TIRED Of My RTR
#1
TIRED Of My RTR
Aight im goddamn tired of my nitro RS4 3, Ive had it for about 5 years, dang thats old, and its been giving me trouble ever since, stripped gears, broken rotostarts, broken pull starts, stripped bulkheads, broken battery holders,broken tuned pipe,leaking gas tank, etc etc.Sadly ive put up with it with and now giving it up. I hate it because you dont really have engine choices, you got to have threaded shaft, and IMO its overpriced. Im going for a new car but I dont want to go get the same ole car but I want a step up In quality.I am very CONFUSEDon what to get next, people say dont get a kit if you are not going to race..I want to experience what its like to build a kit. Im a basher, I go out on the streets , I go to a nearby parking lot and setup a lil track.There really isnt a club around here. My biggest concern is will rocks chew up belts, I occasionally will get rocks in my RS4 and have them stripped.I want a reliable car that will stay reliable four to six years.There is no budget, and yeah ill search parts online. I dont want to constantly buy parts like the RS4
so are these pro touring cars any more vulnerable to pebbles than shaft driven cars? back up your claims if you used both types. will this vary with the type of brand and quality?
Whats the reason for belt driven cars then?
RTR cars I am considering
1.Kyosho FW 05RR
2.Kyosho FW 06
2.Team Magic G4S RTR
AE TC3
Kyosho Fazer
KITS
Team Magic G4 JS
Xray NT1EC
Xray NT1R
Hopefully some guys will clear things up
so are these pro touring cars any more vulnerable to pebbles than shaft driven cars? back up your claims if you used both types. will this vary with the type of brand and quality?
Whats the reason for belt driven cars then?
RTR cars I am considering
1.Kyosho FW 05RR
2.Kyosho FW 06
2.Team Magic G4S RTR
AE TC3
Kyosho Fazer
KITS
Team Magic G4 JS
Xray NT1EC
Xray NT1R
Hopefully some guys will clear things up
Last edited by macrous99; 02-09-2010 at 05:52 PM.
#2
Your asking advice in a forum were most guys buy a new car every year and order $700 or $800 worth of spare parts to get the racing season started. If your not on a cleaned track stay with shaft drive. RTR is what you want. No idea were you get a car that lasts 4-6 years. Many racers take the car completly apart after each race and replace anything that doesn't look absolutly perfect. Just because its a race kit doesnt mean it wont break or wear out.
#3
+1 on staying with the shaft-driven drivetrain - rocks wreak havoc on drive belts...
You could probably find an Associated NTC3 pretty cheap, since they're not the best for competitive racing. They do, however, allow for many different engine choices, and are faster and more durable than the Nitro RS4 3.
You could probably find an Associated NTC3 pretty cheap, since they're not the best for competitive racing. They do, however, allow for many different engine choices, and are faster and more durable than the Nitro RS4 3.
#4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Aight im goddamn tired of my nitro RS4 3, Ive had it for about 5 years, dang thats old, and its been giving me trouble ever since, stripped gears, broken rotostarts, broken pull starts, stripped bulkheads, broken battery holders,broken tuned pipe,leaking gas tank, etc etc.Sadly ive put up with it with and now giving it up. I hate it because you dont really have engine choices, you got to have threaded shaft, and IMO its overpriced. Im going for a new car but I dont want to go get the same ole car but I want a step up In quality.I am very CONFUSEDon what to get next, people say dont get a kit if you are not going to race..I want to experience what its like to build a kit. Im a basher, I go out on the streets , I go to a nearby parking lot and setup a lil track.There really isnt a club around here. My biggest concern is will rocks chew up belts, I occasionally will get rocks in my RS4 and have them stripped.I want a reliable car that will stay reliable four to six years.There is no budget, and yeah ill search parts online. I dont want to constantly buy parts like the RS4
so are these pro touring cars any more vulnerable to pebbles than shaft driven cars? back up your claims if you used both types. will this vary with the type of brand and quality?
Whats the reason for belt driven cars then?
RTR cars I am considering
1.Kyosho FW 05RR
2.Kyosho FW 06
2.Team Magic G4S RTR
AE TC3
Kyosho Fazer
KITS
Team Magic G4 JS
Xray NT1EC
Xray NT1R
Hopefully some guys will clear things up
so are these pro touring cars any more vulnerable to pebbles than shaft driven cars? back up your claims if you used both types. will this vary with the type of brand and quality?
Whats the reason for belt driven cars then?
