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Old 05-26-2006, 02:09 PM   #976
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Nah you will be right, you just can't jump on the brakes as hard so I just adjust the servo travel for brakes (on the fly) so it does not spin the car out. If your radio allows easy adjustment of this it helps (mine is done with my thumb) Also a spring to help ease the brakes on helps.

Still be worth building the diff as a spare for the rear I also put 2 5x10 shims each side (internal to diff) in the last diff I built (100k/grease diff) not yet used it but seems better then 1 shim each side. (note: gears where not brand new so maybe thats why I could get x2 in). I've noticed the few times my LD3/CD3 diff has locked (over ?3 years?) it was due to the shims wearing out, replaced shims and presto. I've only replaced the internal gears in once, the early LD3 days. They where damaged when the stock screws allowed the diff crown gear to come off the housing, machine screws work great.

I also now grease the shims (real grease not the silicone stuff), something I don't recall doing before.
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Old 05-26-2006, 07:57 PM   #977
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I have a Hiec CRX, so tuning the braking down isn't too hard. I may try the ABS feture on the radio to see how that works.

All I really want to do is see how the car feels and go from there. Hopefully I won't chunk the tires up too much again. Then maybe I can get the real body painted up (the stock one is about to get beat up tomorrow)
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Old 05-27-2006, 01:08 AM   #978
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I tried ABS when I first got my JR R1, managed to kill a old servo that I was given and with all the testing with different ABS modes & settings came to the conclusion it was better just to set the brake end point so it wouldn't break traction.

See how you go though, you may different results.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:06 AM   #979
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hi i agree with au nightmare, i have a sanwa m8 radio and used to like using abs but found better braking from doing a couple of practice laps before the race and adjust brake end point to the most i could get before spinning out
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Old 05-27-2006, 03:59 PM   #980
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I took both your advise and just turned down the end point instead. Worked pretty well. I think I need to take it down a few more ticks since I was able to spin it at the end of the back straight (not good), but it should be OK.

Not too bad for it's maiden voyage. I took a few laps, nothing serious. Taking your time to put it together really pays off. The car has a lot more punch than the LD3, even with the same motor and similar gearing. Go figure. I really think they changed the internal ratio between the two. I haven't counted the teeth on he bevel gears yet, but I know they look different than a LD3 diff and have a different part number too. The ceramic bearings I dropped in there were worth their weight. The car was much smoother thru everything. The two things I want to do now are set the ride height (I was almost dragging the ground first time out, whereas the LD3 sat high no matter what I did. I now wonder if the correct ball ends were on those shocks...) and invest in some ball ends for the steering. The right one popped off with very little force. Maybe a pair of RPM ends will fix that.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:28 PM   #981
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0.8 gearing is supposed to be more efficent but I don't know how much, Personally I didnt think it would be noticable. Maybe its the bearings? Where did you get yours from? worth it?

Internal gearing on LD3/CD3 is the same - I am using the same parts and part numbers have not changed.
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:53 PM   #982
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I got a set of bearings from Acer Bearings. I have the ceramic ones on the CD3 and the Polymer something or other on the LD3. Still very smooth, let me tell you.

As for the part numbers, they are different.

LD3: Large Bevel Gear - 38257
Small Bevel Gear - 38258

CD3: Large Bevel Gear - 38416
Small Bevel Gear - 38702

Although I will say both small gears are 16T.

BTW, what different 0.8 spur gears can I use? I shreaded my 2nd gear at practice today. Fortunately , I put a 48t gear on when I built it, so I still had the stock gear in the box. I can order an Ofna gear, but if a Mugen gear will work, I'll get those (they stock just about every Mugen part at my track right now).
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:09 AM   #983
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How did you kill a 0.8 module gear?? Mine last over 12 months. Let me know if the mugen ones fit, don't *think* they do (different teeth count?)

As for part numbers - of course they are going to be "different" if you are comparing CNC Pro gears Vs RTR Gears.

But CNC gears for both CD3/LD3 are same, and so are the standard gears.

Example,
38416 CNC Steel Bevel Gear, Large For Gear Diff
is listed in both LD3 and CD3 parts
http://www.nitrohouse.com/parts,_cd3.htm
http://www.nitrohouse.com/parts,_ld3.htm


So back on to the bearings, lots of $$ but are they worth it you think?
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:39 AM   #984
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Quote:
BTW, what different 0.8 spur gears can I use? I shreaded my 2nd gear at practice today. Fortunately , I put a 48t gear on when I built it, so I still had the stock gear in the box. I can order an Ofna gear, but if a Mugen gear will work, I'll get those (they stock just about every Mugen part at my track right now).
I think they will fit. I searched on the internet and they looks like the same!
Thanks for the tip, becouse the mugen gears are here 50% cheaper then the ofna gears!
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:06 PM   #985
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Actually I think I killed two when I first got 0.8, it was in the LD3 and one was from picking up too many rocks (as the LD3 does) and chewing them up and the other gear was engine had moved and trashed my mesh.

