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Old 02-13-2012, 06:01 PM   #1456
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i shortened the wires a litte and then heat shrinked the whole receiver section but the heatshrink was too big to start with..

i also mounted the receiver so the wire plugs are on top not sticking to the side.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:04 PM   #1457
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:45 AM   #1458
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Could you make a picture of then?. The softest springs go in between the pads. The stiffer ones are for the gearbox.



Please list your complete setup by either filling in a setup sheet or posting it here. Also try to describe the track, a picture of the track would be even better.
The more accurate you explain everything the more accurate we can help you.

The stock belts are the low drag/rubber ones, I prefer these since they free up the drivetrain.
Hey DS here is a VID of the track on you tube to have a better idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_OEaBQVsyM

Setup sheet attached, kindly note that the front sway bar is the new system with 0.9 bar.

Thanks for your support for making me faster and faster

You don't seems to run a screw on the steering servo saver is it for more flex?
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:17 AM   #1459
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Hey DS here is a VID of the track on you tube to have a better idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_OEaBQVsyM

Setup sheet attached, kindly note that the front sway bar is the new system with 0.9 bar.

Thanks for your support for making me faster and faster

You don't seems to run a screw on the steering servo saver is it for more flex?
No, I always use the servo saver screw. I only leave out the middle axle screw since I believe it tweaks the car.

Looking at your setup I think you're running a pretty low rear roll centre which causes the car to understeer into the corner.
I would suggest changing the rear square insert to lower inner, this will raise the roll centre. If the car is still understeering try adding 1 or 2mm shims to the upright. After that you could try raising the lower rear insert to the '0' position.

Something else you can try is increasing the rear droop/ reducing the rear downstop value. This something you can try while out on the track. Have your pitman back out the droop screws a 1/4 turn at a time. If you go too far the back end will come around.

Btw, judging by the video I think the track would really suite a front solid axle. When you have fixed the understeer it might be worth a try since it gives massive acceleration out of the hairpin bends.

Also which rear arb are you using?.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:39 AM   #1460
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Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
i shortened the wires a litte and then heat shrinked the whole receiver section but the heatshrink was too big to start with..

i also mounted the receiver so the wire plugs are on top not sticking to the side.
One tip. If you run a bycicle you probably have to change the inner tube. That tube cutted in small pieces is ideal to wrap arround the receiver with mount.

If you do not have one just go to a local bike shop and ask if they have used tubes.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:59 PM   #1461
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Does anyone have any input on the optional front sway bar kit for the C02? It looks pretty trick. Looking at the manual I would think your would reinstall the front sway bar brackets minus the sway bar for more support?
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:31 AM   #1462
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Tried the following in order to get better off power entry steering:

Also to imrove off power with entry steering with some brake applied

How do you suggest i set the front roll center, ackerman and if you beleive in anything else kindly advise Thanks guys
A small addition to what DS said. Raise the front shock position to get entry steering (turn in). The front shock position are way to low for good entry turn in. Than to have more mid en exit steering play with the rear arb hardness or diff oil harder. What you can play with also, Front arb harder = more turn in but less steering overall.

Try it and let us know if it helped.

Or copy the setup from the green car.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:39 AM   #1463
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Also try to play with the round thing on your tranmitter, turning it does wonders...
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:22 PM   #1464
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
One tip. If you run a bycicle you probably have to change the inner tube. That tube cutted in small pieces is ideal to wrap arround the receiver with mount.

If you do not have one just go to a local bike shop and ask if they have used tubes.
The inner tube from a bicycle can also be used as a failsafe band, works very well.

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Does anyone have any input on the optional front sway bar kit for the C02? It looks pretty trick. Looking at the manual I would think your would reinstall the front sway bar brackets minus the sway bar for more support?
The new front wire arb is a great piece of design. The part you change is the middle part and it can be changed within a few minutes without having to readjust the tweak. As you can see in the picture below the main piece has slots on both outer sides. In the brackets there are pins which slot into these slots, ensuring the bar is mounted exactly the same every time.
Also when you want to check the tweak without the arb you don't have to pop off one of the ball ends, you simply unscrew one of the retainers.
The arb is also ball raced.


