued flat and tight to the metal plates. Make sure not to use too much glue or the pad will shift when sandwiching the plates. I do one set at a time.

I prefer the JB weld as it sets nicely and is not weakened by heat and fuel. It takes longer but it worth it. The pads I'm using on my MRX4 are from my MRX3.

4.) Once glue make sure you remove any excess glue from the brake pins holes. The brake plates should float on the pins and not bind... This is important.

5.) The next is to sand the pad portion evenly. If properly glued, you can hold the metal plate with our fingers while making figure 8's. I use 400 grit sand paper on flat surface (the tile is use to sandwich and glue the pads). Make a few passes and test fit the entire brake system. It takes a while, but its the most important part of having a super smooth 1/8th.

Once the once portion is fully assembled, its spins just like an electric. Its when you attach the side belt where things tighten-up. My suggestion is to get the Kuwahara (sp) side belt. Its much more flexible than the stock side belt.

Good luck
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:35 PM   #499
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Default brake pads

very good info Carl... thanks from an mrx3 driver

sam
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Old 06-06-2005, 08:45 PM   #500
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Great tip Carl. I basically built my MRX4 following the instructions and after a few tanks of break in the car has already loosened up a bit itself. . Gonna finish it up a bit tomorrow or Wednesday.
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:57 PM   #501
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Hello Carl,
Thanks for the reply, I will disassemble the rear drivetrain
and go through it like you suggest.

One more question:
every time I try to get on the forum of mugenracing.com I get
an internal error message and the forum doesn't open.
Anybody have the same problem ?

Thanks,
Spiller
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:25 AM   #502
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I also space the pads with fuel tubing,crude but effective.
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Old 06-07-2005, 09:35 AM   #503
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Hello trashcar,

Do you mean you put fuel tubing between the two brakepads
on the brake pad guiding pins ? Do you have a photograph of that ?

Have you driven like that for a long time because this will
probably put extra stress on your brake servo in order to compress
the fuel tubing ? I do think that it will provide a more consistent brake
feeling like that, maybe it would have been an improvement if they
installed springs between the brake pads. That might be a new idea we
just found

What I did notice with the brake pads is that if you look at the
right side bulkhead where it touches the right brake pad on the bottom side,
the lip that touches the brake pad only touches the brake pad
in the front. It is not touching the brake pad as a whole.

From the description of Carl I only did two things different:
+ I sandwiched the brake pads between wood and not plastic or tile,
but they did look like they glued together perfectly. I will verify on
a flat board that they are perfectly flat again.
+ I did not execute his fifth step
I am going back and doing this now.

Ciao,
Spiller
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Old 06-07-2005, 09:48 AM   #504
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Yes, Step # 5 is most important. As it will provide enough space within the braking zone for the rotor not to bind. Make sure the finished pads float on the brake pins. Open the holes with a reamer if you need to.

Instead of using fuel tubing, some guys use ASC 1/12th scale front suspension springs (.016 diameter).
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Old 06-07-2005, 03:12 PM   #505
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Tried the springs and had better success with fuel tubing.You are only using the tubing to space the pads not to act as a return spring.
The brake cam only acts on the pads at disc contact and as they are so rigid the don't need to be supported over their full contact area.
Something goes against the grain to leave loose metal to metal contact with springs ,I tried them and was better satisfied with the fuel tubing.
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Old 06-07-2005, 03:35 PM   #506
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Talking

Hello Trashcar and Carl,

I have disassembled the rear and have gone through
step 4 and 5 of Carl's description. It has made everything
a lot smoother. Step 4 was certainly important too because
after using a reamer, the brake pads moved a lot smoother.
The drive train is a lot more free now.

I will also try Trashcar's fuel tubing and the spring if I can get
my hands on them. First I will try it without them, then with them.
So I can feel the difference

First have to finish building it and get used to driving a car that's
almost three times as fast as the car I am driving now

One thing I noticed when building this car:
the shocks are beautifull .
Finally shocks that are not a pain in the ... to build. The shocks bleed themselves through the holes. They are supersmooth. A piece of art.
I have build electro cars from Associated and Xray (same as Serpent) and
they both can learn a lot from Mugen in the shock department.

Ciao,
Spiller
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Old 06-07-2005, 06:00 PM   #507
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hey,
just got a mrx4 today. i never have driven 1/8th before. any advice!!!
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Old 06-07-2005, 06:20 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemugen
hey,
just got a mrx4 today. i never have driven 1/8th before. any advice!!!
JoeMugen you're crazy!
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:18 PM   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzoY5
JoeMugen you're crazy!
i had no choice. my screenname is joemugen and i didnt even drive a mugen... had to fix that!!!
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Old 06-07-2005, 08:54 PM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemugen
hey,
just got a mrx4 today. i never have driven 1/8th before. any advice!!!
Go easy on it. You will basically learn the car through break in while driving it. Also drive with the body on. Common sense the engine is getting a lot of air flow with it's lola body. Another thing the 8ths don't handle as good without the body so keep it on especially when you hit the higher speeds. I followed the kit and setup sheet accordingly and everything went well. Naturally the drivetrain freed up after break in. Be prepared to have some aching hands and DO READY THE MANUAL CLOSELY. If you put something on wrong or for get, it's all over. I whole hand was red with two water bumps from building the car. BTW, this is all if you do have the kit. Lucky you if you did get it used.
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