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Old 02-04-2012, 11:58 PM   #1396
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Lab c02. The rear diff bearing on the plastic seem to bind a little ??
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:43 AM   #1397
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A club member today had an issue with the rear dog bones on the c02 not being long enough and would cause a bind.
Is their a difference between the front and rear out drives/unis?
The issue was fixed by putting an o ring behind the dog bone on the diff side.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:16 AM   #1398
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Does anyone have a link to a setup for winter nats ? For the c02 I need the pinion gearing etc? Thanks
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:17 PM   #1399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
A club member today had an issue with the rear dog bones on the c02 not being long enough and would cause a bind.
Is their a difference between the front and rear out drives/unis?
The issue was fixed by putting an o ring behind the dog bone on the diff side.
That's what i did myself as i though it was too loose.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:25 PM   #1400
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Default Some light issue which needs fixing

Hey people, so what i have noticed is that the Cap Belts are very strong compared to other brands a +++

The only issue i have is that the rear (small) sidebelt gear is filling up in between teeth with dirt heavily. Thought of upgrading to an aluminium version anyone knows a compatible hop up from another car that fits or if maybe does it for the CAP?

Also i found that the turn-buckle plastic which basically connects the rear swaybar, steering pushrods and steering servo to ackerman get a lot of play to easily so i tried the WHITE version which they did a better work for a bit of more time but still all of a sudden to much play as much as the black version any ideas, my biggest worry is the rear sway bar since the play is not balanced so the sway bar won't work the same LEFT and RIGHT.

Thanks guys
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:37 PM   #1401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorge858 View Post
Lab c02. The rear diff bearing on the plastic seem to bind a little ??
Could you measure the diameter like this:


It should be 18.00mm if it's any bigger let me know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
A club member today had an issue with the rear dog bones on the c02 not being long enough and would cause a bind.
Is their a difference between the front and rear out drives/unis?
The issue was fixed by putting an o ring behind the dog bone on the diff side.
It's possible for the driveshaft to be a little short when you're running the car at maximum width and a small amount of offset.
When I run the car at max width and min offset I put an O-ring inside the diff outdrive to prevent the driveshaft from binding/falling out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by younghovaa View Post
Does anyone have a link to a setup for winter nats ? For the c02 I need the pinion gearing etc? Thanks
I think it's best to contact DJ Apolaro for such a setup. He's also on rctech and replies to his pm's pretty quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey people, so what i have noticed is that the Cap Belts are very strong compared to other brands a +++

The only issue i have is that the rear (small) sidebelt gear is filling up in between teeth with dirt heavily. Thought of upgrading to an aluminium version anyone knows a compatible hop up from another car that fits or if maybe does it for the CAP?

Also i found that the turn-buckle plastic which basically connects the rear swaybar, steering pushrods and steering servo to ackerman get a lot of play to easily so i tried the WHITE version which they did a better work for a bit of more time but still all of a sudden to much play as much as the black version any ideas, my biggest worry is the rear sway bar since the play is not balanced so the sway bar won't work the same LEFT and RIGHT.

Thanks guys
Which belts are you running, the long life ones or the low friction ones?. The low friction ones will keep the pulleys much cleaner. I don't even have to clean the pulleys when I use the kevlar ones and the low friction belts.
I wouldn't advice using an aluminum pulley since I'm not sure if they actually will stay cleaner. The problem with aluminum pulleys besides being heavier they sharpen during use which causes you to strip or snap belts very quickly.
I would rather clean the kevlar pulleys regularly then switch to aluminum pulleys.

After how much running do you replace the ball cups?. Mine last around a half season of racing which I think is really decent since I use more then 100 sets of tires a season.
I do clean them before every big race, so disassemble the ball and clean both the ball and the ball cup.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:57 PM   #1402
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Originally Posted by jorge858 View Post
Lab c02. The rear diff bearing on the plastic seem to bind a little ??
Could you measure the diameter like this:


It should be 18.00mm if it's any bigger let me know.
---------------------------------


they are 18.05 - 07 ?? Not much bigger.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:20 PM   #1403
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Does the old Front Anti Roll Bar 2.5mm work on the Lab C02?
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:38 AM   #1404
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Originally Posted by jjrctech View Post
Does the old Front Anti Roll Bar 2.5mm work on the Lab C02?
No! Check the manuals and you'll know why.