RTR cars I am considering
1.Kyosho FW 05RR
2.Kyosho FW 06
2.Team Magic G4S RTR
AE TC3
Kyosho Fazer
KITS
Team Magic G4 JS
Xray NT1EC
Xray NT1R
Hopefully some guys will clear things up
You are confused...if your RS4 has belts..its not a RS4 3 but and RS4 2 and that car is much older than 5 years old!?! If that is the case, then it is definitely time for you to upgrade.
Since bashing is going to be your main thing, I'd recommend the Kyosho FW06 if you can get one. they are are out of productions but Kyosho still supports them in terms of parts. The cars shares some parts found on their belt driven V-one-RRR series. Its also has more adjustability than the RTR Fazor. And the best thing about it is its Shaft-driven.
Many like the NTC3 becasue of its ability to seat a big block nitro engine (with a liitle modification) The RTR version does not give you that many settign adjustments but you can upgrade parts for more adjustments. If you get the Team Kit you get many more adjustments than the RTR, but I think its kind of pricey just for bashing in the parking lots.
As far as belt drive vs shaft drive, the belt driven cars tend to have a free-er transmission that utilies more of the motors horsepower. the downside is, it requires more regular maintanence and a more cleaner track/surface to run on, so as not tget pebbles in the drive-train. I've had the fortune of having a belt-driven car that I raced in the parking lots course without ever stripping gears due to rocks. Most of the lots had freshly laid pavement or were cleaned before setting up the track.
So in closing I'l just say get get a shaft driven car...it seems like that will suit your needs better that a kit and save you money too.
#5
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
The first thing you need to invest in is a gas blower - that way you can clean the track off and have no problems with rocks etc. As you all ready have an RS4 and spares, upgrade to a RS4 Super Nitro, you will be surprised in the difference, and you may even get to enjoy yourself.
#6
Your asking advice in a forum were most guys buy a new car every year and order $700 or $800 worth of spare parts to get the racing season started. If your not on a cleaned track stay with shaft drive. RTR is what you want. No idea were you get a car that lasts 4-6 years. Many racers take the car completly apart after each race and replace anything that doesn't look absolutly perfect. Just because its a race kit doesnt mean it wont break or wear out.
#7
+1 on staying with the shaft-driven drivetrain - rocks wreak havoc on drive belts...
You could probably find an Associated NTC3 pretty cheap, since they're not the best for competitive racing. They do, however, allow for many different engine choices, and are faster and more durable than the Nitro RS4 3.
You could probably find an Associated NTC3 pretty cheap, since they're not the best for competitive racing. They do, however, allow for many different engine choices, and are faster and more durable than the Nitro RS4 3.
#8
You are confused...if your RS4 has belts..its not a RS4 3 but and RS4 2 and that car is much older than 5 years old!?! If that is the case, then it is definitely time for you to upgrade.
Since bashing is going to be your main thing, I'd recommend the Kyosho FW06 if you can get one. they are are out of productions but Kyosho still supports them in terms of parts. The cars shares some parts found on their belt driven V-one-RRR series. Its also has more adjustability than the RTR Fazor. And the best thing about it is its Shaft-driven.
Many like the NTC3 becasue of its ability to seat a big block nitro engine (with a liitle modification) The RTR version does not give you that many settign adjustments but you can upgrade parts for more adjustments. If you get the Team Kit you get many more adjustments than the RTR, but I think its kind of pricey just for bashing in the parking lots.
As far as belt drive vs shaft drive, the belt driven cars tend to have a free-er transmission that utilies more of the motors horsepower. the downside is, it requires more regular maintanence and a more cleaner track/surface to run on, so as not tget pebbles in the drive-train. I've had the fortune of having a belt-driven car that I raced in the parking lots course without ever stripping gears due to rocks. Most of the lots had freshly laid pavement or were cleaned before setting up the track.
So in closing I'l just say get get a shaft driven car...it seems like that will suit your needs better that a kit and save you money too.
Since bashing is going to be your main thing, I'd recommend the Kyosho FW06 if you can get one. they are are out of productions but Kyosho still supports them in terms of parts. The cars shares some parts found on their belt driven V-one-RRR series. Its also has more adjustability than the RTR Fazor. And the best thing about it is its Shaft-driven.
Many like the NTC3 becasue of its ability to seat a big block nitro engine (with a liitle modification) The RTR version does not give you that many settign adjustments but you can upgrade parts for more adjustments. If you get the Team Kit you get many more adjustments than the RTR, but I think its kind of pricey just for bashing in the parking lots.
