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Old 07-19-2006, 09:54 AM   #1066
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Wow. That's about as short as they offer. Are you missing punch out of the corners? Only options I can come up with off the top is true the tires down just a bit (no lower that 60mm) or tighten up your clutch and tranny to engage higher and shift a little later. What kind of track/engine/pipe are you running and what exactly are you looking for / is the car not doing?
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:41 PM   #1067
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Wow, thats a darn low ratio. Are you positive its not a tune/clutch issue? Drive train free? (no seized bearings)

I'm currently run from 65 - 60ish mm with 20/55 (or it could be 21/55) on a tight track and she spins the wheels.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:40 PM   #1068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Wow. That's about as short as they offer. Are you missing punch out of the corners? Only options I can come up with off the top is true the tires down just a bit (no lower that 60mm) or tighten up your clutch and tranny to engage higher and shift a little later. What kind of track/engine/pipe are you running and what exactly are you looking for / is the car not doing?
our track is a car park one and about a 43 meter straight and fast sweepers at one end and the other is dead slow zig zags, like parks at shopping center, zig zag inin out on bays.
with small tires it great got the punch out of corners, just a little taily best lap time is 13.9sec.
but with bigger tires she understeers coming out of slow corners, best lap 14.3 sec. thanks for the help ill give tightening the clutch a go next meet and hopfully that il give the punch out of slow corners.

ps au nightmare, yes ive checked and it is free rolling
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:28 AM   #1069
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I too am racing in a carpark.

Wind the clutch up you have the pro? (0.8 gears?)

Ive wound my clutch down and she still spins the wheels coming out of the hairpin infront of the drivers stand, I should use some throttle control but it just brings a smile to my dial
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:18 AM   #1070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
I too am racing in a carpark.

Wind the clutch up you have the pro? (0.8 gears?)

Ive wound my clutch down and she still spins the wheels coming out of the hairpin infront of the drivers stand, I should use some throttle control but it just brings a smile to my dial
yes i have the pro with .8 gears, and will definatly try tightening the cluch, i too like it a little taily as long as it only steps out when i want it to.
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:42 AM   #1071
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It will (or should) make a difference. I felt the old 1.0 module clutch was a little small and going too high RPM for engagement it would slip somewhat but the 0.8 clutch is much better and can be quite snappy if you wish.

I dropped clutch engagement point (it helped) and then diff oil (fixed) when I had it stepping out just too much on initial application of power. Now with the 50k/grease mix its nice for our level of traction.
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:07 AM   #1072
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Nearly had a catastrophe at the track yesterday. Then again, the last 2 weeks have been pretty bad come to think of it. Let me just start where I left off...

Getting off work to get the new p/s worked in didn't happen Monday, so Wednesday was the next time I could go at it. Talk about a tight fit. I went up to the track to break it in where it wouldn't bother anyone and where I could get some help if needed. Unfortunately they generators weren't there, so no heat gun could be used. And boy did I need one. The fit was so tight, I ended up stripping the belt on the starter box and still didn't get it started worth anything. Spent the next day frantically searching for a local place for the belt. Nothing. Not even Bando, the company that made the belt, had them. This pretty much put racing last weekend on hold, as nobody else at my track is running a shaft car. Ah bummer.

Ordered it from Nitrohouse, came in Wednesday. Got the motor straight enough to hit the track by Friday. Found out the hardway that a NSR12 doesn't really like a Novarossi #7 plug, as was suggested by someone at the track. Went back to the #5 and it finally fired up. Practice was cut short when the car felt like it was slipping when I hit the gas and I heard a nasty clicking when I hit the brakes. Sure enough, that diff was starting to act up. While I had placed the shims where the instructions said, the mesh was nearly shot. I switched up the shims, putting 2 on the side of the large bevel gear and one on the other side, and all was right again.
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:54 PM   #1073
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lol man sounds like your having a bad time. I run my engines in at home until I feel they are loose enough to run without a heatgun (I hate not doing the heatgun thing - I can hear the conrod crying stop stop stop lol lol.)

Ahh but the manual says *adjust the backlash with shims You should have a very small amount, just like when setting any mesh (clutch etc). I am sure I run two shims on the crown gear side and one on other side.

