Vector03cobra

iTrader: (11)

I would rather put myself at a disadvantage at a club race then an advantage.

I think with a Lipo and light wheels you can get the MX5 down to 200-210 under weight. prolly more with a super light body and small tires.

Crazy how light 1/8th scale cars have become.

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

Bro you weight it with new tires or small ones??

Abit too heavy..

West03

Glenn, I happen to try the R11 on the weekend and have to say it's not bad. Mounted the body at 18mm and found it had some push on corner entry. Moved the body to 20mm and it starter to turn in better. I think this body will work better mounted at 22mm.

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

yes i run lightweight tires, lipo, alum axles, tit here and there and superlight body i rather have the advantage..

West03

I am almost certain that the runaway issues with the MRX5 is related to an increase in frequency noise which effect the receiver. With the receiver mounted so close to the pinion gears and the increase in frequency noise like a bearing which has become a little rough could be triggering the runaways. It could be the reason why Mugen has redesigned their radio tray to include the receiver being mounted in the opposite end.

I had a few runaways during practice at my last club day. After noticing one of the bearings was a little rough, I replaced the bearing with a new one. Since then I have not had an issue all day. I had notice that runaways happened when my trust washer and clutch bearings where at its oldest. At major events, new clutch bells and clutch assemblies are used therefore I have not experience any problem then. They are also more regularly maintain during every run. What do you guys think?

csterikim

iTrader: (2)

Dear

I ordered CSO options for my MRX 5 because I had MRX4X with CSO Pulley sets and They are reliable to keep pulley tention and save maintenance time when I have race in Club race...

It is depended on you.

Some Drivers recommend only stock parts but I had some problem with plastic pulley and lost front belt teeths.

When I installed CSO pulleys in MRX4X, I never had problem with belt and pulley..


Mate !!!

Any one know the replacement parts for H0136B part for front turnbuckle end..??

I broke front parts alot!! when I race my MRX5.

Also I tried to find H0136B part but It is included in H2112 part.. I want to get only H0136B for changed part..!!

Please Help me !!

I can not upload parts picture because RCTECH have restrict upload pictures with my user level...

If you have part list then you can find part list number

Thanks...

walo

Hello, I think you're right. Maybe you can try part #H0147F. This is from the MRX-4X manual and you can find this on the rear upper arm. They may sell it separately under this part # (H0147E). How is the performance of the car so far?

Dasmopar

So when you go to a bigger race the car is a whole different animal? That doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Also we on a club level kinda go by a gentleman's agreement meaning you play by the rules and I will do the same without us having to check over each other all the time. I have run lite at a club race I'm sure but not on purpose or any where close to that much.

fulcrum2

Hi there,

little question about mounting a body on the front end. How do you guys set-up the body height up front? Do you slam the body all the way down, let it rest on the bumper and then put the pins in the posts to have some up/down play? On the 4 we had body posts which had a support for the body and we adjusted the posts for the given body. Any tricks like that on the 5?
If I take a new body which I had already prepared for the 4 and slam it down up front I have to trim the front lip another 5mm. Right to the point where it almost becomes a sharp edge and looses some stability. Is this the way you mount yours?

Thanks for your feedback and best regards, Stefan

Phil Trotta

iTrader: (4)

You may be mounting the body too far foward ... This is what's causing you to trim so much of the front lip off. On the 5 yo want the font of the body to be 18 mm in front of the middle of the bumper (centerline of car ) the 5 has adjustable pins so if you adjust the pins foward(all four ) and mount the body 18 mm foward of bumper you will be able to try car 3mm back. It's a great tuning option. As long as you have the motor /INS box clearenced Morethan 20 mm foward makes car edgy or erratic. Un stable. Hope this helps. Nyrclive will be putting a video up on this soon. Stay tuned Phil

asw7576

I use low profile body post ( serpent allumunium body post ) + thick foam inserted between the body shell and body post.

In theory, more downward position means more front downforce ( and wind drags too ).

I cut the front lip exactly following the cutting marked / cutting line.

fulcrum2

Ah, I see. So you bring the body up a bit from the bumper by using a different body post and avoid having a "sharp" and fragile front edge of the body (maintain a little "skirt").
I find it kind of strange that Mugen does not offer a solution for this like they had on the old car. Am I missing something here?

ralphierace13

iTrader: (5)

i ran the car alot both ways really lite or i just slap in a big 1900 orion batt. and a .30 body and tell u the truth the car is the same i cant tell a diff handles the same to me, yes is it alittle quicker from point a to b oh yes, far as rules lol oh well...

csterikim

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for your response.

I also checked a lot of pages both mugen official site and rctech forum.
But Mugen did not sell any seperated parts for H0147F of MRX4X and H0136B of MRX5.

Some threads in rctech show Xray NT parts for MRX5 but I really do not know the part number.

MRX 5 is the fastest machine but front parts are very very weaker than MRX4X.

I still have MRX4X for only driving test with new electronic parts like as HV servos and Batteries.

In my opinion, MRX5 is faster than MRX4X but more weak. I think MRX5 is more stable in corner and curve way which is only my thought.

Another thing..

Anybody knows RPM Foam Tires??

I saw the tires last club race which had dish wheel.

Usually, I use GRP and Jaco tires. Please leave your opinion. I will order RPM tires for MRX 5.

Thank you.

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

The a,b,c,d stuff your seeing is the designation for one cavity in a multiy cavity mold. If you have your parts list find the box with the part in it that you need, you get all the stuff in that box. Yes H0136 is the least expensive way to obtain the ball end.