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Old 02-10-2006, 01:10 PM   #886
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Psstt $100 OBO for CD3 PRO minus clutch and radio gear
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...98#post2118498

PM for more info...it has to go!
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:06 AM   #887
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Question, and need an answer relatively quick,
I finally got all the parts to assemble my clutch gears. What thread lock should I use when threading the gears on the clutch bell?

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:14 AM   #888
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USe blue thread lock, but you ONLY need a tiny drop. Basically just enough to moisten the threads on the CB. If you use too much it will be a pain to remove later should you want to change them. Get the HPI pinion wrech as it comes with holders for the centax flywheel and a wrench to take off the pinions.
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:42 AM   #889
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Hark - Thanks for the information. I do not have a centax clutch, plus I really shouldn't need to hold the flywheel as I am assembling off the car.

Thanks again
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:25 AM   #890
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I think he ment hold the bell and you will need to do that

and if you do use too much loctite your pinions will be very very very hard to get off - heat will help so if you cant get them off its heat it up and use gloves time..
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:19 PM   #891
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Thanks for all of the help guys. I was actually able to take it out in the driveway and run it. I was shocked as heck that it actually started on the 3rd or 4th pull because it hasn't been started in almost 3 months, and yes, i had oil in the cylinder and carb. I don't have the shift point geared in yet, but all I wanted to see is if it ran. So far so good. The 0.8 gearing made a big difference form a dead stop. Now I just need to rework my brake springs because the brakes don't seem to want to work after it's been running for a little while. My next project is cleaning out and greasing the rear diff. I have a one-way front on order which should be in next week. The next project is changing oil in the shocks. What weight do you all think I should use, also, how hard is it to change the oil without making a complete mess?

Thanks again guys and have a great day!!
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Old 02-11-2006, 08:54 PM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpster1
Thanks for all of the help guys. I was actually able to take it out in the driveway and run it. I was shocked as heck that it actually started on the 3rd or 4th pull because it hasn't been started in almost 3 months, and yes, i had oil in the cylinder and carb. I don't have the shift point geared in yet, but all I wanted to see is if it ran. So far so good. The 0.8 gearing made a big difference form a dead stop. Now I just need to rework my brake springs because the brakes don't seem to want to work after it's been running for a little while. My next project is cleaning out and greasing the rear diff. I have a one-way front on order which should be in next week. The next project is changing oil in the shocks. What weight do you all think I should use, also, how hard is it to change the oil without making a complete mess?

Thanks again guys and have a great day!!
Trumpster1:

I cleaned the diffs out with degreaser and they used siliconne oil front and rear. I used 100K upfront and 50K at the rear. The shocks were a interesting task as the only way i could get some sort of resistence was to go 80wt oil, everything else felt really soft. This will be due to the piston used from the factory, but i have been too lazy to get a closer look

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Old 02-11-2006, 09:11 PM   #893
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Re: the brake fade, you could get a set of cradock disc brakes
http://advantageracingproducts.com/brakes.php
the new "Anti-Lock" Cradocks 100% fuel and fade resistant. The Ultimate braking hop-up for any 1/8 buggy!

But I see you are getting a one-way so prolly wont be a problem as there will be a lot less stress on your brakes since you will have to wind them back a lot.
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:06 AM   #894
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Back Online

I have changed my gearing thank to au_Nightmare and his beloved Wife The car now has punch out of corners, the knob behind the wheel needs more track time though... Over the last fortnight, i had been a bot discouraged, but will see how things progress this weekend at our next club meet.

Re: Flywheel!

Has anyone tried to lighten the flywheel at all????

Re: Parts!

I have noticed that parts seem to br long and far between on the online stores in HK etc. Rc-Mushroom only now list the Pro kit. I hope Niki can still get products, i have found him a little difficult to get information from though

BB
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Old 02-20-2006, 06:50 AM   #895
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BB: What did you change your gearing to?

