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Old 09-04-2005, 01:47 PM   #736
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Maybe stop hitting things so hard? I dunno. The black ones hold up better then the silver ones.

Madcat - will depend on your engine, grip etc. If your running 1.0 module you have to change pinion and spur gear to change a ratio
0.8 allows you to just change the pinions!

Just listen to your engine see if its getting to max revvs too early or boggs and also listen for your 2nd gear shift point..

Last edited by au_Nightmare; 09-04-2005 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:16 PM   #737
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Thanks nightmare. Do you think I should change to 0.8? Is there a great advantage when using it over 1.0 module? I might be the only CD3 owner here in Auckland and parts are scarce. I got the car second hand, had a combination of 15 and 19 pinions with 43 and 39 spurs. Good combination for the twists in our track but slow as on the straight. Running just my old RB X12 which seems to be no match for the newer Nova Megas and Novarossis so maybe I can compensate with the proper gear combination. Anymore suggestions? Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-05-2005, 12:34 AM   #738
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You can almost buy a engine for what 0.8 will cost. If your going to go 0.8 buy a pro kit so you get 0.8 + all the spares BWahaha.. Where you buying from? I have no LHS here so mines all OS
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Old 09-05-2005, 03:57 AM   #739
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Thanks nightmare. That's true. The 2 speed just costs too much. I haven't bought any parts yet (seems the car is quite strong) but I just need the gears to keep the car a bit competitive. I haven't bought parts from overseas yet. Where do you get yours from? Maybe I could get the 2 speed from there cheaper. Is the CD3 quite popular in Australia? From where I race, it's all mtx3s and 710. Shaft cars are dying here.
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:38 AM   #740
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Here is my CD3 PRo I got from my friend when I traded the 8th buggy. It came with the MT12 engine I sold to him. LOL! It's still got some pep, but maybe a mod will make it faster. Otherwise a faster engine in general will be needed.




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Old 09-05-2005, 01:17 PM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madcat prime
Thanks nightmare. That's true. The 2 speed just costs too much. I haven't bought any parts yet (seems the car is quite strong) but I just need the gears to keep the car a bit competitive. I haven't bought parts from overseas yet. Where do you get yours from? Maybe I could get the 2 speed from there cheaper. Is the CD3 quite popular in Australia? From where I race, it's all mtx3s and 710. Shaft cars are dying here.
Yeah ? The RRR's have started rolling out over here big time. Have you got MSN, Yahoo or icq? PM me the details ill pass some info on
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Old 09-05-2005, 04:32 PM   #742
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Nightmare, you got pm.
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Old 09-09-2005, 03:19 AM   #743
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Default CD 3 Pro diff problem

just got a cd3 pro and it is a lovely car.i run the car with an RB engine in and it really does go very well.After half an hour the rear diif started crunching.I took it out and the small internal diff gears were stripped.The gears are mean't to be hardened and i was surprised that they stripped so quickly.I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and any ideas how i can cure this problem.
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Old 09-09-2005, 03:28 AM   #744
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hmm no I dont think the internal gears are hardened. Where you running a thick or thin diff oil (or grease?)
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Old 09-09-2005, 03:56 AM   #745
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Default diff problem

i was running 60000 silicon diff oil.
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Old 09-09-2005, 04:49 AM   #746
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hmm I was going to say maybe you where getting too much diff action (ive seen 1/8 buggy diffs die because of that). I'm running mugan 100k.
(If your 60k is ofna brand then its pretty thin)
I'd wack some thicker oil in.
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Old 09-09-2005, 07:57 PM   #747
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What RB are you using?
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Old 09-10-2005, 04:03 AM   #748
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i am using an RB rody tuned 3 port engine.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:47 AM   #749
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I have a CD3 pro and have had the same problem not matter what oil or how the diff has been shimmed.
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:42 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geggs
i am using an RB rody tuned 3 port engine.
Rody 3 port std plug, Turbo ROAR, or Turbo EFRA?
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