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Old 04-08-2007, 08:40 PM   #1396
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hmm I thought mine was 25deg left and right. Maybe it was 20? hmmm
(thats middle hole on the steering knuckle)
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:00 AM   #1397
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ok, because of the modded links being a little bigger, i had to use the outer most holes. i do not know what effect that will cause.
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:10 AM   #1398
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Not a bad idea on the links. I know a few other cars (like the MTX-4 and 720) use that kind of setup on their steering arms. You could probably use those and make sure they are the correct length. If the ball ends are too long and you're upgrading anyway. you could also order some shorter turnbuckles from Lundsford. Not sure why you would need the outer holes, though. Unless you were using a larger screw, it should still fit in whichever hole you have on the knuckle. At most, you may have to tap it out a bit. Remember, you change the amount of steering throw you have when you switch which hole you are using.

FYI for all those using big high power motors: you may have to swap the spring in your 2 speed. At the track yesterday, no matter how much I screwed the 2 speed down it shifted early with that Ninja. It pulled it with the gearing I had, but it could have been a bit quicker had the shift point been set right. I'm checking to see if the MTX-4 springs will fit. If so, I will let you know.
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Old 04-09-2007, 03:30 PM   #1399
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What tuned pipe is best to use for my STS D3R?

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Old 04-09-2007, 03:39 PM   #1400
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I'd give the Skyline VR pipe a try. The Vantage pipe is also quite nice (get the newer one with the reinforced stinger for the FW05)

RDLogics has a few pipes, but not too sure how they work. The one with the reinforced stinger probably is a bit heavy, as the reinforced part is HUGE! But they aldo have a legal and outlaw pipe, so you may have some choices there.
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:58 PM   #1401
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using the middle hole was too much of an angle for the new links and that caused binding. now that i'm thinking about it, i wonder if that may be the reason why the stock set-up binds so bad.
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Old 04-10-2007, 06:45 AM   #1402
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any comments on the floating body mount? I just installed mine last night during my clean up and rebuild process.

I also just installed the CNC sway bars on the rear, still have the stock in the front. They are much easier to adjust.

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:15 AM   #1403
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FYI for all those using big high power motors: you may have to swap the spring in your 2 speed. At the track yesterday, no matter how much I screwed the 2 speed down it shifted early with that Ninja. It pulled it with the gearing I had, but it could have been a bit quicker had the shift point been set right. I'm checking to see if the MTX-4 springs will fit. If so, I will let you know.[/QUOTE]


Spenzalli's right on the high powered motors. Placed an LLT3 today and the car wouldn't shift at all. I actually broke the clutch shoe carrier into 3 pieces I'll be installing a new one soon. Let us know on the MTX-4 springs Spenz.

Just a question guys, can we actually use the MTX-3 pinions (I'm after 20 and 26 tooth ones) on the centax? If so, which MTX-3, the standard or the Prospec (I heard they were different). Quite hard to find Ofna or hongnor gears here in MTX-4 country so if I get confirmation, then I'll order the pinions from a Mugen supplier here. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:53 AM   #1404
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That's a very good question. I think the original MTX-3 gears were 1.0 pitch, not 0.8 (I'm trying to look now). The Prospec may have had the correct pitch, but not sure on the threads for the clutchbell.

EDIT: Sitting in front of a computer most of the day helps, let me tell you! The MTX-3 Prospec does run the 0.8 pitch gear, and they do have the size pinions you are looking for. Now, as far as whether they will fit that Ofna clutch bell, that's anyone's guess. If they have them at a shop, give it a try. Since that model is discontinued and the MTX-4 isn't geared nearly as close, they may be as scarce as the Ofna pinions.


I wonder if Kyosho gears would be a better choice. Since they have a similar setup, the gearing has to be pretty close. I know we have a few FW-05s running around this year; I'll have to investigate and let you know.

EDIT: Looks like they too run the 0.8 pitch gear, but I could only find a manual for the RTR. I'll see if I can find the RR manual and see what they have there.
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Old 04-10-2007, 06:51 PM   #1405
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Thanks for the info Spenz. I'll try the Kyosho pinions if I find some as well. Any news on the 2speed clutch springs you were investigating?
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Old 04-12-2007, 02:44 PM   #1406
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Recommend rubber shielded or metal shield bearings?
If I go rubber, I would assume that I would want to go with the ceramic bearings to help keep it smoother instead of the metal bearings.

I really want to get these ordered, but still am not 100% on what I should get.

Also, does anyone have any comments on the floating body mount?

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2007, 06:06 PM   #1407
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Well, you already know how I feel about ceramics. If you have to replac eteh bearings, get them. They may seem expensive, but trust me, you won't regret it.

As for the floating body mount, it does provide a lot of downforce. Maybe too much, unless you're using a lola body. I had it and took it off.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:20 PM   #1408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madcat prime
Thanks for the info Spenz. I'll try the Kyosho pinions if I find some as well. Any news on the 2speed clutch springs you were investigating?
No dice on getting those springs to work. They are a bit wider than the stock spring. What I may do is buy a set of tranny shoes and try to ream the hole to make them fit. Maybe the MTX3 spring will fit (tried MRX4 and MTX4, no good)
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Old 04-19-2007, 01:35 PM   #1409
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Well, that spring ain't gonna work. 3 different springs, a new set of clutch shoes and no dice. I'll look and see if the Kyosho ones may do the trick.
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:55 AM   #1410
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Guys i just installed a picco red dot in my cd3 pro kit.... what do u think the outcome is gonna b.... think i could run around the v one rrr......
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