As far as belt drive vs shaft drive, the belt driven cars tend to have a free-er transmission that utilies more of the motors horsepower. the downside is, it requires more regular maintanence and a more cleaner track/surface to run on, so as not tget pebbles in the drive-train. I've had the fortune of having a belt-driven car that I raced in the parking lots course without ever stripping gears due to rocks. Most of the lots had freshly laid pavement or were cleaned before setting up the track.
So in closing I'l just say get get a shaft driven car...it seems like that will suit your needs better that a kit and save you money too.
What I dont get is how come RTRs like the Traxxas 4TEC, CEN CT5, G4 JR, Hyper GPX4,etc etc can be considered parking lot bashers, wouldnt they be horrible for parking lots??
#9
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Tired of my rtr
Even though they make look somewhat like each other, dont be fooled into thinking a RTR can complete with a good kit on the track. Cars that claim high speeds are made for that, straight line high speed runs, but are worthless on the track. They give up handling for high speeds. Many newcomers think that the claimed high speeds mean they are the cars to have. You can make a MT18 go close to 60mph, but it would not handle well at all. So you need to choose, do you want claimed high speed runs and no handling, or maybe a little less on the top end, but with a car that can compete on the track. Everyone will tell you that the races are won in the corners, which means a car that handles well.
#10
No no no what I was talking about was the belt drive, those RTRs are belt drive designed for beginnners...
#11
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Car manufacturers and, predominantly, racing RC cars, use belt drive because you can center the mass of the components on the car for better weight balance and better moment of inertia when turning. It also helps with the overall layout of the components on the chassis. The shaft runs pretty much straight up the middle of shaft driven cars, splitting the car in half so the car ends up being wider as a result. Race RC cars are driven on clean tracks so pebbles won't typically get into the drive system. As you've correctly surmised, shaft drive is better for bashing on uncleaned parking lots and typical streets. Why do manufacturers use belt drive for what would otherwise be a basher? Because they can save some manufacturing cost by reusing parts from their racing cars on their lower priced cars. Like the V-One S using belts because of the V-One R. The bulkheads and other parts are the same between the two cars which cuts manufacturing costs. It can also lead to more parts sales after you've picked up a pebble or two in the drivetrain and that means more money in their pockets.
What I've found from years of playing with these cars is that a low priced OFNA 1/8 buggy converted to an on-road car (or one that comes that way out of the box) would make a great parking lot basher. It's got the heart of a buggy so it's tough as nails. It's shaft drive so no worries about pebbles, it runs a big .21 or larger engine so it can be really fast, especially if you put a two-speed into it. That's just my opinion, though.
The best RC car to get would be something that you can get parts for locally. If you break something on the car then it can be aggravating waiting for a part to arrive by mail.
What I've found from years of playing with these cars is that a low priced OFNA 1/8 buggy converted to an on-road car (or one that comes that way out of the box) would make a great parking lot basher. It's got the heart of a buggy so it's tough as nails. It's shaft drive so no worries about pebbles, it runs a big .21 or larger engine so it can be really fast, especially if you put a two-speed into it. That's just my opinion, though.
The best RC car to get would be something that you can get parts for locally. If you break something on the car then it can be aggravating waiting for a part to arrive by mail.
#12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
RTR
Do you want to go with belt driven, or shaft driven car. Both have pros and cons when it comes to running in parking lots.
Shaft driven cars have torque steer, and are cheaper cost wise than a belt driven kit.
I personally would not have another shaft driven car, but then again I do not run in parking lots or up and down the street.
There are gives and takes to both style of cars when you run in an uncleaned area.
#13
Tech Rookie
Aight im goddamn tired of my nitro RS4 3, Ive had it for about 5 years, dang thats old, and its been giving me trouble ever since, stripped gears, broken rotostarts, broken pull starts, stripped bulkheads, broken battery holders,broken tuned pipe,leaking gas tank, etc etc.
Personally, I have a NTC3 and use it for parking lot bashing. I have had it for several years now and it has stood up to most of what I've thrown at it. Currently have an O.S. 18CV-R in it and it runs great. For the purposes of use you have stated, I would add another +1 for the NTC3.
#14
Ha what about the Schumacher Fusion 28 I don't know that much about it but 3 speed transmission sounds cool. I think its belt drive.
#15
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
RTR
It is made for one thing, high speeds.
They sacrifice handling for high speed runs.
The Fusion with a big block is out of balance and will not even come close to keeping up on a track.
I am not putting the Fusion down, but it is made for one thing, top end speed.
The length of pavement needed to get the Fusion to the claimed high speed, is much longer than any RC track around
This is why he needs to think about what he wants.
A car with high speeds, or a car with great speeds that handles great.