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Old 04-25-2006, 07:52 PM   #946
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I've seen a lot of guys run Vantage and it is indeed a great pipe. It's durable and makes the engines run like champs!
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Old 04-30-2006, 04:42 PM   #947
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Default re build of Da CD 3

Guys I just started a rebuild on my CD 3
Jp FX 3 port modified engine
And Rb pipe
Attached Thumbnails
Ofna Cd-3-dsc00081.jpg  
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:19 AM   #948
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Pretty

Q1: Whats the cable near throttle servo for?

Q2: Do you know if the alloy/carbon towers are lighter or heaver then the stock plastic ones?
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:55 AM   #949
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Smile ~CD3 Da re Build....

Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
Pretty

Q1: Whats the cable near throttle servo for?

Q2: Do you know if the alloy/carbon towers are lighter or heaver then the stock plastic ones?
What up .au_Nightmare
Q1: What is the cable near throttle servo for?

A Well the wire near the throttle is the battery charge lead

Q2: Do you know if the alloy/carbon towers are lighter or heaver then the stock plastic ones?

A since I build the car I had the alloy on it is a team spec, but I gave a
friend all the original part and Chassis.

Au when he is finish with the build I will weight it and tell you the difference .
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:12 AM   #950
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hehe sweet.. Another person too,... umm "busy" to remove battery to charge it hehehe though if I ever go LiPo this may change.
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:57 AM   #951
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That looks great!
I think the JP have a lot of power!
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Old 05-01-2006, 07:57 AM   #952
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Well guys, I ran my first official Club Race yesterday with my CD3. Through all the problems I was having a few months ago, the car ran pretty good. The only thing that I'm still have problems with is the low end. For the first 2-3 laps, the car jumps like a bat our of hell out of the corners, but then after that it turns into a slug. Does anyone know what to do???

Also, on a good note, I started first position in the B Main and placed first. I only had to pit once for a 15 minute main and still had almost half tank left. You'd think that it was running to lean, but the temp was around 260 - 270. I'm thinking that I'm running too lean on the bottom end, but not 100% sure. It's not smoking a whole lot, if any at all. My top end is looking great. If I could just get a little better hole shot I'd be looking better. The only thing that helped me win was the fact that I didn't spin out or flip and ran my center line (played safe). Being a first time racing and knowing how much money I had running around out there averaging 30mph, I really didn't want to bust anything.

Let me know if you have any advise on the low end issue. Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:32 AM   #953
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Not sure on that low end question. Josh Cyrul has a good article on tuning the engine. If I find the link I'll post it up for you. That may help out a bit.

I finally took the plunge and bought the CD3 last week. It's mostly together. I need to get the clutch set up and installed and work on the linkage as well. All the hopups are installed (shock tower, arm mounts, ceramic bearings, gearing swap, etc). Good thing I read thru the tread and got that aaa pack. I would have been up the creek. It looks sooo pretty. Hopefully I can get it installed tonight and start breaking the engine in again. I had to get the NSR12 pinched. At the 1st race of the season, the car continued to shut down once it touched operating temps. There was absolutely no resistance with the plug out. Sent it to RayaRacing and it feels like it's back in business.

Now to flip thru this post and get a good setup for that big ass track...
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:31 PM   #954
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trumpster1
Did you read the MYTSN link? and start from the idle adjustment.
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Old 05-17-2006, 09:10 AM   #955
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I have not really read any links for idle adjustment. I actually had some help out at the track with adjust the carb and idle. It idles great! It's just after it has warmed up and running on the track that it kind of looses it's pep. I'm watching a new engine on eBay right now, so I'm hoping that I get it so that I don't have to deal with the stock crap. The hard part will be finding a good pipe with the unusual opposite side exhaust stinger and top mount pressure nipple. I will check that thread out if you give me the link or could direct me where to find it.

Thanks
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:37 PM   #956
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Tune link:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=2242&exp=13&sn=2

RE: Pipe, Thats not hard, its much harder finding a LD3/NTC3 pipe. The pipe your after is ones that suit the Kyosho FW05, HN CD3 or Tamiya TG10
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:25 AM   #957
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Default Centax Clutch question

OK guys, I've got the car built, but am tweaking everything before I get to breaking the motor in. I have to play with the steering servo to get the steering rod to stop rubbing, but that's another post.

The power clutch setup is killing me. First of all, it's an absolute bear getting that spring retaining nut locked down on the flywheel nut. It's pretty scratched from my grabbing it with pliers and pushing and twisting until it catches. Hopefully it will be fine. The biggest question is setting the gap. When I set it up according to the manual (5 shims, bearing, bell, bearing, thrust bearing, retainer) I have absolutely NO play on the bell. Its as if the flanges that sandwich the thrust bearing are too thick. When I remove one of the flanges and replace it with a shim, I can get the correct gap. Am I doing something wrong?

And what is the best way to hold the clutch bell and tighten up the pinion gears? One spun off on me yesterday. I didn't use any threadlock; I wonder if I should?
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Old 05-19-2006, 12:12 AM   #958
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re: setting clutch read:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?s...d=9339&exp=109

re: pinions falling off, I assume you are not using a pinion tool ? they are very handy things also the gears are won't be damaged from putting them on or removing them.
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Old 05-19-2006, 04:46 AM   #959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
OK guys, I've got the car built, but am tweaking everything before I get to breaking the motor in. I have to play with the steering servo to get the steering rod to stop rubbing, but that's another post.

The power clutch setup is killing me. First of all, it's an absolute bear getting that spring retaining nut locked down on the flywheel nut. It's pretty scratched from my grabbing it with pliers and pushing and twisting until it catches. Hopefully it will be fine. The biggest question is setting the gap. When I set it up according to the manual (5 shims, bearing, bell, bearing, thrust bearing, retainer) I have absolutely NO play on the bell. Its as if the flanges that sandwich the thrust bearing are too thick. When I remove one of the flanges and replace it with a shim, I can get the correct gap. Am I doing something wrong?

And what is the best way to hold the clutch bell and tighten up the pinion gears? One spun off on me yesterday. I didn't use any threadlock; I wonder if I should?
Spenzalii:

I was having the same problem with my RTR version with the pinion gears spinning off. I was under the impression it was because the one way bearing in the 2 speed failed... but maybe not

Anyway i have parked it since and it is now just collecting dust.

BB
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Old 05-19-2006, 07:34 AM   #960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
re: setting clutch read:
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?s...d=9339&exp=109

re: pinions falling off, I assume you are not using a pinion tool ? they are very handy things also the gears are won't be damaged from putting them on or removing them.
Read thru that and a few other articles on that site, to no avail. The only thing I can figure at this point (and I'll pull the clutch apart again at lunch) is that the spring adjustment nut isn't screwed down far enough. I'll try to take another measurement of that and see.

And yes, I'll probably end up getting that centax clutch tool soon!

BB,
I can't remember if you had the 1.0 gears or the 0.8 gears on your ride. I never had a problem with my 1.0 setup on my LD3. I DID screw up the clutch bell tightening the pinions on, but that's another story...
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