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Old 03-06-2013, 03:36 PM   #1981
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
Step 2 on turn in;

rear toe-in less try 1,5

just what nico said, forgot that, first less caster , all the shims in the rear.
sorry Nico its the other way to get turnin clips in the rear instead of front moves the upper arm to the front and this has less caster, more upright.

the front of cap use a brace, the cap is less firm there compared with the nt1, but it has a effect on high speed turns only and depends an the amout of bumpsteer you have.

Ohh thats right, remove any bump steer in and get bump steer out.

use one piece motormount

ackerman full. thats the links straight and nog angled, but thats with the nt1 with the cap look in the manual

front toe-out more , say 2mm

more weight in the rear of the car, weight balance rearward

Have fun with the try-out and remember settings always effect each other.
SO ONE AT A TIME, let the car handling grow on you, take your time to adjust to the car responceness. a twitchy car is scary at first untill you get used to it, then the speed will show

Show us some pictures of the car front and rear to look at the settings. Pictures are always nice.
ackerman full you mean to use the 13?
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:58 PM   #1982
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yes the 13.

i`ve seen on the thread that you`ve been having lots off advice by many.
i could tell you something on ride height but i think its too much info for you.
better to go step by step on the track preferably with fellow racers to guide you.

Haven fun, thats what its all about.
And your welcome for more advise if needed.
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:37 AM   #1983
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They all used an extra-ordinary super soft setup, there was so much traction that if they used "stiff and low" the cars would snap into traction rolls.

I'll ask our aussie team boss what they used and see if we can get some setups posted. Marc Rheinhard, Peter Jovanovic, and Tironi, will keep you posted.
Thanks for the response. True I may not ever run at those traction levels but the goal is to study the changes they make in conditions that they have. I am sure we all could learn something from their expierences

Thanks again
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:50 AM   #1984
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Originally Posted by djiewie View Post
yes the 13.

i`ve seen on the thread that you`ve been having lots off advice by many.
i could tell you something on ride height but i think its too much info for you.
better to go step by step on the track preferably with fellow racers to guide you.

Haven fun, thats what its all about.
And your welcome for more advise if needed.
What about the ride height as you got me curious

Saw some images from a friend of mine which was racing in italy and apparently some top CAP guy was running Reds springs on rear and white springs upfront. Was very surprised.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:32 AM   #1985
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Speed,

With ride height lower or higher you get more or less weight on it.
So its also a tune option.

Greetz
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:47 AM   #1986
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Speed,

With ride height lower or higher you get more or less weight on it.
So its also a tune option.

Greetz
Thanks DJ already use it to aid the steering, i run 1mm less up front
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:26 AM   #1987
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Very nice car, good pictures as well.
Man every time I see one, I really want one.
Too bad I bought a NT1 EC for this year.
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:27 AM   #1988
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Very nice car, good pictures as well.
Man every time I see one, I really want one.
Too bad I bought a NT1 EC for this year.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:04 AM   #1989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
Strangely I can't seem to find any setups from the recent worlds
Jilles, Reinhard etc zero zip zilch

Does anyone have any links
I'm 99% sure Jilles used the following setup, only difference will be the shock springs which were Ride EP springs, and the body, Jilles used a P37 in Thailand.

http://www.capricornrc.nl/ExportBest...ssino&Type=pdf

http://www.capricornrc.nl/downloads

But I don't think you will be using the Ride springs at any other track since the extreme amount of traction they had during the worlds. For a normal track the red springs work really well, and for a bit more steering you can use red rear springs on the front as well.
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:36 PM   #1990
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I've designed a receiver box for my car:




This one has been designed around the Sanwa RX-471 receiver and has been made to fit my version of the C02.

If you guys are interested I can come up with a version which fits the original C02 radiotray and a bigger variety of receivers.
The whole box will be 3D printed so I can even make different designs for different receivers. I will also incorporate a mount for the antenna.
Yes please Daan, one that's compatible for spektrum 3100 receivers which are a little bigger than sanwa's and futaba I think.

Dimensions (WxLxH): .85x1.30x.48(in) 21.6x33.1x12.35(mm)

So, I would like to have the receiver in the horzontal position to allow the wiring inside the box to connect top down.

I need two please for a standard C02
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:21 PM   #1991
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Almost done with my co2 wc.......changed the rear camber link! One off design
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:23 PM   #1992
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Another pic
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:27 PM   #1993
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Sorry don't kno how to put multiple pics on one post!
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:43 AM   #1994
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Can anyone confirm if the middle pulley shaft is the same as nt1? Or not
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #1995
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Default New chassis

any one tried the new chassis

http://www.capricornrc.com/capricorn...d_product=2031

some feedback please.
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