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Old 06-02-2004, 06:27 PM   #31
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Do the hardened diffs come in kits for the whole diff, or just the gear? Glad to hear about rs4's in the racing seen. I dont think they get enough respect.

I have one more question. Which do you guys think is a better racing platform? the rs42 or the rs43ss? Just wondering. besides the belts and shaft drives?Seems like the rs42's have a little more push then the ss with the same engine and a 2 speed?
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:54 PM   #32
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Do the hardened diffs come in kits for the whole diff, or just the gear

You have to buy the 38 tooth gear and the 13 tooth gear. They don't come together. The part numbera are: A856 for the 38 tooth and A857 for the 13 tooth. Not cheap but they are much better. I should have bought them in the first place, I spent more on the stock ones replacing them all the time.
As for the better chassis I don't know, I never ran the RS4 2. I wanted a shaft drive when I bought this one, it was a rtr in the begining, since I bought everything has been up graded. Now my son just needs to learn how to drive it.
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Old 06-03-2004, 03:56 AM   #33
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cool, I am going to pick up those diffs this weekend. So is there anything else that needs to be upgraded to handle an rs12? I was thinkng on getting cvd's, but I heard to many stories of them snapping. Any suggestions besides the dogbones and cvd's?, or are those my only two options?
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Old 06-03-2004, 06:57 AM   #34
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I have got the MIP cvd's in all four corners. I would suggest that you at least put them up front. It will make cornering alot better as the dog bones start to wear. In the rear I wouldn't get as worried about the cvd's seeing the rear wheel don't turn. If youo put the cvd's on just make sure you keep an eye on the pin that goes thru them. Even if you put lock tight on them they still have tendancey to work loose.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:43 PM   #35
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You can keep the set screw for the pin from loosening by grinding a small flat spot in the middle of the pin, apply loc tite and re-assemble. I have also used shrink wrap around the cvd as insurance.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:50 PM   #36
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What kind of shrink wrap are you useing? I have tried that cvd cover made out of soft rubber but it just ripped that to pieces. Would like to try something else like that srink wrap your talking about.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:38 AM   #37
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Ok, got the diffs yesterday and installed them, pretty nice by the way. Then installed an old am radio an servos I got from a friend.Now theres a new problem. When I went to go start the engine, I pulled the cord one time, and it didnt coil back up? Is it broken or is it fixable? Never had this happen before.
Didnt really wanna spend money on a stater box until I got my rs12?

Help!!!
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Old 06-05-2004, 04:48 PM   #38
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the spring which is suppose got loose.You can put it back but hpi pullstarters are basically breaks buy new one.

here is a link that "Should" help you!
http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/psrebuild1.htm


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Old 06-07-2004, 01:03 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitro rookie
What kind of shrink wrap are you useing? I have tried that cvd cover made out of soft rubber but it just ripped that to pieces. Would like to try something else like that srink wrap your talking about.
Just normal electronics stuff. Its black. I got an assorment of different sizes for a few bucks at www.cyberguys.com
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:54 AM   #40
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looks like my spring is gone. can I just buy the spring or do I have to buy the whole ps assembly?
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:45 AM   #41
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I would suggest to buy the whole thing, I find that they are a real pain to try to work with. Hpi pull starters aren't that great. You have to make real short pulls on them. When I was running the Fe.15 I want to say I replaced about 4 of them before I went and bought a starter box.
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