Hmmm manual has no mention of grease on crown gear? I just run automotive stuff

Mcfly how did your clutch adjustments go?
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Old 07-30-2006, 03:14 PM   #1074
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hi i havent done it yet, racing this wednesday, so im looking over the car tonight and will adjust it then, ill let you know after racing.
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Old 07-31-2006, 04:04 AM   #1075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Nearly had a catastrophe at the track yesterday. Then again, the last 2 weeks have been pretty bad come to think of it. Let me just start where I left off...

Getting off work to get the new p/s worked in didn't happen Monday, so Wednesday was the next time I could go at it. Talk about a tight fit. I went up to the track to break it in where it wouldn't bother anyone and where I could get some help if needed. Unfortunately they generators weren't there, so no heat gun could be used. And boy did I need one. The fit was so tight, I ended up stripping the belt on the starter box and still didn't get it started worth anything. Spent the next day frantically searching for a local place for the belt. Nothing. Not even Bando, the company that made the belt, had them. This pretty much put racing last weekend on hold, as nobody else at my track is running a shaft car. Ah bummer.

Ordered it from Nitrohouse, came in Wednesday. Got the motor straight enough to hit the track by Friday. Found out the hardway that a NSR12 doesn't really like a Novarossi #7 plug, as was suggested by someone at the track. Went back to the #5 and it finally fired up. Practice was cut short when the car felt like it was slipping when I hit the gas and I heard a nasty clicking when I hit the brakes. Sure enough, that diff was starting to act up. While I had placed the shims where the instructions said, the mesh was nearly shot. I switched up the shims, putting 2 on the side of the large bevel gear and one on the other side, and all was right again.
Spenzalii:

You are having my sort of luck and i have stopped racing r/c. I have been through two windscreens in the ute in 6mnths, and the second time it was replaced the very next day on the same stretch of highway (only going home this time)... BANG!

Only this time they could repair it before it cracked.

Keep the head up high and keep on movin on.... kekekekeek

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Old 07-31-2006, 10:16 AM   #1076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
lol man sounds like your having a bad time. I run my engines in at home until I feel they are loose enough to run without a heatgun (I hate not doing the heatgun thing - I can hear the conrod crying stop stop stop lol lol.)

Ahh but the manual says *adjust the backlash with shims You should have a very small amount, just like when setting any mesh (clutch etc). I am sure I run two shims on the crown gear side and one on other side.

Hmmm manual has no mention of grease on crown gear? I just run automotive stuff

Mcfly how did your clutch adjustments go?
What can I say, it comes with the territory I guess. I'm glad all I had to do was switch the shims around (and that I had a few new ones in my pit box). My next round of replacement parts I may just pick up another one to be on the safe side. As for lube, I have some teflon lube I used on the gears. Seems to have worked. The diff itself is fine. Runs smooth, doesn't lock up. I still have that spare I can throw in if all goes bad (I never pulled that one way, just learned to drive without hitting that much!)

Engine run in is just a pain for the most part. But, it's a necessary evil. Go figure on that belt; the tension screw on the starter motor may have been oose, or the pinch was just that tight. It starts now with no problems, now that I have that hot #5 plug in there. I'm going to have to go thru the same thing with my RB motor, where the pinch is even worse.

I'm not sure what's with this carbon fiber. I snapped the bumper mount Saturday as well. I'm going to make sure I seal the edges of everything up with some CA this time around. If it breaks again, I'm going with the composite pieces all around.

String of hard time or not, I'm not quitting. I've put too much in it. Most of it just comes with the territory, for the most part. Besides, if you get that one hot lap, or make that one great pass, it makes it worth it!




P.S. MonoTuning has Skyline pipes for the CD3 for $26.....
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Old 08-01-2006, 07:01 AM   #1077
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R U sure I couldn't find them there. Do you have a link?
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:38 AM   #1078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDS70
R U sure I couldn't find them there. Do you have a link?
http://www.monotuning.com/index_ecat.php?cPath=75_77

Got my receipt. $46 shipped 3 day express
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:13 PM   #1079
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Is anyone with a CD3 going to be running in the Great Lakes Challenge? I'm just hoping that there is going to be someone else there with one so that I can see their setup and be able to swap parts if necessary.
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Old 08-03-2006, 12:02 AM   #1080
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hi Au_nightmare, tightening the clutch worked, ive now got more punch out of corners and can drift the back end around the hairpins, the only prob is ive got to learn to drive a bit more conservitatly now(and its hard cause its good fun drifting out of corners)
ps if your reading slo mtx4, hi and i hope you have you engine sorted for next onroad meet
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