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Old 04-14-2004, 09:18 AM   #61
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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Interesting, but it doesn't establish anything. On that basis it would be prudent to always use a short line to ensure sufficient pressure under all circumstances.

From our experience, we use the same length of pressure line irrespective of track with no issue.

I'd suggest there may be some tuning issues mixed up in this, but they haven't been shown to be singularly pressure line issues.

If it works for you, that's great, but I'd be interested to see the science established.
it was the same tune (for small track not the previous week's long-track setting),... and I was fiddling w/ many options w/ the needles,.. won't fix the problem,... will either be good on one area, but not on others,... until I tried to play w/ the tube length (ex. side),... works like magic, I can see many happy smirking faces turns worried and sweaty when it pulls real hard on a low-mid sweeper to WOT straight (ecstatic....)

btw, I was using an OS TR(P)T and modified version of OS T-1031 muffler on a Kyosho FW05R (if this info can help). IMHO, when using longer tubing, it will stay at "lean setting" longer, as there will be less pressure entering the tank (dampened by the longer tubing),... when using short tubing,... it'll get to "rich setting" quicker on acceleration by letting more pressure entering the tank at higher response speed,.. my dumb example: when spitting w/ a short tube (your mouth only) it'll be spat quicker compared to spitting using a longer tube (your mouth + a straw) you will need more force to fill the straw first before some actual spit exit the straw (eeeewww,.....)
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Old 04-14-2004, 10:55 PM   #62
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nitropimp, i also use mugen pressure chamber iand i´ve noticed at the winters04 that pressure chamber in keisuke fukada´s (mrx3 and mtx3), mike swauger´s (mrx3 and mtx3) and masao tanaka´s (mrx3) cars . And all of them are mounted the opposite way you do, the wide side at the entrance (exhaust) and the narrow towards the exit (fuel tank) . Here in spain we use that way also. hope this helps.
A-RASSS- thanks for the heads up on bassackwards job I did.

Well I should have time this week to break in my engine so I'll post how the Volume Increase Canister works....
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Old 04-15-2004, 03:17 AM   #63
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Originally posted by Nitropimp
Well I should have time this week to break in my engine so I'll post how the Volume Increase Canister works....
I'd be interested to know why it works.
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Old 04-16-2004, 09:46 PM   #64
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I have one of those Mugen canisters laying on my bench... I think I am going to give it a try to see if I notice any tuning differences. The guy who gave it to me said it helps eliminate the "hesitation" after you fuel up during the race... he said that with the tank full of fuel there is very little air volume, and this adds some volume to the system and (supposedly) does something to the pulses when they go from a small dia hose to a much larger chamber and back to the small hose.... I aint smart enough to understand it all... but if it makes my car work better.........
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:43 PM   #65
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everyone(including Ron Paris) gave boost bottles a BEATING when they were installed on engines(even though some 21 engine makers use them)....and go kart and MX bikes have used them...

so why the sudden interest in a theory that everyone hated?...

and why not stick a boost bottle with a t fitting in the exhaust side..
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:59 PM   #66
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These aren't like boost bottles are they? I thought the boost bottles had a valve drilled into the carb and then had fuel tubing hooked on bottle to catch excess fuel going into the engine???

All I know I can starve my engine without worring about it. I like the throttle response from it. I don't how it works but I like it.
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Old 04-26-2004, 11:19 PM   #67
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Well its not a boost bottle as I know them... the "boost bottles" I have seen hook to the crankcase not in the presure line to the fuel tank like what we are talking about ... but theres a lot I dont know
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Old 04-27-2004, 02:18 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
everyone(including Ron Paris) gave boost bottles a BEATING when they were installed on engines(even though some 21 engine makers use them)....and go kart and MX bikes have used them...

so why the sudden interest in a theory that everyone hated?...

and why not stick a boost bottle with a t fitting in the exhaust side..
Yep... I wondered that too.... untill I actually read the posts and saw that they are not talking about boostbottles.
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Old 05-18-2004, 10:38 AM   #69
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Talking emmmmmmmmm.... anyway

emmmmmmmmm.... i am blur...

ok

ok

ok


emmmmmmm.....

if you install this thingie .... i mean the canister...

can you adjust it to suit the track?

i mean can you adjust the canister to give more or less pressure to the tank.... so NO need for you to change the tube lenght everytime you change track?

in other words.... IS THE CANISTER ADJUSTABLE?

or

are there ADJUSTABLE CANISTER out there in the market?



mop

Last edited by mop_iko; 05-19-2004 at 07:21 AM.
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Old 05-18-2004, 12:01 PM   #70
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Not that I've heard of.. If you want a smaller pressure line just run a short direct line without the canister. The pressure chamber basically let's you have the advantages of long fuel tubing........that's all. You can try to absorb of the technical jumbo mumbo stuff or just try it and see if your engine perfoms well with it. I think my VIC cost around $15.

good luck
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Old 05-20-2004, 11:36 PM   #71
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Only advice I can offer to this thread is, I had a problem with my G4 spraying fuel out of the tank lid. Decided to add a 1/8 scale gutted fuel filter directly behind the exhaust inlet on the tank.

My thinking was that back pressure was causing the tank lid to lift and spray fuel everywhere.

Not sure if my thinking was right but by installing the thing directly (bout 1/4-1/2inch) behind the exhaust inlet the lid on the tank no longer lifts and I no longer have the leaking lid problem.

As far as performance goes it seems to have hurt performance more than helped it engine seems to run more rich now.

I'm sure I will get it running good with a retune but the fact that the engine runs richer with the thing on there definitely proves it makes a difference...wether or not that difference is beneficial depends on your situation, in mine once i get the tune right again it was definitely beneficial.
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Old 05-21-2004, 05:27 AM   #72
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works for me...
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Old 05-21-2004, 05:17 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brightbluehaze

:
<SNIP>
:
My thinking was that back pressure was causing the tank lid to lift and spray fuel everywhere.

Not sure if my thinking was right but by installing the thing directly (bout 1/4-1/2inch) behind the exhaust inlet the lid on the tank no longer lifts and I no longer have the leaking lid problem.
I'd be surprised if the minimal pressure generated by the exhaust was enough to cause the tank lid to lift in the first place, but if so, you'd have a tank lid seal issue - maybe a wonky seal.
And adding the gutted filter won't have changed the pressure.
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Old 05-22-2004, 06:18 AM   #74
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this is my theory...

Having that canister thing makes more pressure in the back pressure line, thus putting more pressure on fuel to get out faster and making the engine running more rich because more fuel is delivered. If more fuel is delived than needed than you can lean out the motor more, giving you more performance.
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:46 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally posted by compaq888
this is my theory...

Having that canister thing makes more pressure in the back pressure line, thus putting more pressure on fuel to get out faster and making the engine running more rich because more fuel is delivered. If more fuel is delived than needed than you can lean out the motor more, giving you more performance.
The theory that an inanimate object could "create" pressure is an interesting one.
. . . though, come to think of it, Baked Beans might fall into the catagory.
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