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Old 08-03-2006, 01:45 PM   #1081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpster1
Is anyone with a CD3 going to be running in the Great Lakes Challenge? I'm just hoping that there is going to be someone else there with one so that I can see their setup and be able to swap parts if necessary.
I wish I was. I know a slew of people from my track (look for anyone with a 301 raceway shirt on) will be over there, but most are running MTX4s.
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Old 08-04-2006, 06:12 PM   #1082
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I will look out for them tomorrow. It was one crazy day there today. I bought the new Orion Wasp and put it in the CD3, HOLY S***!!!! The time when I really started to get scared was when I realized that my brakes went out at the end of the straight. Luckily I missed the wall, but then I had to call it because my lug nuts were starting to fall off and I lost a tire and 2 others were ready to fall off when I finally got it in the pits. I believe that I am the only one running a shaft drive car in the whole GLC. Maybe tomorrow I can get the car dialed in and make some noise for the shaft drive's!!

I'll report more later.
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Old 08-04-2006, 08:14 PM   #1083
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good luck with the racng
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:57 AM   #1084
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Indeed. Lock those wheel nuts down man! Replace them if you can or use a dab of threadlock. If you run into Eric Jones, Vincent Jackson, Chris Whitney or Jack Honeycutt, they're from my track. EJ is smokin fast, assuming he can get his car in order. Vince is the local hotshoe and the ROAR regional winner to boot. Chris owns the track and is cool as a fan.
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Old 08-07-2006, 02:13 PM   #1085
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That pipe finally came. 3 day shipping my a&*! Then again, it did have to ship from Hong Kong. Now if I can get that bloody RB in the LD3 to turn over, I'll be good.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:58 PM   #1086
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Well folks, I never did give any more updates throughout the GLC, but I'm sure you kept up with it on here. As far as my CD3, I believe it's up for sale - Any Takers? The motor does not go with it or the radio gear. On Saturday, I threw up some pretty good numbers for me, considering I was still breaking in the engine and trying to get the hang of driving a MUCH faster car. My first heat went pretty well, once I figured out that I needed to use locktite on the wheel nuts to keep them from spinning off. My goal was to hit a 23 second lap, and that is what I did. I am having a heck of a time keeping it tight around the corners. It tends to push all the way around the corner, even if I give it a little throttle punch. On the third qualifier (last) for Saturday, I noticed that something was slipping because the engine was maxed out for RPM's. Once I got it in, I realized that the rear diff was shot. The inside gears are fine, but the crown gear going into the diff housing was shredded. Does anyone know of any upgrades or something more durable? I'll be ordering a couple from Nitrohouse tomorrow so that I can race again this weekend.

Spenz - I never ran into any of the guys you named in particular but I did hear people talking about the 301, but then again, I spent most of my time tearing things apart and helping another guy tear into his 1/8 Kyosho.

Happy racing.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:58 PM   #1087
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Well folks, I never did give any more updates throughout the GLC, but I'm sure you kept up with it on here. As far as my CD3, I believe it's up for sale - Any Takers? The motor does not go with it or the radio gear. On Saturday, I threw up some pretty good numbers for me, considering I was still breaking in the engine and trying to get the hang of driving a MUCH faster car. My first heat went pretty well, once I figured out that I needed to use locktite on the wheel nuts to keep them from spinning off. My goal was to hit a 23 second lap, and that is what I did. I am having a heck of a time keeping it tight around the corners. It tends to push all the way around the corner, even if I give it a little throttle punch. On the third qualifier (last) for Saturday, I noticed that something was slipping because the engine was maxed out for RPM's. Once I got it in, I realized that the rear diff was shot. The inside gears are fine, but the crown gear going into the diff housing was shredded. Does anyone know of any upgrades or something more durable? I'll be ordering a couple from Nitrohouse tomorrow so that I can race again this weekend. Needless to say, I wasn't able to run in the mains on Sunday, which sucked cause I was just getting the hang of the car.

Spenz - I never ran into any of the guys you named in particular but I did hear people talking about the 301, but then again, I spent most of my time tearing things apart and helping another guy tear into his 1/8 Kyosho.

