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Old 12-16-2011, 12:48 AM   #1261
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I also assumed the new sway bar would be in the kits.
I do know a lot of drivers still like the blade style arb so maybe that's why it's included.
The new wire stabi is very nice though, it will be super easy to change it without having to reset the tweak.

I advice to test the radio tray as provided in the kit, if you feel like you will need more steering or your track is very bumpy you can try cutting the radio tray.
I will build mine as standard and first thing I will test is the flex radio tray.

The springs provided are between the white and red springs in terms of stiffness. The original black springs might have been a bit too stiff for most tracks.
Mine are black coloured and feels like in between of reds and white as for stiffness.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:31 AM   #1262
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Not all the Capricorn option part are used to improve the performance of the model
Sometimes they are simply an alternative with different functionalities.
At first Capricorn thought to include the plate "FSS" in the kit but the tests carried out on the track, shown that the car was too aggressive and not suitable in all conditions.
We opted for the traditional plate, easier to drive even with the increase of the Lab's02 steering was significant
The Rush to the "optional part" is not a way of capricorn intended to make the customer to spend his money, because the thought of Capricorn is to offer the best you can do already with the kit box.
The new front bar is not only an improvement of the old but only a variant that has different behavior and will find 'its place in certain conditions
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:45 AM   #1263
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Originally Posted by CapricornRC View Post
Not all the Capricorn option part are used to improve the performance of the model
Sometimes they are simply an alternative with different functionalities.
At first Capricorn thought to include the plate "FSS" in the kit but the tests carried out on the track, shown that the car was too aggressive and not suitable in all conditions.
We opted for the traditional plate, easier to drive even with the increase of the Lab's02 steering was significant
The Rush to the "optional part" is not a way of capricorn intended to make the customer to spend his money, because the thought of Capricorn is to offer the best you can do already with the kit box.
The new front bar is not only an improvement of the old but only a variant that has different behavior and will find 'its place in certain conditions
Thanks for the answers, what about the springs how come softer?
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:43 AM   #1264
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Started the built and noticed that in the upper part as for front and rear it advises you to use the upper inner hole square eccentric numbered 1

In total you need 8 and in the kits there is only 4 of each eccentric number ?????

Please Help
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:54 AM   #1265
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Default Front anti roll-bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by CapricornRC View Post
Not all the Capricorn option part are used to improve the performance of the model
Sometimes they are simply an alternative with different functionalities.
At first Capricorn thought to include the plate "FSS" in the kit but the tests carried out on the track, shown that the car was too aggressive and not suitable in all conditions.
We opted for the traditional plate, easier to drive even with the increase of the Lab's02 steering was significant
The Rush to the "optional part" is not a way of capricorn intended to make the customer to spend his money, because the thought of Capricorn is to offer the best you can do already with the kit box.
The new front bar is not only an improvement of the old but only a variant that has different behavior and will find 'its place in certain conditions
Does the c02 comes with a wire or blade bar.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:07 AM   #1266
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Started the built and noticed that in the upper part as for front and rear it advises you to use the upper inner hole square eccentric numbered 1

In total you need 8 and in the kits there is only 4 of each eccentric number ?????

Please Help
You are right; there really needs to be 8 inserts to cover all setup options, but my kit only has 4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluer322 View Post
Does the c02 comes with a wire or blade bar.
My kit did not include the blade sway; and it would present a problem for those that have the Euros, as that version does not have a blade sway bar.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:58 PM   #1267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Started the built and noticed that in the upper part as for front and rear it advises you to use the upper inner hole square eccentric numbered 1

In total you need 8 and in the kits there is only 4 of each eccentric number ?????

Please Help
I would advice using the number 1 inserts with the hole in the highest and longest position in the front and the number 2 inserts with the hole in the lowest position in the rear.
I think this is a good starting setup regarding roll centre/camber rise.

