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Old 03-18-2007, 11:11 PM   #1366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurveTracer
Spenzalii,
I made a mistake ... ok it was late when I copied the info from my setup sheet in my book to the message I was typing up, and I was out of town.
The Front tires are 40 shore and the Rear tires are 37 shore. All other setup parameters are correct.
The diff fluid is correct Front 10k, Rear 30k. I have not increased the front diff fluid weight yet, but I suspect that I will introduce more understeer to this particular setup. When I get some results, I'll give the group an update.
The weights are lightened with two holes in each of them.
Now that makes more sense. The only worry I have with running a lighter siff fluid up front is the greater chance of the diff unloading on the front tires (never a good thing). I remember when running a 6 gear diff I ran the thickest thing I could find (120k, then 300k, which was a lot like sticky paste). But again, if it works for you, go for it.

Delta,
The Mugen spring, weights and shoe will work on the Ofna setup. No go on the clutch bell, though, so don't bend it up changing the gears. I had 1/2 a mind to try the Orion clutch for the CRF, but I don't know if I will need it. I don't think the Ninja revs as high and hard as that Wasp CRF.
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:56 PM   #1367
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Default High Droop values?

How does a droop value which is greater than the amount the suspension would naturally fall, (with the sway bars attached) benefit the suspension?
I mean the CD3 suspension can be set with a droop of say 4mm, but the springs will only push the suspension 2mm when the chassis is lifted. The suspension has no spring action to push it to the full 4mm. So is a droop setting which is larget than the distance the springs will move the A arms ineffective?
Any thoughts anyone??
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:18 PM   #1368
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Talking

ouch my brain hurts

you might want to post that as a general question in the main forum cause i'm interested in knowing
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:50 PM   #1369
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Default CD3 Team Chassis??

Hey Spenzalii,
Do you have any feedback on the CD3 team chassis?, or has 301 been too wet this week?
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:16 PM   #1370
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Too wet and too cold! While it has warmed up the last 2 days, I've been at work. T&T is supposed to be this Sunday, so I may get to put it on the track then, provided I can get the Ninja broken in (haven't had time to do that either). I should have some idea a few races in the season.

I honestly would not have bought that chasis if I didn't get the wrong one sent by mistake. That's what I get for not verifying the part numbers with Nitrohouse. But I had a little bit of money to spend, so it wasn't that big a deal. I figure with a good baseline setup and the right tires, you may or may not notice the difference.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:32 AM   #1371
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Methinks that Ninja is goin to rip! I managed to get a few tanks thru the engine and hope to get some track running break in tanks later today after work. That Vantage pipe has a evil 'bbbbrrrrraaapppptttt' sound to it. Can't wait to see what it looks and sounds like once it's ready to go

Test and Tune was crazy on Sunday. There had to be at least 70+ people out. They had a combined 9 heats set up for 1/10, 1/8, sportsman 1/10 and 1/7 scale (Inferno GT, Landmaxx, Ofna GTP, etc). That class looks like great fun. Now it almost makes sense to get that DM-1!
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:25 PM   #1372
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i am soooo jealous you guys have these great tracks to run at
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:57 PM   #1373
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diff action baby

hey guys,

so i got 2 complete spare diffs. both are the 4 gears which is fine. i currently have a 6 gear with 30k and then the oneway. what oils do you guys think i should pre-fill my two spares with? i have 10k, 30k, 50k, and 100k to work with. also, do you think i should fill the 6 gear with something lighter? i remember CurveTracer you mentioned the oil differences and how they affect the 6 vs 4 gear setup.
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:10 PM   #1374
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I always ran no less than 100k with a 6 gear diff. 30k and lower felt like 3k. Nightmare should have some more input on that.
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:42 PM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
hey guys,

so i got 2 complete spare diffs. both are the 4 gears which is fine. i currently have a 6 gear with 30k and then the oneway. what oils do you guys think i should pre-fill my two spares with? i have 10k, 30k, 50k, and 100k to work with. also, do you think i should fill the 6 gear with something lighter? i remember CurveTracer you mentioned the oil differences and how they affect the 6 vs 4 gear setup.
Greetings Nitrothug,
I am going to assume that you are looking for neutral handling with respect to traction. Why not begin with both at 50k or the rear at 30K, and front at 50k. Then adjust the fluid weight according to the on power and off power mid cornering performance. Ensure that all of your suspension settings (shocks, position, oil) are done first.
On power
If the car is understeering then decrease the front or increase the rear.
if the car is oversteering the increase the front or decrease the rear.
Off power, just the opposite.
Remember you are adjusting the fluid weight to your driving style, traction on the track etc.
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Old 03-28-2007, 12:34 AM   #1376
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Its really going to depend on your traction. I used to run 100k in my 6 gear diff but now run a 50k/grease mix just because the rear was just too loose.

You want it as thick as you can without it becoming a problem during braking/acceleration. Build a few up at different levels (I have in my pit box) and its easy to try different fluids on race day then.

The last diff rebuild I lubed shims with real grease and managed to fit two shims behind the internal gears (that eclip onto the drive shafts) was smoother. Have not done much racing since though so cant provide feedback on if it helped the diffs last longer. (Worn shims = diff locks up)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
I always ran no less than 100k with a 6 gear diff. 30k and lower felt like 3k. Nightmare should have some more input on that.
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Old 03-28-2007, 10:25 AM   #1377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
(Worn shims = diff locks up)
That is very true, i havent been able to get the new shims and my old ones are worn out so i stripped teeth off the internals last race, put new internals AGAIN, but i put in another o-ring behind the shim as Curvetracer suggested and all is well now hopefully

next race is on sunday
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:34 PM   #1378
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Definately make sure those diff gears are shimmed up. Nothing fun about the rear diff locking up. Happened too many times before.
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Old 03-31-2007, 02:47 PM   #1379
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Default diffs

By using 50k front & 30k rear does it make the car more stable from the rear or not? I am using an STS D3R engine. At the moment I am using 30 front and 30k rear with shock oil 40 rear and 50 front and yellow springs all round.

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Old 04-01-2007, 09:06 PM   #1380
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The Cliff Notes answer goes something like this: Thicker fluid = more on power steering. Thinner = off power and traction. You want the front to turn, especially out of a turn and on power, so the oil would be a bit thicker up front. The rears are mainly driving the car forward, so to aid traction, you have the thinner oil in the back (along with the wider tires).

Here's a link to an article on diff tuning. It's mainly on 1/8 scale diffs, but you should be able to use some of the principles in the article:
http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=24&page=1

On an aside, I had to fix a buddy's CD3 RTR Pro this weekend. Been a long time since I worked with the 4 gear diff. The 6 gear definately reacts to the diff oils differently than the 4. 120k in a 6 gear feels much thicker than a 4 gear, where it just felt like water. It was better than the grease that was in there, though, so he's got 120k up front and 30k in the back. the crown gear on the rear diff had also given out, so I gave him one of my older cnc ones I had in my box (I still have 3 new ones). Been a while since I used that Force engine too. I had no clue they had a SG shaft in that thing now. It's still pig slow from a dead start and looks to be geared for top speed rather than acceleration. Maybe I should have changed the gears for him too. In comparison, the Ninja, even with the light (maybe 8 tanks) break in it had, is silly fast.
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