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Old 01-12-2006, 08:23 PM   #826
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Nightmare - Yes, I remember my thread. I just wished I had remembered where I parked my truck the other night (haha). Anyway, thanks for the information. I guess that being that I stated that I had a CD3 RTR Sport that everyone would know what the bellhousing setup was like, but I was wrong, so I do apologize if you were offended that I called anyone a liar. Now, the challenge is finding a bellhousing to match up. I just really don't want to spend $90 on the clutch kit from Nitrohouse. I got the 0.8 gears for $30 on eBay, brand new still sealed. I just need to keep my eyes open for the clutch on eBay as well so that I can get my car put back together. It's together now, but I had to put the original gear in it.

Note: Remember I said I was releatively new into this? Now: whats a centax? is it a type of bellhouseing?

Spenz - Thanks for pointing that out. Now that you and Nightmare both stated that, i guess I need to fork out some more money, as usual. This car sucks up more money than my g/f.

Thanks again, all!!
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:37 PM   #827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trumpster1
I just really don't want to spend $90 on the clutch kit from Nitrohouse.
I hope not cause it won't fit your engine (you did read my message above re: centax on sg crank. Force .12 is threaded as far as i know?).

what is a centax clutch
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:50 PM   #828
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Well put. Your best bet is hold onto those gears until you upgrade the engine. Without the right crank, it will be impossible to get the gears on.

Don't get too discouraged just yet, either. Trying to score cheap parts to hop up your car is great, but without a good game plan on what to get first to work with what you already have (and keep you from going in the poorhouse), it can get confusing. Stick to this thread; the guys in here have done about all there can be done to the CD3/LD3 and know what's what.

BTW, my great upgrade for '06 race season has begun. The last item I'll be getting is the CD3 pro from Tower (I should be able to get it down to about $230 if I work it right). In the meantime, to avoid canibalizing my LD3 (it's staying as a backup / 2nd car. Can't get rid of it after it won my class) I'll order all the parts it doesn't come with and have them ready (does the pro have the aluminum arm holders already? Can't remember)
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:07 PM   #829
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No, pro = plastic arm holders so you need to buy them..

trumpster1
1. look for a NTC3 clutch,
http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...c3/kitntc3.htm

see - 0.8 gears and a normal type bell. Now, does the bell interfear with 2 speed bell, only you can find that one out

2. You did not answer my q: to why u had to shim..
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:43 PM   #830
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Hows this..

clutch bell:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMJ9&P=7

Bearings
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMD7&P=M

20T 1st gear
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMC4&P=M
(other sizes listed underneath)

I assume NTC3 clutch bell is a standard size so this should suit you. NOTE: I dont know for sure so do your research :P
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Old 01-15-2006, 11:19 AM   #831
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Today i ran my Cd3 , the car ran very quick .. the guy in london never saw a Cd3 they all was ooh and ahhh about the car they all so was surprize by the speed that i was getting from the nova 5port
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Old 01-15-2006, 04:30 PM   #832
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Nightmare - I didn't shim anything yet. When I put the gearing in the brake mount holder, the gears would hit the chasis. I am not so worried about that right now as I am about getting the clutch bell to align properly. The original gears are back in until I get the new bellhousing. I'm going to check my LHS and see what they say. Also, a member of the club I belong to has many good used engines that I might buy from him and custom fit something. I really should upgrade anyway. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.

As soon as the season kicks in around here and I can get to the track, I'll let you know what kind of times I'm posting.

Have a good one!
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Old 01-15-2006, 05:03 PM   #833
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Chassis is no problems then, just cut it out

Hope those links helped..
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Old 01-15-2006, 05:12 PM   #834
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Yes, those links helped. I now have them bookmarked for future reference. I'm not 100% sure when I will get around to working on this for about another week. I am getting ready to leave for California for work on Thursday and things have been hectic. I am hoping to work on my car a lot more towards the end of next week and next weekend.

Have a good one!!
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Old 01-20-2006, 10:04 AM   #835
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Default 3 Da Hard Way

Thats may set ... just have some time on my hands ....
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Old 01-20-2006, 07:42 PM   #836
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hi guys our chrissy cup has just finished and we had a bit of good fun for the last round the other night, trailer racing, i was using a new car to me (a second hand cd3 pro)and had a couple of probs dead servo and loose glow plug, i didnt win the trailer racing ( trailer was taken out in last race, got to have trailer on to win the race) but when i was racing it was laping the competition. heres a pic of it.
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Old 01-20-2006, 10:52 PM   #837
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Default CD3 RTR

Hi

I have a CD3 RTR to bash around with and i have a few tech question for all of you. I am wanting to ditch the grease in the front and rear diffs and replace it with silicone oil. Does anyone know of an easy way to get rid of the grease? Also i notice that you have been replacing the screw to 2x6mm machine thread screws with a flathead is this the go while i have the diff apart both front and rear?

And what do you think would be a good starting point for the new diff oils? I look forward to hearing from you shortly, please be prompt i want to head down to the hobby store tomorrow

Cheers
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:57 AM   #838
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Can't really help with the weight of oil to put in as I run a one-way but for sure put machine screws in !! I run 2x8mm in mine.

(maybe see the LD3 thread re: oil weights, also here http://www.ofna.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=368 )
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:26 AM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S710_Nut
Hi

I have a CD3 RTR to bash around with and i have a few tech question for all of you. I am wanting to ditch the grease in the front and rear diffs and replace it with silicone oil. Does anyone know of an easy way to get rid of the grease? Also i notice that you have been replacing the screw to 2x6mm machine thread screws with a flathead is this the go while i have the diff apart both front and rear?

And what do you think would be a good starting point for the new diff oils? I look forward to hearing from you shortly, please be prompt i want to head down to the hobby store tomorrow

Cheers
hi im no expert but have played around for a while. getting grease out, i usualy take out cogs and spray with metho and wipe out with rag.
screw replacing, i havent got the new diffs togeher yet but i sheard the factory screws off and wrecked 2 diff cases, i am in proseces of building new diffs and am using 2x8 machine screws and have been told to drill holes a little deeper with 1.6 mm drill.
oils, i have used 30k oil in front and was ok, and have been using 30k in rear, it was ok to, but was told to try 100k to help stop diff breaking probs. hope that helps.
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:17 PM   #840
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Default Diff!

Thank you guys for your help. I will head down to my LHS shortly and see what they have

What should i relube the crown gear an pinion with? I have some Mugen Super Grease, would this be ok?

Look forward to your further imput!
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