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Old 04-29-2010, 01:14 PM   #31
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rear bumper height, pretty much everyone uses the ROAR maximum height because the higher you cut the less air will be built up under the back of the car lending to less rear lift

rear side bumper, never noticed a difference other than the standard way people cut the stratus tucks but it is arguably more side surface area in a corner.

rear/side window cutting, creates more drag but creates more cooling. you are required to have the front window in a certain place and a certain size.

body position, i believe it only works with 1/8th scale bodies. i don't think 10th scale produces enough downforce to have ever felt it.

mounting height, again governed by roar/ifmar/efra to a minimum height at the roof line so i think everyone just uses that.

there can be rake involved in mounting height, you can run the rear of the car lower or higher than the front to remove/get a tiny bit of downforce but you have to gain or sacrifice wing size (even with the top of the body by the rules)

I usually have only one pair of holes in my front body posts and two on the rear just to see if a specific body is better or worse slightly angled. that is why xray has those adjustable body mounts.


One last thing, I was just reading through the 2010 ROAR book and found these quotes new to me.

"Detailed headlights, signal markers, grille and taillights appropriate for
each vehicle (where applicable) must be applied by paint or decal"

"No objectionable or suggestive art, decals, or lettering will be permitted."
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musti72 View Post
So, lets talk about some different cutting styles, and mountings of the bodies...
There are lots of factors that hugely effects the handling. These are all I know;

Side dams: This can be useful on low grip tracks, when you need rear end grip at the corners.

rear bumper height: ? I guess cutting it higher makes the air flow better, resulting overall better handling but Ifmar/Efra have a limit to this.

rear side bumper(little piece behind the rear wheels) size: ?

rear, and side window cutting: ?

positioning the body on the car towards front/rear: When you mount it more towards the front, car has more steering.

Cutting the front, side bumper:? Dirk Wischnewski told me that he tries to cut it as much as possible, and mount the body as low as possible to achieve best handling. A also saw it on most pro's bodies. They usually try to cut the line very near to the "horizontal" part of the front bumper.

Mounting balance, rear vs front: ? I sometimes see that racers mount the rear end of the body higher than front, but I dont know the effect of it...

There is a lot you can do to make a body handle like you want it to.

You can do a lot with the side dams, they make the rear wing much more effective so rear grip, especially at high speed is increased.
You can cut them in different shapes to change the way they work.
Personally I never use them on the stratus, I really like them on the Audi though.

Rear bumper height is easy, cut it to the max. height allowed.

The rear side bumper is also something you can tune the body with, shortening them will add steering but I try to keep them as long as possible because they add rear grip without increasing drag.

Windows you should cut to your liking and within the rules, I like to cut the rear window as low as possible, this way you can reduce the amount of 'dirty air' going over the rear wing.

I run all of my body's more towards the front, for the stratus around 2mm.
It gives the car an amount of steering and agility which is hard to achieve by car setup without making the car very nervous.

Cutting the front bumper, on the stratus this is the thing to do. Like you said most run the front bumper cut away until the horizontal piece (the splitter)
This way the front splitter can be used at maximum effect and thus increasing front end downforce.

Inclination of the body, I run all of my body's inclined towards the front, never mount a body inclined a body towards the back it will make it useless.
Again this increases overall downforce, the entire body will work as a splitter.
You will end up with a very small rear wing but this isn't a problem, you can easily recover rear end grip by mounting the wing more towards the rear.
If you plan to run the body inclined, make sure you cut the body inclined as well, keep the sides parallel to the chassis.
A lot of people cut the sides straight so air can escape towards the rear sides, and so they think the inclined body makes the car very nervous and oversteer.
Also the small wing will increase top speed, the wings used on our body's are highly inefficient and create a hugh amount of drag compared to a relatively small amount of downforce.


Tomorrow I will cut and paint a new stratus, I will post some pictures here to show everything I mentioned above.

I've cut my R5N the same way as I cut my stratus and it really made the body a lot better, if you cut it like protoform wants you to it will have some very bad understeer.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:32 PM   #33
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Thanks first of all, for the detailed explanations, Brian and DS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Windows you should cut to your liking and within the rules, I like to cut the rear window as low as possible, this way you can reduce the amount of 'dirty air' going over the rear wing.
How do you cut the rear window as low as possible, do you mean the upper side of the window hole is as low as possible?
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musti72 View Post
Thanks first of all, for the detailed explanations, Brian and DS.



