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Old 08-24-2006, 02:19 AM   #1126
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Thanks au_Nightmare, will test it out this weekend. Im going to need some more shims aswell, as there are only two in the diff at the moment, but the manual calls for 3, which side are you guys putting the shims? the side with the gear?
thanks for the tips
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:30 PM   #1127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
Im in Joburg, you from here?

Yea i'm from durban i run at dmcc [southway]
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:37 PM   #1128
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Originally Posted by serpentrush
Yea i'm from durban i run at dmcc [southway]
I have seen pics of the track it looks awesome, maybe i will bring my car down in the holidays and give it a go. been wondering what the performance would be like at the coast. How long you been racing?
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Old 08-25-2006, 03:22 AM   #1129
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No, im talking about inside the diff, not the ones that sit on the outside of the diff. With the outside ones I shim so there is the smallest amount of backlash (as with any gears). Normally thats 2 on the bevel gear side and 1 on other.
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:16 AM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
No, im talking about inside the diff, not the ones that sit on the outside of the diff. With the outside ones I shim so there is the smallest amount of backlash (as with any gears). Normally thats 2 on the bevel gear side and 1 on other.
Ok i see now, lol, where inside the diff did u put the shim? hope the LHS has the shims, on my way to go pick up some stuff, received my new chassis and dogbones today aswell
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Old 08-25-2006, 07:09 AM   #1131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
Ok i see now, lol, where inside the diff did u put the shim? hope the LHS has the shims, on my way to go pick up some stuff, received my new chassis and dogbones today aswell
If you pull the diff apart you will see 2 larger sized gears held by an e-clip to the drive cups. The shim is in between the gear and the o-ring that is recessed in the diff housing and ring gear.

I may get a new chasis at the end of the season. Have the car nice and clean for next year (or when the indoor track opens, whichever happens first). I have a slew of parts to rebuild the drivetrain coming today. I'll also replace a few of the cva dogbones (2 of them don't seem to be spinning true) and the transmission/brake holder. 2 of the screws aren't making contact with the upper half, and I don't want to risk it coming loose in a race and taking out the tranny and brakes. I'll probably order the aluminum piece later on as well.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:53 AM   #1132
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Originally Posted by Delta9
Ok i see now, lol, where inside the diff did u put the shim? hope the LHS has the shims, on my way to go pick up some stuff, received my new chassis and dogbones today aswell
as spenzalii said, between the gear and oring. One of my diffs "locked" up during racing, well, the car was a handfull during the day and I only noticed the rear diff was locked up at the end of the day.

When I took the diff apart the shims had worn away (the diff had many hours of use on it). When reassembling I used automotive grease on the shims hoping this extends the life of them. I also thought I'd try more shims in (maybe its only because the gears are not new i was able to put more in)
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:18 PM   #1133
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Ok thanks for the tips guys, there is a shim there already, its very tight, getting that e-clip on is murder lol, all seems much smoother since i rebuilt it and is behaving as it should now.
Will be testing it out tomorrow (weather permitting)
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:50 PM   #1134
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3 hours and 2 beers later, I see that my statement of catastrophic drivetrain failure was not an exageration. Something in each part of the drivetrain needed replacing. Both small bevel gears were toast. The front diff is locked (I'll look at that later, as I put the one way back). The drive cup at the rear was partially melted and needed to be Dremeled off. 2 of the screws in the tranny holder were bent, so the holder needed to be Dremeled off as well. I regreased all the cv joints and replaced 2 of the dogbones, rethreaded the rear swaybar mount, and replaced the rear shock adjusters, which had a bad habit of backing off and causing the rear of the car to drag. I also upgraded to the aluminum drive shafts, just because I think they are lighter and definately look better (same gun metal color they ano'ed everything else in). The servo was installed, but a quick look at the clutch revealed one thing I do not have. It seems the clutch adjusting nut is partially stripped, so the clutch spring has no tension. Could be one very good reason it wanted to flame out in the main. Hopefully the shop will have one when I go get some gas tomorrow.

Good thing the points series is over (and the misses is outof town!)
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:13 PM   #1135
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Took both cars out for a spin yesterday. LD3 hooked up well, especially considering I haven't done much with the gears in some time. I may take them out and relube them tomorrow. The CD3 rund just fine now. I managed to get the clutch nut on and all is well. May have to back it out a little. I can say there is a definate difference in the freeness of the drivetrain. Not sure if it's the one way, the ceramic bearings or the combination of both, but it definately feels much more free than the LD3. I'll crack the diff cases and make sure the mesh is still good, and go from there.

Trophey race coming up on the 15-17. Last race before they resurface the track. Now I have to decide whether to swap motors (after I get the pipes out of the freezer). I had the NSR12 in the CD3. It spools nice and smooth, almost like an electric motor. Never sounds like it winds out, though. Maybe the gearing. But the RB in the LD3 looks to have been worked. I pulled the crank from an old NovaMega than I had sent out to be worked, so it has some cuts in it. The sleeve looks to have been massaged before I got the motor, and there is the turbo cut in the head button and backplate. All I know is it still sticks on TDC (only about 10 tanks thru from break in) and it SCREAMS. This with a bunch of smoke and oil, since it isn't close to being leaned out. With the NSR having it's new p/s/r, it's not like it's old either. But I have a feeling I may give that RB some more practice runs and make the swap, at least for the race. I'll end up changing that tranny in the LD3, I can see it now
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Old 08-30-2006, 12:37 AM   #1136
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Good to hear spenzalii, i still need to take my diff out sometime this week as its feeling very rough, must also put the new chassis on still, then set everything up nicely, its hard eyeballing everything, i wish i had a set up board, would make my life so much easier.

Must still order my front 2 way diff, its hard to practice in the parking lot with alot of obstacles that require constant braking
still getting used to the whole touring car thing. but i must say im really enjoying it, I still got so much to learn about setups
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Old 08-30-2006, 10:26 AM   #1137
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You can still do that with a one way. Just set the brakes so you get maximum braking just before they lock up. After that, it's just a matter of changing your driving style. You end up braking sooner and becoming smoother with the one way to keep it from spinning. Remember, smooth is fast.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:49 PM   #1138
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Maybe its the slight tweak in the chassis thats making it hard, well i just need to put the new one on and test it, thats actually why i held out on buying the front 2 way diff with the last order. i will try it again this weekend after the swop and see how it goes.
My rear diff is also acting funny, didnt get a chance to tear it down last weekend so i will be doing that this weekend, its feeling very rough and not acting like it should. could also be the the reason for spinning out under braking even though i have dialed out most the brakes so the wheels dont lock at all.
I might be asking alot of questions this weekend, lol
thanks for the help Spenzalii
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Old 09-01-2006, 03:01 AM   #1139
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Best bet is if you have a radio that you can adjust the end travel with easy on the fly (I adjust mine with Thumb on JR R1). That way if traction changes for the worse during the day you can adjust the max brakes so you don't loose control

Spen - you didnt damage your Skyline pipe? I only just got mine
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:30 AM   #1140
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Im also using EPA on my JR XS3, if i set it full it locks the brakes.
Well im gonna go wrench a little just now for tomorrow, hope the diff oil will help,
the new chassis should sort out some of my handling / setup issues aswell though
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