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Old 05-19-2006, 11:06 AM   #961
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Before buying a pinion tool I used multigrips with leather on the gears as not to damage them. How are you putting them on?

spenzalii, you sure you have the centax together right? the shoes should be seated with the smallest amount of tension. I started my nut with my fingers and only once it got tight used the pliers on it for a few turns.

Maybe you put a spacer on before the flywheel? this would shorten the SG crank up somewhat.
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Old 05-19-2006, 01:01 PM   #962
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Nope. I triple checked it. No shims behind the flywheel. Shoes in place just fine. Let's see, order went like this:

collet-flywheel-clutch nut-shoes-shoe plate-shoe-spring perch-spring-spring retainer-clutch bell w/ outer 5x10x4 bearing-thrust bearing-thrust bearing retainer-3x12 machine screw.

Once the nut is tightened, no play at all, and no movement of the clutch bell.
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Old 05-19-2006, 01:13 PM   #963
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So even with no shims you do not have any play?
When you put your SG clutch nut on, what is the length of the SG shaft still showing? (from end of nut to end of sg shaft)
mine is about 8.3-8.4mm
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Old 05-19-2006, 05:18 PM   #964
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I took the car to the track and had one of the guys look at it. He had it working on 30 seconds. The problem? The slide shoes were on UPSIDE DOWN!!!

After feeling like an idiot for a few times, I had a look at the instructions when I got home. The diagram shows a 2 piece sliding shoe, and doesn't really have a good drawing of which direction the beveled edge of the shoe should face. My clutch has the 4 piece shoe, so it was even harder to tell.

At least I don't want to pitch it out the window now!
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Old 05-19-2006, 05:47 PM   #965
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ROFL

Thats how they work, with the roation and weight of the slide shoes they ride up the angle of the flywheel pushing on the main shoes (and the spring) the faster the RPM the more push on the spring untill it engages.

They would not of sat in there very well the way you had them!! even the side view of the clutch in the manual should of pointed you in that direction since yours was sitting all weird :P
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Old 05-20-2006, 12:13 AM   #966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Read thru that and a few other articles on that site, to no avail. The only thing I can figure at this point (and I'll pull the clutch apart again at lunch) is that the spring adjustment nut isn't screwed down far enough. I'll try to take another measurement of that and see.

And yes, I'll probably end up getting that centax clutch tool soon!

BB,
I can't remember if you had the 1.0 gears or the 0.8 gears on your ride. I never had a problem with my 1.0 setup on my LD3. I DID screw up the clutch bell tightening the pinions on, but that's another story...
Spenzalii: The RTR is 1.0

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Old 05-20-2006, 06:16 AM   #967
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Well, as my buddy at the track said, we all f*%# up sometimes, so... But I did feel like the ultimate idiot for more than a few minutes. First time mistake, what can I say.

BB,
Put a bit of blue threadlock on the threads before tightening the pinions on. You won't have them spinning off after that.
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Old 05-20-2006, 02:04 PM   #968
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ohh yeah, mistakes happen for sure. It's equipment loss / damages ones I don't like (but still try to laugh).

My second carbon deck in almost 2 years has been damaged at the receiver box area due to T-Bone so the buggy basher has came out in me to produce.....


Very much an overkill.. might remove some alloy from it one day.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:55 PM   #969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Well, as my buddy at the track said, we all f*%# up sometimes, so... But I did feel like the ultimate idiot for more than a few minutes. First time mistake, what can I say.

BB,
Put a bit of blue threadlock on the threads before tightening the pinions on. You won't have them spinning off after that.

Spenzalii:

I did try it in between heats, but once again they came off and ripped the 2 speeds gears apart in the process. I am thinking the threadlock would have not had time to set though...

Anyway i am over onroad and will more then likely add the CD3 to ebay this week.

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Old 05-24-2006, 02:52 PM   #970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
ohh yeah, mistakes happen for sure. It's equipment loss / damages ones I don't like (but still try to laugh).

My second carbon deck in almost 2 years has been damaged at the receiver box area due to T-Bone so the buggy basher has came out in me to produce.....


Very much an overkill.. might remove some alloy from it one day.
Just out of curiosity, why are you running with buggies anyway? Danger will robinson!

BTW, I noticed where you have your transponder set up. If you want something more secure, I happened upon something last night. I was looking over some rc magazine and saw an Ofna add for the CD3 with J. Lin's car. Giving it a once over to see what hopups he had that I didn't, I saw how he mounted the transponder. Behind the switch on the radio tray you have 3 screw holes: the perfect spacing for the transponder. I put mine right there, screwed it down (I may switch from the flathead screws I have now to button head, not sure) and ran the wure down the little notch where it looks like your charge jack is. Pefect fit, nice and neat. I'll take pick later.

He also had the 5th body mount attached. I may put one on later, once I get the Mazda6 painted up.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:52 AM   #971
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Nah I don't run with buggies, misunderstanding. I started out in R/C Bashing buggies

Hmm yeah I'll see how I go, im removing the switch I think when I put my lipo setup in not sure yet.

5th? where does the 5th one come in?

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Old 05-25-2006, 11:10 AM   #972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
5th? where does the 5th one come in?
He was running the c/f shock towers. They have a spot in the middle to mount the post up. I forgot you had the stock ones.

I got a pair on mine. Gives you a few more options on the shock mounting
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:57 PM   #973
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Do you have any scales? I'm still trying to find the weight (dis)advantage with the carbon towers.. heck not that I can even think about that now ive slapped half a railway track on the side of my car
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Old 05-25-2006, 01:08 PM   #974
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BTW - Ive gone back to 50K & grease mix in rear diff, might try the 100k & grease mix diff next meet. The rear was just too lose on the initial application of power in corners with the 100k oil diff (was ok before it was refilled & reshimmed)
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Old 05-26-2006, 11:08 AM   #975
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Let me know how that goes. I have mine with 100k now. I'm ordering parts to put a diff in the front just in case I can't drive with that one way. Don't want to break my car too soon!
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