How do you cut the rear window as low as possible, do you mean the upper side of the window hole is as low as possible?
The lower side of the hole as low as possible, right at the start of the bootlid.
This way you basically increase the length of the roof which channels the air towards the wing.
Tomorrow I will have some pictures of the rear window as well, my current stratus is in a too sorry state to take pictures off after some high speed crashes last weekend.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:06 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
The lower side of the hole as low as possible, right at the start of the bootlid.
This way you basically increase the length of the roof which channels the air towards the wing.
Tomorrow I will have some pictures of the rear window as well, my current stratus is in a too sorry state to take pictures off after some high speed crashes last weekend.
I'm interested in your wing side dam ideas as well, apparently after reading through the rule book more it seems like we are just recently required to run them. I never have because it was always just something to either glue, or fall off. The rule has always restricted the height maximum to the top of the wing and the side area the size of the wing more or less but you can go quite a bit lower than the wing.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
There is a lot you can do to make a body handle like you want it to.

You can do a lot with the side dams, they make the rear wing much more effective so rear grip, especially at high speed is increased.
You can cut them in different shapes to change the way they work.
Personally I never use them on the stratus, I really like them on the Audi though.

Rear bumper height is easy, cut it to the max. height allowed.

The rear side bumper is also something you can tune the body with, shortening them will add steering but I try to keep them as long as possible because they add rear grip without increasing drag.

Windows you should cut to your liking and within the rules, I like to cut the rear window as low as possible, this way you can reduce the amount of 'dirty air' going over the rear wing.

I run all of my body's more towards the front, for the stratus around 2mm.
It gives the car an amount of steering and agility which is hard to achieve by car setup without making the car very nervous.

Cutting the front bumper, on the stratus this is the thing to do. Like you said most run the front bumper cut away until the horizontal piece (the splitter)
This way the front splitter can be used at maximum effect and thus increasing front end downforce.

Inclination of the body, I run all of my body's inclined towards the front, never mount a body inclined a body towards the back it will make it useless.
Again this increases overall downforce, the entire body will work as a splitter.
You will end up with a very small rear wing but this isn't a problem, you can easily recover rear end grip by mounting the wing more towards the rear.
If you plan to run the body inclined, make sure you cut the body inclined as well, keep the sides parallel to the chassis.
A lot of people cut the sides straight so air can escape towards the rear sides, and so they think the inclined body makes the car very nervous and oversteer.
Also the small wing will increase top speed, the wings used on our body's are highly inefficient and create a hugh amount of drag compared to a relatively small amount of downforce.


Tomorrow I will cut and paint a new stratus, I will post some pictures here to show everything I mentioned above.

I've cut my R5N the same way as I cut my stratus and it really made the body a lot better, if you cut it like protoform wants you to it will have some very bad understeer.
I'd like to see how you trimmed the R5N!!!!
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Old 05-01-2010, 09:40 PM   #37
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You have another one to try out now.

Protoform P56
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Last edited by Scott Fisher; 05-10-2010 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:44 AM   #38
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bump, still some interesting posts above to be answered (pictures would be great)
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:56 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
bump, still some interesting posts above to be answered (pictures would be great)
Ditto.... Where you at DS????
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:18 PM   #40
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:41 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
bump, still some interesting posts above to be answered (pictures would be great)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Ditto.... Where you at DS????
I'm very busy at work, working 12-14 hours a day because our team recently expanded from 2 till 8 cars.
Last test we had a lot of damage, 3 blown engines and one car completely written off after it barrel rolled 4 times when it hit the gravel @ 160 KM/H
Hope to finish early some day this week so I have some time to rebuild the RC car and take some pictures.
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:58 PM   #42
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Blitz ISF bodies in stock. The problem in the lexan has being fixed. Check your LHS or go to serpentamerica.com
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:17 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
According to the roar website, the only bodies on his list that are roar legal are the Protoform DNA, R5N and the Blitz Altis. I know the Stratus is being renewed and actually should have been done already but somebody forgot something. It will be back on the list shortly.

Currently, neither of the Xceed bodies or the Blitz RS4 are on the list of legal bodies..
Well, these are legal for the Worlds, and it includes the chevy and the RS4.

http://www.2010ifmar200mmsedanworlds...st_10scale.pdf
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:51 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75 View Post
Well, these are legal for the Worlds, and it includes the chevy and the RS4.

http://www.2010ifmar200mmsedanworlds...st_10scale.pdf
Yep, I was only talking about Roar races (such as the upcoming Nats).
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:33 PM   #45
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any feed back about the blitz isf body?
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