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Old 03-02-2007, 02:41 PM   #1306
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The original clutch? Yikes. I hope you at least got the Mugen or Ofna 1.1 springs for it. You should be able to adjust it much better with that power clutch. Word to the wise, though: get that Ofna clutch tool. Trust me on this. I ended up replacing the adjuster nut and the clutch bell trying to adjust the clutch without it.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:42 AM   #1307
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clutch nut size?

can one of you guys with a power clutch do me a favor?

on my pro, i have a GS Vision Pro power clutch. my question is, what is the nut size of the clutch nut from Ofna power clutch? for instance, the one i have now is 5/16.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:52 AM   #1308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
.... on my pro, i have a GS Vision Pro power clutch. my question is, what is the nut size of the clutch nut from Ofna power clutch? for instance, the one i have now is 5/16.
The pilot shaft nut part # 35300, is a 6 pt. 10mm size. (this is the nut that secures teh flywheel.
The spring adjuster nut just has two slots for adjusting engagement.
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:18 PM   #1309
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does the one-piece engine mount sit the engine lower to the chassis then the other mounts?
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Old 03-04-2007, 09:46 PM   #1310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
does the one-piece engine mount sit the engine lower to the chassis then the other mounts?
Yes it does, remember how my son's car would not initially engage the starter wheel as well at the beginning o fthe day? The engine sits up a little higher with the kit mounts. The one piece engine mount works well. The cost is steep but it is worth it, for me.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:34 PM   #1311
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The one piece engine mount is worth it, i like mine, although i did have to put different screws on the bottom hole's of the backplate to clear the one piece engine mount, could have also filed the the engine mount aswell tho, Curvetracer did you have this problem?
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:48 PM   #1312
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what engine you have?
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Old 03-05-2007, 12:27 AM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
does the one-piece engine mount sit the engine lower to the chassis then the other mounts?
Depends on what mounts you are talking about.. CD3/LD3 RTR mounts - yes the one-peice is lower. LD3/CD3 pro mounts - no they the same height but the one peice mount does align your engine great and gear meshing becomes soo much easier.
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:06 AM   #1314
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Quote:
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what engine you have?
Hyper .12, but i will find out this weekend if i can get my hands on a JP tuned Novarossi for a good price or its the OS .12TZ for me.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:49 AM   #1315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
The one piece engine mount is worth it, i like mine, although i did have to put different screws on the bottom hole's of the backplate to clear the one piece engine mount, could have also filed the the engine mount aswell tho, Curvetracer did you have this problem?
Yes, I had this problem with all of my engines. I modified the lower backplate screws on my Picco .12 ROAR engine, but I found that the interference was there for all of my engines, Picco, OS TR etc. So I modified the mount with my dremel tool.
Five minutes of work, and all engines fit with no interference.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:58 AM   #1316
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Just for everyones info - STS Series engines (D5, D3R and D5R) fit the one-peice engine mount with no mods done.
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:56 PM   #1317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
The one piece engine mount is worth it, i like mine, although i did have to put different screws on the bottom hole's of the backplate to clear the one piece engine mount, could have also filed the the engine mount aswell tho, Curvetracer did you have this problem?
No problem with Nova based motors and the one piece mount either. Can't say for an OS, Picco or Hyper. Maybe when I pull the motor for the hotness I (hopefully) will have soon I'll see if an older OS I have fits.

Like Nightmare said, the RTR versions are slightly higher to clear the pull start. If you have a OS pullstart, you will still need a spacer of some sort to clear the pull start and the chasis. The RTR should also have a slightly larger flywheel to still allow bump starting. I know my LD3 had a larger flywheel and there was a smaller one for the SG shaft engine, which usually was a bump start. If memory serves, I still ended up using the original flywheel since I had the stock (higher) mounts and it would not touch the starter wheel.

Having the one piece mount does make it easier to get the gear mesh correct, but I'm not sure if it is a must have item unlike, say, the aluminum arm mounts or the CNC ring & pinion gear. If you have the pro mounts, they will do the job, but will take longer to get it right.
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Old 03-05-2007, 05:51 PM   #1318
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Default CD3 Team Chassis

Has anyone had a chance to drive a car with a Team Chassis?
Is this just a stiffer chassis?
Hey spenzalii, did you purchase one??
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:11 PM   #1319
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Yes, by accident. It's made from 3mm 7075 T-6 grade aluminum. There are a few more cutouts in the chassis, and the rear where the arm mounts and diff are come at an angle rather being straight. I had to adjust the rear starter box pegs a bit. Both the front and rear of the chassis are beveled, which makes the screws for the rear arm mount and the front bumper sit out slightly. Whether that will affect anything or not is unclear. Then again, if the car gets low enough to get to the screws anyway I have other problems to worry about.

I'll snap some pics of it this week and post them up.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:28 PM   #1320
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Default *RELISTED* with some changes ofna ld3 rtr

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-ld3-rtr-1-1...em110099896100

thanx........hammadown
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