RE: Parts: The only place that really carries parts for the CD3 or LD3 is Nitrohouse, but I don't know what their limitations are for shipping and what their lead times are like. There seem to be some TA parts that will bolt up with minor modifications if any at all.

I changed the diff gear in my rears last night. It was freaking green and sludgy. It now has 5k weight. Did you put any diff fluid in the diff housing as well as the internal gear?

I am still trying to figure out how to take apart the shocks. I had the manual out last night trying to figure it out and nothing is working. I'll probably end up buying new ones or something (dangit).

Have a good one!
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Old 02-20-2006, 11:50 AM   #896
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He changed it to the "5 tooth spread" spoken about in the LD3 forum - its what I used to run before going to 0.8
Quote:
With my CV-R, I went with a 5 tooth spread at 16/21 on the bell and 44/39 on the spur, and it gets out like a scalded cat.
Dont use fluid in diff housing only IN the diff. I use a bit of grease on the crown/bevel gears.

Shocks? just unscrew the top and look inside.

BB RE: parts, I have not had a problem with nikki but I guess I just ask for part number + part name and how many I want. I know other place but they have to order in - talk to me online. RE: nitrohouse, they wouldn't send outside USA before and I'm glad as they cost more anyway.

RE: flywheel, AFAIK its a standard 3 shoe clutch I think anyone who wanted lighter just got a lighter one instead of trying to balance holes etc..
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Old 02-21-2006, 05:37 AM   #897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpster1
BB: What did you change your gearing to?

RE: Parts: The only place that really carries parts for the CD3 or LD3 is Nitrohouse, but I don't know what their limitations are for shipping and what their lead times are like. There seem to be some TA parts that will bolt up with minor modifications if any at all.

I changed the diff gear in my rears last night. It was freaking green and sludgy. It now has 5k weight. Did you put any diff fluid in the diff housing as well as the internal gear?

I am still trying to figure out how to take apart the shocks. I had the manual out last night trying to figure it out and nothing is working. I'll probably end up buying new ones or something (dangit).

Have a good one!
Trumpster:

au_Nightmare has already answered the gearing combo

I used 100K up front and 50k in the rear (Kyosho). On the crown gear an pinion i am using Mugen Super Grease...

Hope this helps.

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Old 02-21-2006, 07:11 AM   #898
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Thanks guys (BB and au). You have no idea how much help you've been. BUT, I still can't get the damn caps off of the shocks. I'm affraid to crush the plastic housing with the pliers since that is the only way that I can seem to get any grip.

I'm running 5k in the rear diff and I spoke with one of the guys that run at my local track and he said that almost all of the guys there put diff oil in the diff housing about 1/2 full. He said that it will help keep it cool and running smoother, so I was like, okay! I guess that he spoke with Jeff Lin and Paul Coleman from OFNA about this and the gearing and they said that so far my setup was pretty good. I'm hoping to meet them this summer so that they can give me some other pointers.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:05 PM   #899
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Nitrohouse is usually pretty good about shipping and stock. I've never had a problem with getting any of my orders from them (I think I even got my first LD3 from Nitrohouse, come to think of it). You can always e-mail Tim for any questions you have.
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Old 02-21-2006, 10:35 PM   #900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpster1
Thanks guys (BB and au). You have no idea how much help you've been. BUT, I still can't get the damn caps off of the shocks. I'm affraid to crush the plastic housing with the pliers since that is the only way that I can seem to get any grip.

I'm running 5k in the rear diff and I spoke with one of the guys that run at my local track and he said that almost all of the guys there put diff oil in the diff housing about 1/2 full. He said that it will help keep it cool and running smoother, so I was like, okay!
Hmm was he pulling ur leg? Diff oil in diff housing would act like a brake in your drive line. You want the pinion / bevel gears to spin as free as they can. If you where to put any oil in there you would want it super super thin and it will leak out anyway so just go with some nice moly grease

Oh yeah forgot the OFNA versions have the plastic shocks Sorry, I've only ever had alloy (not being OFNA) so dont know what the story is with the plastic ones.
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