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Old 06-22-2007, 12:59 PM   #1456
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Have fun with that G4S. It is a pretty car (especially the limited edition version), and I have seen it run and run well, but I worry about parts support (kind of the same boat we're in now!). If your LHS has the parts, cool. I know Raceday Hobbies keeps a stash. But since Trinity is distributing them, that worries me.

CT: Which tires are you runnig out there? That's the one major component you didn't tell us. I'm running Kawahara 40/42s out here, with purple/copper springs, front swaybar flat, rear at about 45% angle. Front shocks ar ein the first hole of the tower and middle of the arm, rear shocks at the top hole on the shock tower, outer hole on the arm. Didn't have a problem with traction or with the rear stepping out of line. Then again, I've got a LOT of traction at my track.
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Old 06-22-2007, 01:28 PM   #1457
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There are quite a few guys that run the G4s at the track where I race. RayJ is there as well as a few others that I can go to for support and parts, if necessary. OFNA parts seem to be getting more and more scarce, especially the ones that you need in a hurry. Nitrohouse sometimes is even out of parts, and from what I understand, Raceday Hobbies usually stocks a ton of parts. So, hopefully I'll be in good shape.
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Old 06-22-2007, 02:00 PM   #1458
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I have found that calling Nitrohouse seems to work better than e-mail at times. When I was looking for gears, the website said they were backordered. When I called (and I'm sure they know me by name by now!) they told me they do actually have the gears, but in a limited supply right now. So far they have had just about everything that I have ordered from them. But I'm not so sure about how much stock they have left or if more is coming, since they are way more biased to their off road vehicles (as has always been the case).

As with any car, as long as you can get parts for it, go for it. Are you planning on getting that ED transmission for the G4?
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Old 06-22-2007, 02:46 PM   #1459
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Spenz,
I always call in my orders to Nitrohouse, I have them on speed dial. Usually I'm calling them as I'm leaving the track. Rob is starting to get to know me personally. Well, he's probably just a nice guy and acts like it, but thats okay.

Anyway, no I will probably not get the ED transmission for the G4s. The guy I'm buying it from was having issues with it and was telling me that every time that you want to change the gearing that you have to buy a new clutch bell. I'm interested in spending that much money every time that I want to change the gearing. Other than that, if someone convinces me otherwise, I may consider it. Also, from what I understand, the previous owner already has most of the K-Factory upgrades on the car, so I'm getting a hopped up model at a GREAT price.

The new G4+ looks sick and the guy I'm getting the car from already has his name on one of the numbers. I've heard that most of the parts for the G4s do not fit the G4+ so it could be difficult to get parts later on. Who knows, only time will tell.
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:25 PM   #1460
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I haven't had to call them while leaving the track, but I do have them in my phone! Never know when you need a part. As it stands, I'm ordering a new tranny next week. Figure I should just start from scratch
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Old 06-29-2007, 12:11 PM   #1461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
CT: Which tires are you runnig out there? That's the one major component you didn't tell us. ...
Spenz, the problem I was having was balance. My front springs were 30 lb. and my rear springs were 20 lb (F-purple/R-red). The rear could not get planted ... "hooked up". I reviewed my setup sheets from last summer also and arrived at a Purple/purple (30 lb/30 lb) combo which worked very well during that time.
The traction at Leisure Hours Raceway was low, so I needed a suspension setup that was more balanced. The purple/copper combo was not good as the purp/purp. I could also determine that a diff combo of F 50k/ R 20k was the better setup which provided better traction and throttle control.
I was too far off on balance (F/R) earlier in the season to see the difference.
Here is the setup that worked well for me at Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet.
Traction - low
tires 40/37 , and 40/30 (didn't seem to make that much of a difference)
setup listed in Front/Rear order
Front
springs purple/purple (30 lb/30/lb)
shock oil 60wt/50wt
shock upper middle hole/1st inner hole
shock lower 3rd hole (drilled one closer to wheel)/3rd outer hold
Diffs 50k/20k wt. silicone fluid
Sway bars flat/unconnected (due to low traction)
Roll center rear - low (upper hole)
caster stock 10 deg
camber -1.5/-2.5
toe -1/+2.5

Last weekend I raced the Midwest Series Detroit race and used the same setup but connected the rear sway bar. The cars performance was fantastic! The traction at the Detroit race was great and I was able to execute a right sweeper full throttle with no rear spinout. The turnin was very good. I was running 40 shore tires front and rear.
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:34 AM   #1462
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Default Need stronger diff screws

