Capricorn LAB-C01
#736
Tech Regular
Why do you bother giving out a "discount" code, when it only applies to normal priced items. Anything that has been "price lowered" on your site is not eligible (about 90% of your products listed on your site have been "price lowered").
For example, a brand new item you just released:
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340
How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
For example, a brand new item you just released:
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340
How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
Just weight till all the prices go to normal, than use it.
It`s for free, as little as a dollar is ok, never complain about something that is free...
#737
Tech Adept
Why do you bother giving out a "discount" code, when it only applies to normal priced items. Anything that has been "price lowered" on your site is not eligible (about 90% of your products listed on your site have been "price lowered").
For example, a brand new item you just released:
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340
How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
For example, a brand new item you just released:
http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340
How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
the coupon discount is valid on EVERY items on the shop.
#739
Xray NT1 lightweight gear diff pins
Hello guys.
I saw Xray have now this NT1 lightweight gear diff pins.
How those compare to the ones on LAB-C01 kit, weight wise I mean?
NT1 and LAB have similar diffs, right?
I saw Xray have now this NT1 lightweight gear diff pins.
How those compare to the ones on LAB-C01 kit, weight wise I mean?
NT1 and LAB have similar diffs, right?
#740
Tech Regular
Lets say you have a reduction from motor to diff off 6,
Then the reflected inertia is 6^2, so that makes 36....
So the gain you have in loss of inertia is only 1/36 off what most people think.
Just my 2 cents.
#741
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
So you wouldn't save any weight, the only difference is the hard coating on the Xray pins. They will fit if you want to try them, but if you ask me it would be a waste of money since you already have the lightweight parts as standard.
#742
Ok, thankx for the input guys.
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
#743
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
shock lenghts
Ok, thankx for the input guys.
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
#744
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Ok, thankx for the input guys.
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?
Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.
I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
However on the front shocks I use an Xray lower ballend since I ruined the original one. But I actually like the Xray ones better, as you can see these cover the entire thread of the shock shaft, were the rears are still exposed.
Fronts:
Rears:
But it's good to hear the car is handling like it should, if you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
#745
Yes, I think that screwing the original ones to be certain it won't come off, I will have a too short shock.
I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...
What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.
Thankx for the input guys.
I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...
What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.
Thankx for the input guys.
#746
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Yes, I think that screwing the original ones to be certain it won't come off, I will have a too short shock.
I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...
What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.
Thankx for the input guys.
I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...
What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.
Thankx for the input guys.
Kindest regards,
Lars.
#747
Tech Adept
Diff or solid
Dj since u have a few races under your belt with the Cap what are u mainly running the diff or the solid? How does the car act different with the other?
#748
Tech Elite
I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
#749
Tech Adept
I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
#750
Tech Elite
iTrader: (34)
I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.
DJ Apolaro
What brand of diff oil and shock oil do you use??
I have found that there is some different between manufacturers...
For instance, a 50k Mugen is harder than 60k Xray...
Have you found similar results with different brands??