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Old 01-03-2006, 11:12 AM   #796
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I switched back to my belt driven car. Just felt the CD3 wasn't as fast nor did my engine like the pipe.
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Old 01-03-2006, 05:55 PM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooked_on
Mcfly:

The diff area is certainly a weak spot on any shaft drive car, it becomes more apparent when you put more power through the chassis. I am currently driving a Kyosho V1RRR and while i dont have any problems with the diff, the belts have a habbit of breaking. I had the pleasure today of pulling down & reassembling the rear end to change the belt

Shaft drive = alot easier to work on

It's times like this i wish i still had a NTC3 or FW05R

H_O
You are spot on there while i dont drive a Shaft drive car and have seen Marty (McFly) suffer many a broken car ths past season it seems to be the case. Shaft drives are very very hard on there drive line and from what i have seen marty wreck the diffs in the CD3 seem to be very small. After you sorted out the engine drama and swapped to the Sirio marty the problem seems to have gotten a bit worse but i could be wrong. Ofna (or Hong Nor as there known here) has got to have a fix for it somewhere

cheers Daniel
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:39 AM   #798
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Mcfly:

Out of interest are you using the Pro Kit CD3 with the CNC gears?

H_O
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:17 AM   #799
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& what part of the diff are you guys killing? Crown/Bevel gears or the 6 internal gears?
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:34 AM   #800
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HO i know that he is using the pro kit for sure. but as far as what gears he is running i am not sure.
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Old 01-04-2006, 06:44 AM   #801
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Hi everyone, i am using the cd3 pro kit i bought 6 months ago, one just the other week the diff sheared the screws off the bevel gear( i know that people are using longer machine screw in the case and i never did that so thats my fault, and that was the longest lasting diff, approx 3 hours of driving, 3 meets and some tuning.) the other about 4 diffs stripped the internal gears, they didnt look too bad just a grove warn on one of the larger gears( 13ti think) and it turned the car into a front wheel drive. can someone explain in detail how to shim up the diff properly in case thats my prob. thanks
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:12 PM   #802
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Default CD3 Diff info from ofna forum

Posted by Curve Tracer
I have not damaged a diff ... yet, but when building two of them this is what I have done.
1. Assemble the diff (without packing lube) to determine if the gears mesh ok. What I mean is that the parts turn easily by hand. What I have done is substitute the rubber o-ring with one from the shock kit. The combination of these blue/red rubber rings is what I use to set the internal gear mesh. Though it is a pain to assemble and disassemble the diff, it has worked for me.
2. When installing the tapping screws make sure the holes are free of
diff grease (easier said than done) and try a plastic friendly thread locker.

These diff's are not as smooth as my Kyosho GTR car, but the key is to set them up so that there is positive contact (by feeling the operation when it is assembled) but no binding while turning the parts when assembled.[B]
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:59 PM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbeats
Posted by Curve Tracer
I have not damaged a diff ... yet, but when building two of them this is what I have done.
1. Assemble the diff (without packing lube) to determine if the gears mesh ok. What I mean is that the parts turn easily by hand. What I have done is substitute the rubber o-ring with one from the shock kit. The combination of these blue/red rubber rings is what I use to set the internal gear mesh. Though it is a pain to assemble and disassemble the diff, it has worked for me.
2. When installing the tapping screws make sure the holes are free of
diff grease (easier said than done) and try a plastic friendly thread locker.

These diff's are not as smooth as my Kyosho GTR car, but the key is to set them up so that there is positive contact (by feeling the operation when it is assembled) but no binding while turning the parts when assembled.[B]

Ahhhh.... animated boooooooobiesssss

All this talk about diff problems, makes another NTC3 a good option

H_O
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:01 PM   #804
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TC3? I would rather by a FW05-RR as much as i dislike kyosho on-road cars.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:32 PM   #805
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Curve tracker might be onto something, Ive had very little problems with he diff but my diff at last meet got chunky/locking up. Inspection seems it was due to the shims wearing out effecting the mesh Installed new shims and all seems fine again (no gears changed) I prolly should of tried extra shims though.........
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:47 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
TC3? I would rather by a FW05-RR as much as i dislike kyosho on-road cars.
Slo-MTX4:

I had a Fw05-R, and before you hit the track you needed to purchase the Steel Gear (Crown & Pinion), otherwise you had metal filings everywere in only a very short period of time. I am not sure if these gears are standard on the RR version or not though.

H_O
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:52 AM   #807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbeats
Posted by Curve Tracer
I have not damaged a diff ... yet, but when building two of them this is what I have done.
1. Assemble the diff (without packing lube) to determine if the gears mesh ok. What I mean is that the parts turn easily by hand. What I have done is substitute the rubber o-ring with one from the shock kit. The combination of these blue/red rubber rings is what I use to set the internal gear mesh. Though it is a pain to assemble and disassemble the diff, it has worked for me.
2. When installing the tapping screws make sure the holes are free of
diff grease (easier said than done) and try a plastic friendly thread locker.

These diff's are not as smooth as my Kyosho GTR car, but the key is to set them up so that there is positive contact (by feeling the operation when it is assembled) but no binding while turning the parts when assembled.[B]

Just to check to make sure i am on the right track, you are talking about the actual diff gear itself rather then the crown gear & pinion? I think i need to tak another look at a manul online.

H_O
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:34 AM   #808
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part # VS002 , manuals online show same gear used in FWO5-R & RR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hooked_on
I had a Fw05-R, and before you hit the track you needed to purchase the Steel Gear (Crown & Pinion)
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:13 AM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
part # VS002 , manuals online show same gear used in FWO5-R & RR.
au_Nightmare:

You are quite the detective

H_O
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Old 01-05-2006, 05:00 AM   #810
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HO you dont race at Brendale do you?
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