Well it finally happened, after a full day of 3 qualifying rounds and many practice laps I broke all four diff screws. They are broken 2/3 of the way down. The final 1/3 is still lodged in the diff case ( the plastic compatible locktite worked well). This happened at the end of the day. The diff gears and ring and pinion gears are ok. I know some CD3 racers have used 2x8mm screws. I am going to try and locate some stronger screws like stainless steel and try them. This just happened to the rear diff, the front diff is ok.
I was running 50k/20k diff fluid F/R. Until I locate a suitable screw I'll increase my rear diff fluid weight when traction is higher and maybe tighten up my clutch nut and or use my Mugen yellow clutch shoe.
What do you guys think??
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:23 PM   #1463
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Check your bearings while you're at it. When I snapped the screws in my one way last year, one of my bearings seized, causing that massive drivetrain failure. I'm not sure what screws were in your rear diff, but if I remember correctly, self tapping screws were used. If you can find some 2x6mm machine screws, that should do the trick. I used them and haven't had a problem yet.

As for the clutch, I'd run the yellow shoe anyway. It's a bit more consistent and grabs better. With the clutch nut, tighten or losen it depending on the track. If it's too tight and the track is slick, you will spin every time you hit the gas. But if you have a bunch of traction and need more punch out the corner, feel free to tighten that nut up.
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Old 07-05-2007, 12:35 PM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii View Post
Check your bearings while you're at it. When I snapped the screws in my one way last year, one of my bearings seized, causing that massive drivetrain failure. I'm not sure what screws were in your rear diff, but if I remember correctly, self tapping screws were used. If you can find some 2x6mm machine screws, that should do the trick. I used them and haven't had a problem yet.
Spenzalii
The screws I was using were definitely the self tapping ones. I had some machine screws loosening up and or backing all the way out in previous race outings so I thought the self tapping screws would hold the case and ring tighter. The machine screws that I had used were the ones that secure the front one way diff. You know the self tapping screws may not be as strong as the machine screws.
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:09 PM   #1465
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I like using the machine screws because they have a smaller pitch to the thread than the self tapping screw. In a new diff case, the threads would be tighter and not back out.
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Old 07-19-2007, 07:29 PM   #1466
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Default Hard springs - 2 speed

I now have a set of harder springs for my 2-speed. The part number is 38314 and they are blackish in color different from the sliver kit springs. I'll test teh hard springs with my TZ engine , hopefully this weekend, then i'll post my findings.
I just installed a new set of 2 speed clutch shoes. At first they stayed stuck in second, so I removed them, and smoothed one side with emery cloth to make the contours symetrical. Then 1.5 turns from baseline and the 2 speed was shifting, early ... but that is ok until I get to the track.

When I ran 6 gear diff in front and rear 50k/20k, the car just had a little more on-power understeer. Reducing the front to 40k worked better.
Now when I tried a 4 gear diff in front with 50k fluid and a 6 gear in rear with 20k or 30k (depending on traction) the car was pretty much neutral when on the power through the turns.
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:47 PM   #1467
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Good to know about those springs. I'll order a set when I place my next order, which should be pretty soon. I melted the rear diff (I think it was a bad set of spider gears, as they were properly shimmed, but lost teeth). Right now I have just the 4 gear diff in the rear, but I made one of my older diffs a solid diff just in case it goes before I get the new 6 gear set.

Since I hav ethe tranny shifting now, I'm going back tothe 48 tooth spur for a bit more giddie-up down that straight. That Ninja has no problem pulling it, let me tell you.
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Old 07-26-2007, 12:59 AM   #1468
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Maybe review the oil weight in the rear diff? If your killing diff gears sounds like to much diff action to me (or a bad set of gears like you said).....OR its leaked out....
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:42 PM   #1469
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Didn't leak out. I believe the oil was waaay too thin, which may have done them in. I usually run 100-120k in the rear. I may drop that down though. Hadn't had that happen before
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:32 PM   #1470
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Default Diffs

The last few race outings I have had very good reliability from the diffs. One car with a 4 gear Front and 6 gear rear and the other with 6/6 combo. I have been changing the fluid a little each race outing when I fine tune the Fluid weight for traction. I also have been using some of the .2 or .3 mm shims where needed to ensure the parts don't have end play.

We will see how well the diffs hold up this weekend when I extract more engine power.
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