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Old 03-22-2010, 11:27 AM   #1
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Default help with OS .18 in HPI RS4

I have been searching for weeks and can not find any place that will tell me exactly what i need to connect my flywheel, clutch shoe, clutch(u get the picture) assembly on my OS .18 CV-RX....

I read on a previous thread thread that i needed some kind of "nut" to attach my fly wheel and i could put a c clip in the end of it and i think that is part of the solution but i am not sure.

attached is a picture of the motor i have
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Old 03-22-2010, 04:33 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by RebelTX View Post
I have been searching for weeks and can not find any place that will tell me exactly what i need to connect my flywheel, clutch shoe, clutch(u get the picture) assembly on my OS .18 CV-RX....

I read on a previous thread thread that i needed some kind of "nut" to attach my fly wheel and i could put a c clip in the end of it and i think that is part of the solution but i am not sure.

attached is a picture of the motor i have
What u need is
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM720&P=Z

which is already on the stock engine just use a flywheel tool to remove it and put it on the new engine. Hope this helps just did it to mu rs4 with the same engine.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:22 PM   #3
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thanks for the help, i looked up the part number and was able to pick one up from the local RC shop. when i screw the new nut on it leaves a gap between the nut and the fly wheel... how do you fix this? i tried to fix it by using the nut that came with the motor to hold down the fly wheel then screwing on the new nut extension but now there is a gap between the clutch bell and fly wheel witch exposes the clutch... this makes me nervous...

here is a pic of what im talking about
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:59 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by RebelTX View Post
thanks for the help, i looked up the part number and was able to pick one up from the local RC shop. when i screw the new nut on it leaves a gap between the nut and the fly wheel... how do you fix this? i tried to fix it by using the nut that came with the motor to hold down the fly wheel then screwing on the new nut extension but now there is a gap between the clutch bell and fly wheel witch exposes the clutch... this makes me nervous...

here is a pic of what im talking about

Yeah something is off the clutchbell should hide the clutch r u sure ur using the right clutch
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:13 AM   #5
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here is what it is supposed to look like
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:22 PM   #6
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I was told by someone to cut down the crank shaft just enough to allow the new extension to properly hold the fly wheel and eliminate the gap, im nervous about cutting down the shaft but it seems like it would solve my problem... any one have another idea? or do you think this would work?

thanks again
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:25 PM   #7
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it looks like you have a spacer between your fly wheel and motor case witch is moving your assembly forward witch is closing that gap.. my fly wheel doesn't have this... i am using all of the same equipment that came on the stock hpi motor, could this be my problem? should i upgrade?... i do plan on sending this motor to be moddified but right now i just want my car to run so i can get to break in
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:50 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by RebelTX View Post
it looks like you have a spacer between your fly wheel and motor case witch is moving your assembly forward witch is closing that gap.. my fly wheel doesn't have this... i am using all of the same equipment that came on the stock hpi motor, could this be my problem? should i upgrade?... i do plan on sending this motor to be moddified but right now i just want my car to run so i can get to break in
There is a collet between the engine nd the flywheel u do have one u have one. Go on towerhobbies part # A804 is what it looks like but u still have the gap where the clutchbell Is look at my pic there is no need to cut anything
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:30 AM   #9
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I went ahed and took the car up to my local RC shop and had the crank shaft cut down by about 3 threads, after that insulation of the fly wheel and clutch assembly went smoothly and we had the motor back on the frame in no time. I hope to try and start the car in the morning.
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Old 03-24-2010, 04:49 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by RebelTX View Post
I went ahed and took the car up to my local RC shop and had the crank shaft cut down by about 3 threads, after that insulation of the fly wheel and clutch assembly went smoothly and we had the motor back on the frame in no time. I hope to try and start the car in the morning.
Good luck nd have fun lean out the motor a couple of turns ur going to have a hard time starting it. First thing put a hot air gun around the engine for a couple of minutes.
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:36 AM   #11
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Great advice man, i ended up pumping near a half tank of fuel though it to try and lubricate everything decently, once i had that done it was allot easier to pull on. Probably took about 10min of pulling and pumping before i got it started. Ran 7 tanks for Break in with around 15 min between each. tomorrow i will run 2 tanks thru at a time and keep it pretty rich for the now... im about to go read some tuning threads
pictures & maybe a video in a few days

Thanks again for the help everyone
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:39 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by RebelTX View Post
Great advice man, i ended up pumping near a half tank of fuel though it to try and lubricate everything decently, once i had that done it was allot easier to pull on. Probably took about 10min of pulling and pumping before i got it started. Ran 7 tanks for Break in with around 15 min between each. tomorrow i will run 2 tanks thru at a time and keep it pretty rich for the now... im about to go read some tuning threads
pictures & maybe a video in a few days

Thanks again for the help everyone

No Problem and have fun. Where u from?
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