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Old 09-28-2004, 04:22 AM   #136
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He changed just about everything

I think he used four parts from the stock kit when building it
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Old 09-28-2004, 04:24 AM   #137
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maybe it should be call ZT-1 kit instead of ZT-1 conversion
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:18 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally posted by NiMo
Wrong.
It gives more steering angle (smaller turning radius) for the same amount of servo through, and the good bit is....you dont loose any of the rear end grip.

Pictures show mid conversion of front end, left - FW05 hub, Rigt - RRR hub.
hey guys doesnt the arms and the caster clips determine the caster rather than the steering knuckles? as the arms controll the ball pins or whatever they are
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:02 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
hey guys doesnt the arms and the caster clips determine the caster rather than the steering knuckles? as the arms controll the ball pins or whatever they are
Yes they do, but why are you refering to my car for castor talk.
My car was reference to using the RRR hubs to get more steering angle which has nothing to do with castor.
But whilst on the subject, you will notice that I run maximum castor to give more power on steering, but the castor angle was not enough, even running the thickest rear roll bar could not give enough on power steering, but the RRR hubs does give you much more power on steering so you can use more power coming off a corner.
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:40 AM   #140
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What would be better to use??

The MTX3 rear uprights or the RRR rear uprights?

I want to upgrade to one of those but i just want to know which is best.

I have heard that you might need to change a few more things with the MTX3 uprights, is this true? If so what would be needed?

any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-28-2004, 08:45 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally posted by NiMo
Yes they do, but why are you refering to my car for castor talk.
My car was reference to using the RRR hubs to get more steering angle which has nothing to do with castor.
But whilst on the subject, you will notice that I run maximum castor to give more power on steering, but the castor angle was not enough, even running the thickest rear roll bar could not give enough on power steering, but the RRR hubs does give you much more power on steering so you can use more power coming off a corner.
NiMo, did you try the copper rear anti-roll bar? Chris Tosolini told me to use that. It's thicker than the gold one at 3mm and you in fact have to drill out the hole of the ball end for it to fit. In any case, I just got it and have not try it yet, but I think that should improve the steering.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:10 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
NiMo, did you try the copper rear anti-roll bar? Chris Tosolini told me to use that. It's thicker than the gold one at 3mm and you in fact have to drill out the hole of the ball end for it to fit. In any case, I just got it and have not try it yet, but I think that should improve the steering.
I will have to try it as I could do with a little more front end and I still have loads of rear grip.
Do you have the part number?
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:14 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRAJ
What would be better to use??

The MTX3 rear uprights or the RRR rear uprights?

I want to upgrade to one of those but i just want to know which is best.

I have heard that you might need to change a few more things with the MTX3 uprights, is this true? If so what would be needed?

any help would be greatly appreciated
Check on the FW05 thread, it has already been listed on one of the pages.
I use the 3R rears and found I need less toe in and camber change (upper arm) than with the 05 rears.
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:30 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally posted by NiMo
I will have to try it as I could do with a little more front end and I still have loads of rear grip.
Do you have the part number?
PN 92053 5.8mm Hard Ball Joint

As to why it's called that, I have no idea...
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Old 09-28-2004, 01:16 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
PN 92053 5.8mm Hard Ball Joint

As to why it's called that, I have no idea...
Jeffreylin, do you also have the part # for the copper roll bar?
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Old 09-28-2004, 02:13 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRAJ
What would be better to use??

The MTX3 rear uprights or the RRR rear uprights?

I want to upgrade to one of those but i just want to know which is best.

I have heard that you might need to change a few more things with the MTX3 uprights, is this true? If so what would be needed?

any help would be greatly appreciated
For Mugen conversion - You will need to have the mugen rear uprights, pillow balls and bearings.

RRR conversion - just the rear uprights and short axles (same one as the front).
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:13 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidDynomite
Jeffreylin, do you also have the part # for the copper roll bar?
92053 IS the part number for the roll bar.
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Old 09-28-2004, 07:02 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeffreylin
92053 IS the part number for the roll bar.
Thank you!
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Old 09-29-2004, 04:23 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally posted by NiMo
Yes they do, but why are you refering to my car for castor talk.
My car was reference to using the RRR hubs to get more steering angle which has nothing to do with castor.
But whilst on the subject, you will notice that I run maximum castor to give more power on steering, but the castor angle was not enough, even running the thickest rear roll bar could not give enough on power steering, but the RRR hubs does give you much more power on steering so you can use more power coming off a corner.
sorry wasnt using your car to talk about caster, i hit the quote button to reply after reading you and SP racer talking.
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:19 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally posted by adlawoo
what are those ball cups you using for the steering linkage, Is that a Mugen part? Coz, I have to set my steering throw 85% only - nothing more than that and the ball cup will be rubbing onto the nut of the Kawa Front Convertion.
I'm almost positive that the linkage is Mugen. I needed the shortest ball caps to fit the short distance to adjust toe. They're very tight and durable.

I really hate how the ZT-1's shocks have to be spaced out farther, and then you have to trim steering down. I'm working on modding the shock tower to eliminate the spacers and I'll post it when I'm done. You could wait for the new FW-05RR front shock towers. They look pretty strong and best of all, they're factory.

Otherwise I may just use the existing stock front shock tower.
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