Happy racing.
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:25 AM   #1088
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Nitrohouse does have a CNC crown gear for that diff. I ran into the same problem not too long ago (a few messages up, I believe). The key is those shims. I know the manual has all 3 shims on one side of the diff. That doesn't seem to work out for the long haul, as the gear mesh will be off, especially if you have a high powered engine in there. I ended up with 2 on the ring gear side and one on the other side, which gave me a nice mesh and not too much backlash (play between the gears), which is what you want. Once you get the gear back, that should do the trick. In the meantime, depending on how bad the gear is now, you could try placing all the shims on the ring gear side to see if it works until the gear comes in.

As for that push, post up your setup. It probably has more to do with that than anything else. Don't sell it just yet; wait until you blow it up first!
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:55 AM   #1089
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Wacking a powerful motor into a RTR sometimes is not a good thing The much better CNC gears are in the Pro version
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:40 PM   #1090
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Well, I guess with the upgrades coming, I can say that it is a Pro version now. I have the upgraded steel pinions coming as well as aluminum wheel hex's. Last night I was taking the wheels off and found that I had rounded out one of the front hexes and one of the rears. The one in the front was actually wedged in so bad that I snapped the wheel trying to get it out. I hope that with the aluminum hexes, that I don't have this problem again. I am going to be working on my setup sheet and will post it when I'm done to see what ya'll think I should do. I had some help at the track, but I'm not sure people liked working on my car because it was more of a pain than theirs.

Spenz - There is not a chance in hell that I can get the pinion to mesh with anything being that it is missing roughly 9 of the 16 teeth. And I'm not going to run it till she dies, that motor had better last me quite some time for as much as I paid for the thing.

I won't be able to run it this weekend, but I will be out the following, I hope.

Thanks for the advise.
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Old 08-11-2006, 01:25 PM   #1091
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hi guys i just got a new cd3 pro can any 1 help with set ups .
i just finished building it after 3 days [itook my time ]
it came with a 1 way fr/diff for witch i am going to change for a gear diff
as no 1 runs 1ways at the track . just a suggestion from the club riders who run mainly serpent an a couple of mugans [i think]
thanks for any help
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Old 08-11-2006, 04:47 PM   #1092
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Interesting, as Serpents and Mugens are known for not having diffs up front out the box. If the track is small and technical, a diff may be the way to go. As far as setups go, the Ofna website has a nice one that Jeff Lin uses. I used that as a baseline setup and tweaked it from there to suit my track and driving style. I'd start there.

Trump - I meant run the car until it blows up, not that new Orion hotness you have strapped in there! The cnc gears should help, and once you get it shimmed up right, should be no more problems out of it. Aluminum hexes are a nice touch, too.

I also got the RB to turn over (finally). Should be a nice backup motor. From the looks of the sleeve, it's been worked a bit. Not bad for $40.
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Old 08-11-2006, 08:17 PM   #1093
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Does the OFNA CD3 have plastic hex's? sorry ive only ever seen the Hong Nor version. I am running MTX3 style hex, don't buckle I guess i should just not hit things.

Hmm I have tried to drive with a front diff, front locker and I still like a one-way even on technical tracks. I guess its what I learnt on and have not given diffs a really good go.

$40? lol can't go wrong..
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:28 AM   #1094
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The RTR and Pro RTR have the plastic hexes, the Pro has all aluminum bits (except the shock towers, arm holders and brake housing). Strangely enough, you can use any battery pack (hump or flat) on the RTR versions, but the Pro needs the aaa pack.

I guess if you started with a one way, you go with what you know. I know it makes a huge difference on carpet when you run electric, but I guess the traction varries so much on nitro given the variables involved, you could get away with running a one way all the time. I'm getting used to it. Although I must say running the LD3 with 300,000 up front is almost like having a solid diff!

The guy that sold it to me runs 1/8 and didn't use the motor really at all. I needed to swap the crank (I had an old NovaMega side exhaust engine I had RB Mods work on) and the pinch was hella tight, but it looks like the sleeve was massaged a bit. Putting it on the track it loked like it will be a monster, even in the super rich mode it was being broken in with. If I have to run a 3 port (the NSR is a 5) I will make that switch. Looks like I'll be needing a new tranny for the LD3 in that case; switching the clutch out is a PITA.
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:45 AM   #1095
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Default Servo Mounting

Quick question: do you guys mount your servo on the radio plate only, to the chasis only, or bolt it to both? I have the servo on the radio tray on the CD3 and have had no problems, but have it bolted to the chasis on my LD3 and have blown 2 servos. Just curious.
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