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Does the c02 comes with a wire or blade bar.
It comes with the blade bar.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:15 PM   #1268
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I would advice using the number 1 inserts with the hole in the highest and longest position in the front and the number 2 inserts with the hole in the lowest position in the rear.
I think this is a good starting setup regarding roll centre/camber rise.



It comes with the blade bar.
HI DS for the front when you said that you would go for the highest and longest position you mean that the closest hole to the center of the chassis ( longest arm ) ?

Also wouldn't that be lowering the rollenter to its maximum and maybe reduce steering reaction?

Also can anyone explain to me whats the different in setup when using inner holes seup VS outer holes setup?

Thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:31 PM   #1269
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
HI DS for the front when you said that you would go for the highest and longest position you mean that the closest hole to the center of the chassis ( longest arm ) ?

Also wouldn't that be lowering the rollenter to its maximum and maybe reduce steering reaction?

Also can anyone explain to me whats the different in setup when using inner holes seup VS outer holes setup?

Thanks
Front Inner holes makes arm length equal to the CO1, moving the pins out will give you more camber gain. Rear outer holes are equal to CO1; and using inner holes reduces camber gain, gives better tire wear and and speed through flowing corners. Moving pins will obviously also change roll centers.

But it is not just a straightforward black and white statement that is true in every situation.You should download "XRAY NT1 Set-up Book (pdf) - English" from http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...2425c5e0119890 and Serpent setup guide from http://www.mediafire.com/?fjzzmzve5zz read up about it. Also print out the cheat sheets at the back of Serpent Guide and "XRAY NT1 Quick Reference Table" to take with you to the track for quick setup references.

Kindst regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 12-18-2011 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:45 AM   #1270
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Default 2nd Clutch Settings

Thanks Lars

whats is a good starting point for the second to kick in?

2.5 turns like the 801?
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:29 PM   #1271
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Thanks Lars

whats is a good starting point for the second to kick in?

2.5 turns like the 801?
Some 2 speed clutches seems to be a little different than others and need different settings; but 2.5 turns is usually a good starting point for a powerful engine and a fast track. Just test it by holding the car by the bar, run the engine to let it change gear about half a dozen times to the warm up the clutch and let it settle in, and then increase engine speed gradually so you can feel when it kicks in.

Kindest regards,
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:32 PM   #1272
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Great idea re: 2 speed.

RE Shocks 60 weight is way to much as our track is a bit bumby , normally everyone runs in the 40 weights section.

I was going to try more holes in the piston to get close to a 40 weight running 60 but, can't decide if i should go for 3 holes or 4 holes? Would 4 holes be to much?

Thanks
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:13 PM   #1273
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Thanks Lars

whats is a good starting point for the second to kick in?

2.5 turns like the 801?
I usually have the gearbox around 3 full turns out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Great idea re: 2 speed.

RE Shocks 60 weight is way to much as our track is a bit bumby , normally everyone runs in the 40 weights section.

I was going to try more holes in the piston to get close to a 40 weight running 60 but, can't decide if i should go for 3 holes or 4 holes? Would 4 holes be to much?

Thanks
I really like 3 holes with 550cst oil all around.
It gives a nice balanced combo for the damper/black spring.
If you track is really bumpy I would advice trying the 6 hole shocks with 1000cst oil. On a bumpy track a high number of piston holes combined with a thick oil works way better then a low number of holes and a thin oil.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:31 PM   #1274
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DS thanx for that email. Appreciate it
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:25 AM   #1275
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I usually have the gearbox around 3 full turns out.



I really like 3 holes with 550cst oil all around.
It gives a nice balanced combo for the damper/black spring.
If you track is really bumpy I would advice trying the 6 hole shocks with 1000cst oil. On a bumpy track a high number of piston holes combined with a thick oil works way better then a low number of holes and a thin oil.
Will give the 6 hole a try, re oil I will have to use diff oil than right as I never saw 1000 shock oil

Thanks
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