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Old 01-04-2011, 07:33 AM   #736
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Why do you bother giving out a "discount" code, when it only applies to normal priced items. Anything that has been "price lowered" on your site is not eligible (about 90% of your products listed on your site have been "price lowered").

For example, a brand new item you just released:

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340

How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
You are clever man... Thats marketing.
Just weight till all the prices go to normal, than use it.
It`s for free, as little as a dollar is ok, never complain about something that is free...
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:33 AM   #737
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Why do you bother giving out a "discount" code, when it only applies to normal priced items. Anything that has been "price lowered" on your site is not eligible (about 90% of your products listed on your site have been "price lowered").

For example, a brand new item you just released:

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=1340

How can the price be "lowered", it was never available.
Try to log out and sign in again.
the coupon discount is valid on EVERY items on the shop.

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Old 01-04-2011, 01:28 PM   #738
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Ok, thank you. It wasn't working yesterday, but I just checked it and all is good now
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:33 AM   #739
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Default Xray NT1 lightweight gear diff pins

Hello guys.

I saw Xray have now this NT1 lightweight gear diff pins.
How those compare to the ones on LAB-C01 kit, weight wise I mean?
NT1 and LAB have similar diffs, right?
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:38 AM   #740
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Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Hello guys.

I saw Xray have now this NT1 lightweight gear diff pins.
How those compare to the ones on LAB-C01 kit, weight wise I mean?
NT1 and LAB have similar diffs, right?
They are not as much use as you might think, if you look at the reflected inertia through the transmission, the gain you have is minimal.
Lets say you have a reduction from motor to diff off 6,
Then the reflected inertia is 6^2, so that makes 36....

So the gain you have in loss of inertia is only 1/36 off what most people think.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:42 AM   #741
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Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Hello guys.

I saw Xray have now this NT1 lightweight gear diff pins.
How those compare to the ones on LAB-C01 kit, weight wise I mean?
NT1 and LAB have similar diffs, right?
If I'm not mistaking the Lab comes with aluminum diff pins as standard.
So you wouldn't save any weight, the only difference is the hard coating on the Xray pins. They will fit if you want to try them, but if you ask me it would be a waste of money since you already have the lightweight parts as standard.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:44 AM   #742
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Ok, thankx for the input guys.

On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?

Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.

I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:37 AM   #743
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Default shock lenghts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Ok, thankx for the input guys.

On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?

Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.

I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
your shock lenghts are given as a guide , depending on your droop setting you might have to change your shock lenght. After you set your droop, when you put the bottom of your shock to the arm it should not move it. it is worse if the shock is too short then too long though.
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:00 PM   #744
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Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Ok, thankx for the input guys.

On another instance, what is the total leght you are using for the shocks?

Yesterday I got the car to handle very good, specially considering how dirt was the track.
But after some 5 tanks the ball end on both the front shocks came off the shaft, the shaft turned till it wasn't screwed to the ends anylonger. If you understand what I'm saying. I had 1mm shorter than the manual shows, was worried exactly about this happening, so I got some more turns in the screwing.

I am thinking about using longer parts there, what do you think?
Mine are 66.7mm in the front and 67.2mm in the rear.
However on the front shocks I use an Xray lower ballend since I ruined the original one. But I actually like the Xray ones better, as you can see these cover the entire thread of the shock shaft, were the rears are still exposed.

Fronts:

Rears:


But it's good to hear the car is handling like it should, if you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
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Old 01-11-2011, 06:16 AM   #745
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Yes, I think that screwing the original ones to be certain it won't come off, I will have a too short shock.

I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...

What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.

Thankx for the input guys.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:55 PM   #746
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Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Yes, I think that screwing the original ones to be certain it won't come off, I will have a too short shock.

I will try the ballends from a MTX4 I have, long ones...

What I really liked about this kit is the consistency and felling. Every change I did I could tell what was going on, the car keeps giving feedback easy to "read".
I have little experience, yet, but for me it was great.

Thankx for the input guys.
Mugen uses 6mm pivot balls, while Capricorn and X-Ray use 5.8 mm balls. You'll need to change to 6mm pivot balls if you use Mugen ball ends. Mugen and X-Ray ball ends, other ball linkages and top of shockie ball mounts are also harder and won't pop off that easy.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:54 PM   #747
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Default Diff or solid

Dj since u have a few races under your belt with the Cap what are u mainly running the diff or the solid? How does the car act different with the other?
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:03 PM   #748
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I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.

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Old 01-19-2011, 12:58 PM   #749
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Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.

DJ Apolaro
Thanks DJ.. Great to have your input
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:03 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
I have run the diff and Solid. I like the solid for tracks with a lot of bite or if the track is giving a little bit of over steer. I use the diff for all other applications. With the diff in the front I have been running the stock oils.
150k front and 70k rear. With the solid it has been 70k in the rear.

DJ Apolaro
Hi DJ,

What brand of diff oil and shock oil do you use??

I have found that there is some different between manufacturers...

For instance, a 50k Mugen is harder than 60k Xray...

Have you found similar results with different brands??
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