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Old 06-22-2006, 06:08 PM   #1021
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Default Anti-squat/anti-dive

1. How is Anti-squat set up on these cars? Is that why the A-arm holders have different numbers on them like 0,1,5 and 2.5). Is this number an indicator of the height that the A-arm is raised when these blocks are installed?.
2. Which end of the suspension is the block positioned, front or rear?
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Old 06-22-2006, 08:37 PM   #1022
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Wondering how much would a Cd-3 cost ?
And the cheapest place to get 1 .

Thx .
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:54 AM   #1023
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CurveTracer,
Numbers is the degrees AFAIK ? I run 0deg (flat).

If you don't have it you should -
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...81&kategoria=0
Select the "HUDY Set-up Book"

You place the higher holder towards the front of the car for Anti Squat (for the rear) or Anti Dive (for the front)

SPEED RACER,
That depends where you live, google should find u a good price.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:26 AM   #1024
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Good look on that Hudy setup book. I also recommend the XXX Main book. They will help a lot in tuning the car.

Good news: Make Swaugger is supposed to be coming to my home track this weekend. Bad news: Weatherman is talking about big rain until Tuesday. Ah well, I need to paint a body anyway.
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Old 06-26-2006, 10:18 AM   #1025
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I'm starting to have doubts on these shock towers. In the time I ran the LD3 I never broke the stock plastic ones. Ever. So far this season I snapped 2 of the carbon fiber ones. Needless to say I am not a happy camper. I may see if someone can cut a few out of slightly thicker sheets of C/F, or machine them from aluminum. Or I may just leave the stock ones on. I like the extra shock angle that they give me, but not if I have to miss a qualifier switching it out.
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:14 AM   #1026
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hehe Don't think ill "upgrade" then thx for info.
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Old 06-29-2006, 07:23 PM   #1027
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Default Fuel Enonomy

My engine is a Picco .12 (roar legal) and it is tuned on the rich side. Outputing heavy exhaust smoke off the corners, and a good light trail of smoke always down the straights.

I am getting about 10 minutes per tank of fuel. Is that normal?
I have actually raced a 10 minute main with no fuel stops.
My engine temps are around 240 degF.

I checked my fuel hose and tank underwater for leaks and they were none.

My sons cars are CD3 PRO RTR's. The Force engine soes not get the same fuel economy.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:58 PM   #1028
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thats pretty good economy, with my cd3 pro ive had a few engines, novarossi ns3, sirio evo3, os tz12. and with all of them i just make 6 mins at a temp of about 120 deg celcius , if i run them a little rich it itll stop a lap or 2 before the end of the race.
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:16 PM   #1029
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10 is high. But if it's working for you and your fast enough, run with it. You probably could lean it a bit, but...
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:43 AM   #1030
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10minutes...

Hmmm i did it once with my FW05-R with out stopping for fuel, still had a 1/4 left as well. But i got disqualified after the race

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Old 06-30-2006, 02:02 PM   #1031
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My record is over 20mins on a STS D5 - Idle gap was dangerously small, mix lean and lucky it kept running woohoo was not a reliable setup but great for fuel economy if it did keep going.

Not a healthy thing to do so I don't plan on trying it again.

And yes BB did get DQ'd, what type of club is that?? sad....
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Old 06-30-2006, 06:53 PM   #1032
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Better still, dq'd for what?
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Old 06-30-2006, 06:56 PM   #1033
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If I remember our convo correctly it was for not refueling!! no joke...
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Old 07-01-2006, 02:37 PM   #1034
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Gear Diff - 6gear vs 4gear

I notice that the Pro RTR cars we have always seem to get al little more rear traction on dusty surfaces than my Pro Kit car. With the ride heights and suspension settings being close to the same, and the florscent yellow shocks installed on all models, the biggest difference I have is the differentials.
On my Pro Kit CD3 I am using 6 gear diffs on front and rear.
The Pro RTR's have 4 gear diffs on front and rear.
Is there a large difference between the performance of a 4 vs 6 gear diff?
The problem I am trying to solve is rear end traction. The rear tires break lose too easily. On a race track with high traction I can use the rear end to slide the car around. But this a bandaid for a bad handling situation.
I am tempted to remove 2 gears from my rear differential and see if my rear traction improves.
What do you guys think?
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Old 07-01-2006, 03:47 PM   #1035
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Default Ofna CD3 Pro

I had the same problem with my CD3 pro. I was running 6 gears in the rear diff. and constantly losing traction.
The track where I go to is in So Ca. and this is where Jeffery Lin from Ofna races quite a lot.
He helped me set up my CD3 pro one day, and the first thing he did was remove the 6 gear set-up, and installed the 4 gears.
It made a huge difference.
He also helped me with my chassis set-up, and the car was dialed in great. He knows the Ofna cars inside and out.
Remove your 6 gear, and go back to 4.
It should help you quite a lot.
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