spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

Not sure how many of you have (or plan to get) the aluminum steering rack, but if you do, be careful. Apparently there are 2 versions. One has a longer rack with 2 ackerman positions, the other is the same size as the plastic rack with just one position. DO NOT USE THE LONGER RACK. It will hit the left plastic chasis brace and not allow you to turn all the way to the right. The longer rack is fine for the LD3, but not the CD3. If you're still using the stock plastic rack you should be fine. Thanks to Chris (who I know is lurking in here, good looking out!) and Saint for the help on that.

Assuming the weather holds, raceday will be Sunday. I'll try to get out Saturday and put some more runtime on that Ninja and 'get it in'.

au_Nightmare

I used the longer rack, just cut it down so it did not limit steering and from memory drilled and tapped another hole (I think.. id have to check..)

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

I could have cut it, but didn't feel like breaking out the dremel. Besides, I can just swap with the old LD3 (which took about 10 minutes) and order another one at some point.

The more I think about it, I somewhat remember having 2 complete aluminum racks, one for each car. For some reason, there was too much play in the shorter rack, so I pulled the one from the LD3, put the plastic rack on it and tossed the short aluminum rack. At least I think that's what happened

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info on the two types of steering racks, I'll make sure I get the correct part.

Spenzalii, What are your observations on the Team Chassis? Do you find it a reasonable upgrade if a new chassis was being purchased anyway. How does the car handle? I know you have been pre-occupied breaking in that missile of an engine, maybe you've had an chance to fly around a few corners at 301.

trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

Or, do what I did, use the longer rack, if that is what you accidently order, and just cut out the plastic support instead of cutting the CNC. I actually now switched back to the plastic rack because the metal rack kept breaking the pivot 'V' shaped piece. I think I went through 3 kits replacing that part. I wish that there was an aluminum one available.

Another topic:
Anyone who has replace all bearings, where did you get them, and how much. I know my front spindle bearings where the CVA's go through are pretty much shot. I am getting it ready for the season and found that most of my bearings are shot. Also, where can I get another one way bearing for the center gear?

Thanks

au_Nightmare

Make am alloy one thats what I did after I broke two plastic ones. In the end (not being happy with the "save" function anyway) I ended up locking mine up and use a tamiya servo saver on the servo.

RE: Bearings went for the $9 set lol, I got mine from http://stores.ebay.com.au/WalawalaSt...3aAUQ3a3QQtZkm

trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

Nightmare - thanks for the info. Can you take a pic of the servo saver that you used? I guess that I am unaware of that. Also, did you have someone machine that piece for you? If nothing else, can you have them make me one, then I'll weld them together like you did?

Since you got the cheaper set, do you see that it would be worth upgrading?

au_Nightmare

I didn't weld them I just took out the spring and tightened the screw up so it didn't move (I think I put a shorter screw in... can't recall now)
I just made it myself with a file and hacksaw:


Tamiya Hi-Torque Servo Saver: (? #5100)


My bearings where pretty flogged, lots of hours on them so I just went for the cheap set and replaced'em all instead of waiting for individual bearings to fail.

trumpster1

iTrader: (9)

Well, I guess that means that I should get some elbow grease!!

Servo Saver
Is this the one you used?

Thanks

spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

CurveTracer,
The chasis is nice. But $85 dollars nice? Not sure about that just yet. If you have the money to spend on it, fine and well. But I don't think it's going to be the one piece that gets you into the A main, and you save $30, enough to buy a gallon of fuel. There are 3 chassis they have:

38528 - 3mm (?) RTR chassis. Don't do it. There's a reason it's $25
38544 - 3mm 6061 T6 chassis. Used on the Pro. This is teh one with the kit, and probably the best bet valuewise. They claim this is also the chassis used on the pro RTR, but a friend has one and that is DEFINATELY not the same chassis.
38545 - 3mm 7075 T6 chassis. This is what the team drivers use. It is a stiffer aluminum and has more cutouts, and the bevel edges are nice.

Like I said before, if they didn't send me the team chassis, I wouldn't have ordered it. It's nice, but necessary? Not until my skills warrant it. Would I get another one? Knowing me, probably. But I never claimed to be that bright!

Trumpster,
If you're going to replace a whole set of bearings, seriously consider getting ceramics. I ordered a full set from Acer Bearings (same kit as the LD3). I can't remember but I think the only one missing was a bearing for the clutch, and maybe one on the tranny (but I think the tranny bearings were the same. I'll have to look thru my invoices). The set ran around $80-$90, but they are so worth it, more so than the team chassis. Here's the link: http://www.acerracing.com/bearings.html
As for that one way, not sure about that. You'd have to press that bearing out. The gear holder would have it, but nirtohouse is out of stock, which would make it very hard to find. I did think about cutting that brace but didn't bother, as swapping the racks out took only 10 minutes.

au_Nightmare

Thats the one I was not sure how good it was so I got a couple, never had a failure though (touch wood)

nitrothugg

since CurveTracer put me on to the Hudy manual and looking at the mods you guys are doing i have been on a crusade to get every part on the car right.

the one issue i had that i could not get the bind out of was the steering links, all 3. the front arms never dropped by themselves under their own weight like the rear. the ball and cups were just too tight on one another.

my solution was to use some spare rear ball and socket rod ends as the steering links. i had to cut the steering rods down to fit the new ends but it was well worth it. the whole set-up screams durable now and there is absolutely no binding. now the shocks and suspension can run true.

au_Nightmare

Good work It all helps. In the end mine got too sloopy (years of use I guess) and where popping of in crashes so now I am running HPI ball and cups ATM. From memory they are just a bit larger (.2mm?) but do the job well .

CurveTracer

iTrader: (5)

Yea, this was the situation that I asked the thread about about in February. All of the ball cups were too tight. The front suspension would be very free until the ball cups were attached. It seemed like if the ball cups were loose enough the shock resistance would be very low also. They would pop off just taping a board, or another car.
If there is sufficient clearance for the front tire and wheels, this sounds like a useable mod.
I'd like to see it installed and possibly test drive it through the slalom ... Is that modified TZ still installed in your car?

nitrothugg

oh that TZ aint going no where my friend! (you know i said hyper .12)

BTW

if you guys have the tools to do it, can you measure your steering throw? i dont know what it was before i modded the links but now i max out at 18 degrees before it starts to bind. i'm using the toe gauge to measure this.