Kindest regards,
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:11 AM   #1405
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just cause there mugen dosent mean their misguided, mtx5 is just as good as the labc02 but not really . in no time at all mugen drivers will realise what a real tourer is just be patient hahaha
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:58 AM   #1406
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Default C02

I jus bought a c02, & wanted to know how much weight needs to be added? I'm gonna use standard HV servo w/ 2cell lipo.. Do I need heavier motor mout & brass battery tray or any thing else.. If guys are using weights that screw into the chassis can you post a link where I can order it from. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:18 AM   #1407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jorge858 View Post
Originally Posted by jorge858 View Post
Lab c02. The rear diff bearing on the plastic seem to bind a little ??
Could you measure the diameter like this:


It should be 18.00mm if it's any bigger let me know.
---------------------------------


they are 18.05 - 07 ?? Not much bigger.
It might be just enough to cause a little bit of binding. Check if the upper and lower rear bulkheads fit together without any gaps. If they need to be pushed together by the screws this will bind up the bearing.
If this is the case either contact your reseller for some new eccenters or sand the eccenter slightly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrctech View Post
Does the old Front Anti Roll Bar 2.5mm work on the Lab C02?
It's possible but every time you want to change it you will have to dis assemble the entire front end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by younghovaa View Post
I jus bought a c02, & wanted to know how much weight needs to be added? I'm gonna use standard HV servo w/ 2cell lipo.. Do I need heavier motor mout & brass battery tray or any thing else.. If guys are using weights that screw into the chassis can you post a link where I can order it from. Thanks
I guess it will come in around 1625-1650 depending on battery weight and servo type/brand.
The heavy motor mount and the brass battery tray should get you close to 1700. For balancing you can either get the Capricorn weights or the round Hudy ones.
Capricorn just released a round Tungsten weight.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:03 PM   #1408
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Could you measure the diameter like this:


It should be 18.00mm if it's any bigger let me know.



It's possible for the driveshaft to be a little short when you're running the car at maximum width and a small amount of offset.
When I run the car at max width and min offset I put an O-ring inside the diff outdrive to prevent the driveshaft from binding/falling out.



I think it's best to contact DJ Apolaro for such a setup. He's also on rctech and replies to his pm's pretty quickly.



Which belts are you running, the long life ones or the low friction ones?. The low friction ones will keep the pulleys much cleaner. I don't even have to clean the pulleys when I use the kevlar ones and the low friction belts.
I wouldn't advice using an aluminum pulley since I'm not sure if they actually will stay cleaner. The problem with aluminum pulleys besides being heavier they sharpen during use which causes you to strip or snap belts very quickly.
I would rather clean the kevlar pulleys regularly then switch to aluminum pulleys.

After how much running do you replace the ball cups?. Mine last around a half season of racing which I think is really decent since I use more then 100 sets of tires a season.
I do clean them before every big race, so disassemble the ball and clean both the ball and the ball cup.
I am using the stock belts but my rear gear is getting to filled up and it's just this gear the rest is very clean can't understand the reason. The white ball cups have their sixth outing and already there is to much play even though I clean them thoroughly. Just to be sure the ball has to be inserted from where its marked with a ring right?
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:12 PM   #1409
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Wheel Hex Hub Offset +0,75 - 2PCS what's the stock than and is it for rear or front?

New servo saver with a 13 Ackerman position, benefits?

Aluminium pillow balls hard coated is it worth investing?

Thanks guys
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:46 PM   #1410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Wheel Hex Hub Offset +0,75 - 2PCS what's the stock than and is it for rear or front?

New servo saver with a 13 Ackerman position, benefits?

Aluminium pillow balls hard coated is it worth investing?

Thanks guys
Use the metal pillow balls to get the CG low and out where the grip is.

We had to add:

Brass Engine mounts, brass battery plate, 20G brass weight on side just to make weight and used the metal balls on the hubs.
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