Hmm I guess the single peice engine mount must also help regarding this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
How did you kill a 0.8 module gear?? Mine last over 12 months. Let me know if the mugen ones fit, don't *think* they do (different teeth count?)
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:13 PM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterwebber
I think they will fit. I searched on the internet and they looks like the same!
Thanks for the tip, becouse the mugen gears are here 50% cheaper then the ofna gears!
They are only $2 ??? wow.. nice..

I don't know if the teeth go low enough? Someone has to be the little piggy here and raid a mates mugen spares box

(there are ZERO of them around here)
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:03 PM   #987
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I'll check this week, because it seems that 75% of racers at my track run MTX-4s. Just about every 0.8 centax I've seen mount the tranny gears with the 3mm screws instead of being solely keyed in place with the gear holder and an c-clip. Considering the power clutch can be used on a MTX-3, it should work.

Gear mesh was a bit off, which signaled an end to 2nd gear. A pain, but not the end of the world. I gotta work on the clutch timing. Not sure if I want it to hit late or early. Tranny shift point is spot on, though

Didn't think about the CNC vs the steel thing. If I had, I wouldn't have ordered another one for that diff! Oh well. Since the track is big and flowing, maybe I will make that diff a solid and throw it in the rear when traction goes up (as it does at that track). I went with the J. Lin setup they had online and it seems to work just fine for my driving style
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Old 06-09-2006, 08:36 AM   #988
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Default The teething problems never end..

Interesting week last week, let me tell you...

Race was moved to Sunday because of rain. Car was pretty dialed, but I'm still learning the track and driving with a runway. I get a bad case of nerves on that stand looking over that tracck in open practice with a 960 barreling behind you. Besides a few tuning problems, the car runs fine. By the start of the mains, I'm in 2nd. 3 minutes into the race, it starts to rain. We're trying to make it across the track to pit, but all we're doing is spinning the tires out there. So they call the race for the time being.

Rain stops, they decide to try it again. Unfortunately, spinning the wheels like that didn't work for the small bevel gear in the rear, which shreaded. No big problem, I have a spare one in the box and 10 minutes to make the swap. Unfortunately, that was the least of my problems. Turn on the radio fir a quick check, and I have no throttle servo! My Hitec quit on me at the worst possible moment, and I left my LD3 at home. So instead of 2nd (or possibly 1st) I have to settle for my 2nd DNF.

The plan for this week was to swap engines and run the LD3 until I get the servos back from Hitec. This worked until I handed the track owner my radio to test out some paving work they were doing to the track. One smack of the wall and the rear knickle pops off (I have a few of those) and the dogbone ejects (I have none of those). So, unless I'm running 3wd, that's a wrap, too.

I get my bevel gear yesterday, swap the motor back to the CD3 and find 2 spare cheap servos to drop in for the time being (what I probably should have done in the first place). I'm going to finish a race Saturday if I have to run my 4Tec...
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Old 06-09-2006, 01:16 PM   #989
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I wouldn't run Hitec rubbish. Myself like many others have learnt that one the hard way. I would run cheapo Futaba S3003's over a Hitec. (I have read the Digital Hitec are ok but im not going to try them)

Was it the pro gear? (CNC one?) if so maybe you need to take more care with your mesh? Mine have lasted a very long time, I think I have replaced mine twice including LD3 days (so a good number of years now). I use automotive grease on mine when first assembling and shim so I have a very small amount of free movement - like you do with any gear mesh. I've raced in the rain also - Glad wrapped radio tray up etc. Was interesting

My car went well last sunday, I've now dropped my rear toe in to 1.5deg from 2 to loose a bit of rear traction (not yet tested). Had to laugh, she was coughing and spluttering on the straight in the 2nd qualifier - that is when I remembered I had forgot to change the glow plug I had pushed the coil up in with screwdriver.. opps..

BTW - there are two versions of rear knuckle, I didn't know until I noticed a spare of mine had bigger holes = easier pop off pivot ball. Not sure when either was made. Its quite a big difference also.
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Old 06-10-2006, 08:46 PM   #990
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I had Hitec digital servos installed. Go figure why they went. I had to swap with some crap servos I had from some earlier project. Ended up with a stock Futaba POC for throttle and a Bluebird servo I pillaged from my LD3. It did the job for the day. Unfortunately, my bumber was bent and dragged the f\gorund pretty bad, preventing me from having much steering. Sadly, I didn't figure this out until AFTER the race day was over. Oh well, I have one in the box, which I'll replace this week. Hopefully that will drop the steering radius under that of a truck...

The gear I replaced was a standard steel one (which is strange because the front came with that CNC gear). I replaced it with a CNC gear and lubed it up with some teflon greese. No problems there, the gear mesh felt great. I went back to the stock gearing on the tranny and found the punch my car needed. I may even drop a gear in second next go round.

As for the MTX gears, they will fit, but you won't find one small enough to get the gear ratio you want for second gear.
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