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Old 12-10-2006, 05:20 PM   #1201
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Default Any success with anti-squat??

Has anyone had success using the anti squat on the CD3?
I have raised the rear axle mounts at the front position 1, and 2 mm but
did not see any decrease in squat or an increase in rear traction.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:33 AM   #1202
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Default The Rebuild Begins

Another offseason, another rebuild. I ordered up another chasis (accidentaly got the 7075 chasis, $30 more than I wanted to pay, but what can you do), bumper that I destroyed, arms, knuckles, etc. Getting the Acer bearings that seized (still not sure how that happened) and the bearing cleaner and oil for the other bearings. Ordered some ti tie-rods (both the rears were bent, go figure). All I need now to run the car is a new motor. Hopefully it will be ready to go by the end of the month.

I'm still not sure if I'll run it this year. Too many people running Mugen in this area (plus Chris has all the Mugen pats you can want at the shop). At the same time, most of the problems I had last year weren't because the car wasn't competetive, but because other things went to hell (engines, servos), so I didn't get that much runtime with the car. I still have a few months to see what's what.

In any case, if you're on the east coast, you have to check the track out. C Whit and the gang already had a world class facility, but they just resurfaced it, so it's smooth as glass. With the mildish winter we're having, people are still at the track most weekends. It's just that good.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:51 PM   #1203
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Good to hear Spenzalii, i gave my CD3 a full working over this week, and it payed off big time, car was more dialed than it has ever been Had a blast at the track on sat. 50 000w oil in the rear diff made a huge difference.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:59 PM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
Good to hear Spenzalii, i gave my CD3 a full working over this week, and it payed off big time, car was more dialed than it has ever been Had a blast at the track on sat. 50 000w oil in the rear diff made a huge difference.
Are you running a 4 or 6 gear diff in the rear??
And what is your front diff configuration - gear or oneway?
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Old 01-14-2007, 02:31 PM   #1205
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CurveTracer, i have a one way in the front and 4 gear diff in the back. this is for a big fast track.
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Old 01-14-2007, 04:06 PM   #1206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Another offseason, another rebuild. I ordered up another ..... Ordered some ti tie-rods (both the rears were bent, go figure). .

.
I switched to 4mm x 20 mm turnbuckles on the rear. They are much stronger. I drilled out the suspension arms with a 1/8 drill bit. There are steel and titanium versions available. The steel version I got from Tower Hobbies. The titanium version I purchased direct from Lunsford racing.
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Old 01-14-2007, 07:38 PM   #1207
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I got the 3mm lundsford ti rods front and back. Once I clean and relube the bearings, I'll get everything back together. No huge rush.
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:02 PM   #1208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurveTracer
I switched to 4mm x 20 mm turnbuckles on the rear. They are much stronger. I drilled out the suspension arms with a 1/8 drill bit. There are steel and titanium versions available. The steel version I got from Tower Hobbies. The titanium version I purchased direct from Lunsford racing.

you're keeping this thread alive i see.

i did some of the stuff that we talked about a few months earlier like i reamed out the hinge pin slots. i then used a 1/8 bit as well in order to use the turnbuckles from my old g4. they are twice as thick but about the same length.
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:17 PM   #1209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
I got the 3mm lundsford ti rods front and back. Once I clean and relube the bearings, I'll get everything back together. No huge rush.
I had some 3mm turnbuckles as spares and tried them. They tended to bend out of the arms when a high roll center is used because screwing them out to reset the rear camber left too much space in the suspension arm.

I hope you race the CD3 this season. I am a beginner and have found the car to be very durable. A lot of the hop-ups that other more expensive cars need (like metallic brake pads) are already included in the CD3 Pro Kit.

Like Delta9, I am using a 4 gear diff in the rear, but also currently a 4 gear diff in the front. I am using silicone fluid (30k rear and 10k front). When the season starts I may move up to 50k fluid in the rear when the traction is good.
My car responds well to suspension changes but the diffs is an area that I need to experiment with.
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:21 PM   #1210
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Greetings nitrothug,
Hey are you going to keep the 6 gear diff in the rear? If so what weight fluid are you going to use??
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:28 PM   #1211
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i'm going to keep the 6 in, atleast to start. i just opened it up to inspect it and it looks fine. i used 30k to refill it, thats what i put in it at the end of last season (i forgot how it felt though).

i plan on getting at least 2 maybe 3 more complete diffs with different oils in them.

do you know how that graphite shock tower upgrade mounts, i dont get it?
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:37 PM   #1212
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Default graphite shock tower

I am not sure, but there was a CD3 thread on radio control zone that had pictures of a fully optioned CD3, ...
Hey Delta9 was that your car???
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:56 PM   #1213
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Yes Curvetracer that was my car, its changed a bit since, gone to the stock shock mounts in the front as they are MUCH stronger, still using the rear graphite shock towers.

Nitro Thugg the Carbon towers have that alloy piece that goes ontop of the diff case then the carbon bit gets screwed into that on each side. There is only a 1gram weight saving, not the best hop up if you ask me. better to get the hop up drive shafts, the floating rear body mounts are also a nice hop up for the CD3
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:55 AM   #1214
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Movement on the CD3... WTF

Thought everyone had dumped it and moved onto better pastures

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Old 01-15-2007, 10:11 AM   #1215
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better pastures lol.

nope, curvetracer put me on to it after i gave up on my R40 and mongoose (1st gen sport version) last september, so i'm really late to it. the thing i like about it is the shaft drive. it's easier to setup a friction free car. then the layout is a plus to me too. i don't feel like i have to cram anything anywhere to fit. nice clean lines. the pro model also included things that are extra on some kits.

there are minuses i'm sure but for now it suits me and my style.

now i'm not an a-main driver so i'm not going to preach that this car is top 3 or something like that but it can be competitive.
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