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Old 01-27-2007, 10:48 AM   #1246
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Thumbs up revived tz in my cd3

hey curvetracer,

you remember last season when i had what appeared to be too much compression in my tz. i mean it was hard to start on the starter box, i was going through plugs more then i would have liked, and when i dissassembled it i had scorching on the top of my piston?

guess what the issue was?

i had the wrong shim sizes installed the whole last summer. somehow i had put on 2 thinner shims from a stash i had. last weekend i took it apart and measured the shim sizes and realized this. i found the 2 correct (stock) sizes and now i can turn the crank (with the flywheel installed). i couldnt do this before.

this was bothering the hell out of me last summer because i had it for 2 seasons and this past summer it seemed to get "tighter".
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:26 PM   #1247
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Default OS TZ head shims

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
hey curvetracer,

you remember last season when i had what appeared to be too much compression in my tz. ...guess what the issue was?

i had the wrong shim sizes installed the whole last summer.
Too high a compression, eating up glow plugs, difficult tuning.
Hey at least you determined what the problem was, now you can enjoy the engine this season.
You know I bet my TR engine should have at least one shim according to the manual. I purchased it used and it had none installed. That is probably where the high compression exhaust note orriginates. It sounds so mean on the track. It does however turn over with good pinch at the top.

Get that TZ installed in the car, and get ready to fly in Midwest Series.
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:30 PM   #1248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Tanto
[B][I]So should I start 30000 front and 10000 rear? I will be using a STS D3R. Then I will see what the results are. I will let you know.
Joe,
What I meant was that for my driving style, having the higher viscosity fluid in the rear diff allows easier tuning for me. Providing a slight bit of understeer, so my target mix is say Front 30K and rear 30k to 60k.

I have seen people reverse the settings with good results.
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Old 01-27-2007, 08:04 PM   #1249
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Yes diff fluids VERY important. Get it wrong and you will be chasing your tail like I was after a diff rebuild once. Went too thick in rear and made it too tail happy. I think I ended up using a 50k silicone oil/auto grease mix? forget now but yes it was great then
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:17 AM   #1250
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Hey guys,

Just spent the weekend re-building my CD3, Things are much better now, the drivetrain is very free, and thanks to Curvetracer's tips on the "notchy" diff it is as smooth as a babies butt now (thanks curvetracer!) also needed new 10t gears in the rear diff.
all the bearings are lubed and everything has been set properly on my set up board. Shocks were re-filled with 40w all round. it's ready for another day at the track

Nightmare i have 50k in my rear diff and it was working a treat last time at the track (only had one practice day with the 50k in the rear, but i like it alot)
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Old 01-28-2007, 01:57 PM   #1251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurveTracer
Joe,
What I meant was that for my driving style, having the higher viscosity fluid in the rear diff allows easier tuning for me. Providing a slight bit of understeer, so my target mix is say Front 30K and rear 30k to 60k.

I have seen people reverse the settings with good results.

thanks mate will try this formula and will see

Regards
Joe F
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:02 AM   #1252
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Default Ball link tight fit

I was checking out my front suspension operation and with the shocks removed, the ball links on the steering turnbuckles fit too tight.
What techniques have you racers used to loosen up the plastic ball links?
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:02 PM   #1253
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How tight is 'too tight'? You don't want to loosen them up too much then they pop off during the race at the slightest tap. You may try polishing the ball studs, or using some dry lube on the inside of the ball cups.

I'm about 80? done with the rebuild. Replaced and or relubed all the bearings (ceramics are the way to go, believe me) and it spins smooth. Swapped the chasis out for the 7075 one I ordered on accident. Replaced that rear diff 16t crown gear and ordered a few more, since I seem to have worn those out last year. I need to get it on the setup board and straighten it out. I ordered another carb for the NovaRossi, which I will probably run unti I decide what motor to go with this year. Hopefully this Vantage pipe will work out. If not, it's back to the Skyline.

There looks to be a few FW-05s on the track this year. I'd like to see how the CD3 compares.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:34 AM   #1254
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the steering ball links i would polish like suggested but thats it. they will pop everytime you tap something if you warp them in any way.

its funny you bought this up because i was looking for some captured (screw holds them in place) ones to replace the stock parts.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:39 AM   #1255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
...Replaced and or relubed all the bearings (ceramics are the way to go, believe me) and it spins smooth. ...

Hopefully this Vantage pipe will work out. If not, it's back to the Skyline...
did you get the ceramics as a complete set for the car or did you get them individually?

and where did you get the skyline pipe? i have seen this pipe mentioned in another thread with positive feedback. but those were people who had it for the other side of the car.
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Old 01-30-2007, 12:51 PM   #1256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrothugg
did you get the ceramics as a complete set for the car or did you get them individually?

and where did you get the skyline pipe? i have seen this pipe mentioned in another thread with positive feedback. but those were people who had it for the other side of the car.
I ordered a set for an LD3 from Acer Bearings. You will need the clutch bearings separately, but the other bearings are the same.

As for the pipe, I believe I got it from Monotuning. Look for the FW05 pipe which should do the trick. Strangely enough, the stock Ofna pipe took a better hit than the skyline pipe. Either that or I wacked the car a lot harder with the Skyline pipe.
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:56 AM   #1257
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AAA high capacity battery pack??

Does anyone know of a high capacity (1400 mah) battery pack with the physical profile of a AAA hump battery pack. Currently I am using a 1400 mah 2/3 C pack in my CD3's. I am hooked on the 1400 mah capacity and like having the reserve capacity for a day of racing. I modified my radio tray to accept the larger battery pack, but I'd like to return to the smaller profile pack as soon as possible.
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:12 PM   #1258
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Curvetracer i think the biggest capacity AAA cells are 1000mah, i looked around for bigger capacity batteries but am not keen to cut the radio tray so i ended up buying another 3 aaa hump packs so now i have 5 for a day at the track, i can easily get away with just 2 for the whole day though.
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:37 AM   #1259
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Default lipo

i was trying to tell you last year - lipo! last season i experimented with a flat 800mah pack plugged into a novak voltage regulator. since i had other things going on i never really got a chance to test it after long wrongs but instead just threw it on a balance charger.

well now i upgraded baby! thanks to ebay, i got a 1100mah pack for $16 shipped.

it was a little bigger so that created a challenge but i got it to fit cleanly under the deck held in place with a couple of passes of electrical tape. the regulator is mounted ontop with double sided tape and a thin cable tie for extra security. a lot of the extra wire i have laying flat under the battery with that being secured with double sided tape.

it looks really clean. the only issue i have now is to figure out how i should mount/secure the charge lead and the on/off switch for the voltage regulator.

the pics look crappy so sorry guys.
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Ofna Cd-3-dcfn0027.jpg   Ofna Cd-3-dcfn0024.jpg  
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Old 02-08-2007, 08:41 AM   #1260
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Interesting setup there. I am using a 1000mah aaa pack which doesn't seem to give me a problem. I always top it off after the qualifying rounds anyway so it's ready for the main, so it's not really a problem.

The rebuild is done. Now if that Ninja motor is finally released I'll be set. I need to get a compressor and paint this Stratus up for the new year too.
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