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Old 02-10-2010, 09:49 AM   #16
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Yeah I followed my manual and it told me to put the small bearing inside the bell, the large bearing on the end of the bell with the thrust bearing on it under the screw at the end. That's where I got confused. So I guess just because it's the same clutch type means they don't all go together the same way? So by following the RRR instructions I still have the same problem I did lol.
I have a Shimo kit and instruction manual. It says to put the larger bearing (5x10x4) on the side of the clutch bell closer to the engine. The smaller (5x8x2.5) bearing goes on the outside with the thrust bearing.
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Old 02-10-2010, 04:47 PM   #17
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I have a Shimo kit and instruction manual. It says to put the larger bearing (5x10x4) on the side of the clutch bell closer to the engine. The smaller (5x8x2.5) bearing goes on the outside with the thrust bearing.
HA! That was it! I was simply getting the 2 bearing reversed! I have it together perfectly now! Thank you!
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:57 PM   #18
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good to know u sorted this out!
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:40 PM   #19
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Thanks! Once I receive and install my new servo horns tomorrow I'll be ready to fire her up! I'm totally stoked!
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:32 PM   #20
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I'm having the same problem here. I just got X-ray NT1 '12 and O.S. 12XZ ABC engine. Built the clutch as directed in manual and there's no clutch gap at all. Actually I got this car and engine from somebody else and he had already built the car with engine. I disassembled it shortly after engine breaking in(it was never run) because the wheels would not run while the engine was running just fine. So I figured maybe the preload was too tight but that was not the problem. So I built the clutch again and everything seemed to have been built fine. After ruling out one by one, I came to a conclusion that it's got to be the flywheel collet(collar). The guy used 5mm long collet and there was another in a bag which was 7mm.
It seems that I'm supposed to use 6mm collet instead according to x-ray's recommendation but not 100% sure because I don't know if O.S. engines are Picco or Novarossi type. I'm a electric guy and this is my first nitro car lol. Some help here please? I'm going to order 6mm collet anyway in the mean time.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:34 PM   #21
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I'm having the same problem here. I just got X-ray NT1 '12 and O.S. 12XZ ABC engine. Built the clutch as directed in manual and there's no clutch gap at all. Actually I got this car and engine from somebody else and he had already built the car with engine. I disassembled it shortly after engine breaking in(it was never run) because the wheels would not run while the engine was running just fine. So I figured maybe the preload was too tight but that was not the problem. So I built the clutch again and everything seemed to have been built fine. After ruling out one by one, I came to a conclusion that it's got to be the flywheel collet(collar). The guy used 5mm long collet and there was another in a bag which was 7mm.
It seems that I'm supposed to use 6mm collet instead according to x-ray's recommendation but not 100% sure because I don't know if O.S. engines are Picco or Novarossi type. I'm a electric guy and this is my first nitro car lol. Some help here please? I'm going to order 6mm collet anyway in the mean time.
And Team X ray has their own recommended collets. So does this mean that I can't use any other collet from different companies??
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:54 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 92GTA View Post
Yeah I followed my manual and it told me to put the small bearing inside the bell, the large bearing on the end of the bell with the thrust bearing on it under the screw at the end. That's where I got confused. So I guess just because it's the same clutch type means they don't all go together the same way? So by following the RRR instructions I still have the same problem I did lol.
Use a longer thrust bearing retainer!

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prodimg/K14133-3.jpg

Like one of these. Take a measuement of your existing one's length and get one slightly longer. Alternately you could just shim out the retainer between the crank with small shims, but they are a pain and u lose them when servicing the clutch.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:56 PM   #23
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And Team X ray has their own recommended collets. So does this mean that I can't use any other collet from different companies??
If the collet's angle suits the flywheel and doesnt protrude inside its good. If it is too long a cone it wont let you tighten the flywheel.

PS: I've sat my fair amount of timein front of a wetstone grinding my collets, with patience there's nothing to really get worked up about, ensure it's ground evenly and it's all good. The gap bewteen the engine's block (or front bearing) and the flywheel is quite small nowadays, taking note, I have many collets that are just too long for my clutches.

PPS: It wouldnt hurt to get the correct collets for your kit's clutch.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:42 AM   #24
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One tip. Before installing the flywheel, just make a hard pull on the crankshaft and be sure the collar is pushed against the bearing while pulling on the crankshaft. Sometimes the crankshaft is pushed in taking away some tenths of a mm from the gap.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:07 PM   #25
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I know this posting is more than 2 y old but I have exactly same problem. I don't know how exactly this guy solved the problem(he jumbles around in his explanation). But my Xray NT1 2012 with O.S. engine had exactly same problem. No shim behind flywheel for sure. Still no gap when I put together everything. I ended up putting a shim at the end of crankshaft to lengthen the shaft itself. I was lucky to have a shim with exactly same diameter as the crankshaft. IMO, grinding collet is dumbest thought ever. Buy a correct one if you have time to do that. As far as collet fits right onto crankshaft and doesn't stick out of the flywheel when you tighten it all the way(if it sticks out, you can't tighten the flywheel anyway), it doesn't matter what brand of collet you use. It's just that finding correct collet can be hard.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
I know this posting is more than 2 y old but I have exactly same problem. I don't know how exactly this guy solved the problem(he jumbles around in his explanation). But my Xray NT1 2012 with O.S. engine had exactly same problem. No shim behind flywheel for sure. Still no gap when I put together everything. I ended up putting a shim at the end of crankshaft to lengthen the shaft itself. I was lucky to have a shim with exactly same diameter as the crankshaft. IMO, grinding collet is dumbest thought ever. Buy a correct one if you have time to do that. As far as collet fits right onto crankshaft and doesn't stick out of the flywheel when you tighten it all the way(if it sticks out, you can't tighten the flywheel anyway), it doesn't matter what brand of collet you use. It's just that finding correct collet can be hard.
Xray has clear instructions on how to do it. But it can be difficult. What Roelof said about pulling the crankshaft is something one can easy forget. This will not resolve just by thightening the nut. And a 9,1 mm shaft protruding when you have the flywheel with nut on is a quick check. Still the bearing retainer with the thrustbearing have differant lengths so this is important also. But with 9,1 mm checked you know its the bearing retainer wich needs to be longer. Hope this info helps you.

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