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Old 02-16-2012, 02:14 PM   #1465
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DS, I turned 180 the upper roll center plastic inserts so don't need the use of small screws and have more clearance with the schoks.

Won't loose the brace pin because the radio tray stops it

Just my 2 cents

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Old 02-16-2012, 02:47 PM   #1466
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
The new front wire arb is a great piece of design. The part you change is the middle part and it can be changed within a few minutes without having to readjust the tweak. As you can see in the picture below the main piece has slots on both outer sides. In the brackets there are pins which slot into these slots, ensuring the bar is mounted exactly the same every time.
Also when you want to check the tweak without the arb you don't have to pop off one of the ball ends, you simply unscrew one of the retainers.
The arb is also ball raced.
Whats the blue stuff i see on the outdrive`s ? special grease or something care to share it with us.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:04 PM   #1467
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DSwhat front bumper is that?
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMF View Post
DS, I turned 180 the upper roll center plastic inserts so don't need the use of small screws and have more clearance with the schoks.

Won't loose the brace pin because the radio tray stops it

Just my 2 cents
I thought about that when the entire car was assembled.
I agree it's better to turn them around, it will be faster to change the setting (you will have to remove the bracket any way) and you don't have the shock issue.
However I use a 2mm spacer on the bottom wishbone anyway to straighten the shock.

Quote:
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Whats the blue stuff i see on the outdrive`s ? special grease or something care to share it with us.
It's Capricorn blue grease, works very well to protect the outdrives and cvd's. It's very sticky so it doesn't fly off the moment you hit the throttle.

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1177

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DSwhat front bumper is that?
It's an MTX-5 bumper, but don't tell anyone.....
I thought it looked quite nice and I'm interested to see if it makes any difference in terms of front downforce.
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:47 PM   #1469
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No, I always use the servo saver screw. I only leave out the middle axle screw since I believe it tweaks the car.

Looking at your setup I think you're running a pretty low rear roll centre which causes the car to understeer into the corner.
I would suggest changing the rear square insert to lower inner, this will raise the roll centre. If the car is still understeering try adding 1 or 2mm shims to the upright. After that you could try raising the lower rear insert to the '0' position.

Something else you can try is increasing the rear droop/ reducing the rear downstop value. This something you can try while out on the track. Have your pitman back out the droop screws a 1/4 turn at a time. If you go too far the back end will come around.

Btw, judging by the video I think the track would really suite a front solid axle. When you have fixed the understeer it might be worth a try since it gives massive acceleration out of the hairpin bends.

Also which rear arb are you using?.
Tried the droop already but in a section of the track it was spinning very easily.

Re Rear Rollcenter thats ho i used to run but the split between the rear and the front was getting to close to 1mm in between. Thought of running front white springs in order to incline them a bit more, use a front 1.0 roll bar with new system and raise a bit the rollcenter from the upper links.

I also thought of trying fronts 35 and rear 42 in order to keep the split of 2mm. Whats your though of running 3 shores less can it be done?

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:50 PM   #1470
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Tried the droop already but in a section of the track it was spinning very easily.

Re Rear Rollcenter thats ho i used to run but the split between the rear and the front was getting to close to 1mm in between. Thought of running front white springs in order to incline them a bit more, use a front 1.0 roll bar with new system and raise a bit the rollcenter from the upper links.

I also thought of trying fronts 35 and rear 42 in order to keep the split of 2mm. Whats your though of running 3 shores less can it be done?

Thanks
I don't think remaining the tire split all the way through a final is very important. Pretty much every driver I know ends up with smaller rear tires at the end of a final.
For example at the start of the final I will have a 3mm split but at the end the tires are almost equal in size or sometimes the fronts are bigger even.
It will change the balance somewhat through the final but that's not a bad thing.

If you raise the front rollcentre you will have less steering. If you want more grip at the front by changing the rollcentre you will have to lower the upper wishbones.
The white springs are very soft, they might make the car a bit lazy, or the car might even bottom out during braking.
Because you say the car doesn't really react to setup changes at the front I really think the rear rollcentre is set too low.

In qualifiers I've ran 30 shore fronts and 37 rears in the past to get that extra amount of steering on a dirty track but I don't think it's a good solution. Basically you mask chassis setup issues by using such a big split in shores.
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